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gilloverland

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About gilloverland

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  • Location
    West Yorkshire

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  • Interests
    landrovers, landrovers, landrovers, beer, curry

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  1. Plenty to choose from on Alibaba, direct from the factory - just make sure its a trusted seller and pay by paypal or credit card to be safe.
  2. depending upon the year, the D2 transfer box may not have a diff lock.
  3. Yep it was! - I thought about machining the hub by a couple of mm to make clearance but if a wheel bearing ever failed the hub could hit the caliper and that could be disastrous! Luckily this was spotted after only the nearside was done so used new like for like parts instead.
  4. This is correct, Ive just tried it on my 1986 110 and the hub fouls the caliper
  5. Just to add that the vented discs and calipers upgrade doesnt fit early 110s - mine is ex military on a C reg and when I tried this the calipers foul on the hubs where the wheel studs go. Even if you ground a bit off, in the event of a wheel bearing failure the hub would hit the caliper with disasterous consequences. I just thought id update this thread as its one of the first on google search.
  6. Bearmach have a new range of gas shocks which come with a 3 year guarantee. They look very well made (possibly re-badges Monroe's who also happen to make OME shocks). I can't tell you what they ride like yet though - fitting them is next week's job.The Bearmach blue springs are also pretty good but to get a comfortable ride you need to be carrying weight as the spring rates are quite high. For springs have you considered genuine HD? A lift kit in itself doesn't guarantee better load carrying capacity, for that you need details such as the spring rates and free lengths. I would avoid Terrafirma, I had one of their lift kits on my old D2, the springs sagged within 6 months and the powder coating is really poor. The shocks seemed ok though.
  7. Lovely job and fantastic write-up. Are you gonna use a running-in oil?
  8. Oil was changed about 10000 miles ago. Its an ashcroft HDTC thats just over a year old...
  9. Unfortunatly I haven't had chance to, Im just going on the fact that there are no leaks...
  10. thought I would list the sympoms here and to see if anyone recognised them... First thing I noticed last Thursday was a tiny bit of a judder when parking at low speed but then it went away and didn't come back (or at least I didn't notice it). Then Friday afternoon whilst driving along I stopped at a set of traffic lights and when starting again it took a lot of rev's (like clutch slip on a manual) As it got rolling it seemed to changed up a couple of gears and I managed to turn around and get home (it was only half a mile). At idle there is a noticeable 'chatter' from the transmission area. I've had a good look underneath (though haven't had time to remove the inspection plate) and there is no evidence of a fluid leak. This morning I started it up and tried it in D and R (transmission cold) and it wanted to move off in either direction at tick over, it would not do this on Friday after the initial failure. Has anyone experienced this before, at first I thought it was either a fluid leak or a clutch pack gone but the fact that it wants to move off when cold (along with the rattle / chatter) has got me thinking its a broken flex plate which when cold is somehow giving more drive? I think I have sourced a second hand gearbox but I because of my shifts I am unable to collect it until after xmas. Ashcrofts said they couldn't supply one until after the 9th of January! Any ideas?
  11. I'm thinking about fitting an electric winch to my td5 discovery. Is there any issues to be aware of with the td5's engine management whilst a winch is drawing such huge currents? I would like to hear your experiences, good or bad...
  12. Never heard of moving the rams, as I understand it you use D2 front droplinks on the back and then D3 droplinks on the front (all of which are longer than standard) so as not to destroy the droplinks.
  13. There is no flasher unit on a TD5 discovery, the flash is controlled by a micro chip within the BCU.
  14. I doubt it will be the ECU if it has worked after the wading, especially for 70 miles as this is more than enough time for it to 'dry out' Inside the metal box the electricals are coated with some sort of varnish. All the ones I have seen that have died during wading have serious damage to the capacitors that fire the injectors. I would suggest the most likely candidate is the crank position sensor or it's conector. I'm not sure how to test one and they aren't cheap (though cheaper than an ECU). You need to find someone local to you who has a nanocom. Have a look on the D2boysclub forum...
  15. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WARN-M8274-WINCH-12V-OFF-ROAD-4X4-FUN-NEW-IN-BOX-/280917077144?pt=UK_Recovery_Tools&hash=item4167f66c98
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