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Thanks for that Les. I had just found that part number on Paddocks site but was not sure if it was what I needed.

I'm at the same job on a 1999 defender td5 110 but the swivel housing itself is pitted and needs to be replaced can you help me with a part number please. I found frc7065p but I'm not sure this is for a 300 tdi or my td5

That looks like a winner, Thanks I'll look into them.

Thanks for all the advice lads I've somewhere to start now.

I would like to know how much work or money it would take to fit a P.T.O to a standard td5 110 hard top, only to drive a timber spliter? It may be more than buying a small tractor any ideas?

Thanks for the replies lads and Ill update my profile straight away. I will stick a big tractor battery in it tommorow but it starts now no problem as the weather has gotten milder so how will I know if thats the problem or not. The battery has never let me down yet but I think it is the orginal one so proberly at the end of its life.

Thanks Sean for the reply. It turns over fine and I drained the battery this morning tring to start it. I took it out and put it on charge for a few hours and at about 4 oclock today it started first time. MIL? if thats the heater light then yeah that works, it stays on for abour 20 seconds and then I turn it over when its very cold it takes a bit longer to fire though. A nanocom means main dealers for me I'm afraid. So it started no problem when it was 7 or 8 degrees warmer and a fresh charged battery, does this mean thats its hardly a sensor problem?

This is the first time it has refused to start for me in the three years I have owned it . It is a 1999 110 and the fuel line (injectors pump and filters ) is in good order and it has a half a tank of fuel. I think because it was pretty cold this morning that the glow plugs may be the problem although its been much colder over the past month and it always started all be it a little slower than normal. Can anybody tell me what I must remove to get to the glow plugs and what the new ones should be tightened to, thanks

GL5 is fine in the diffs.

I have searched every where for an answer as to when they stoped putting the brass parts in the LT230 boxs, but got no definate answer so I use GL4 on my 1999 td5'

Cheers Nas90 was'nt sure but that's a good guide

I doubt there is any thing wrong then as this is normal starting pocedure on a td5. They will start however without doind this usually but it puts more strain on the starting motor and battery and as you have said with this cold spell the transfer box oil will be thicker thus preventing your engine from firing up. How often do you change the oil in the gearbox ,transfer box and diffs? I do it once a year but I'm not sure if this is to often or to little.

I always press the clutch to the floor and and don't touch the accelerator when starting my td5. If you do the same could you have clutch problems?

Yeah transfer box problem, I think. Change the oil first use ep90-gl4 not gl5 and it may solve the problem.

As far as I know gl4 is the correct spec oil for your transfer box. The older boxes had brass or bronze (not sure which) parts in them which gl5 oil reacts with and causes them to fail. Its fine in the diffs though.

Thanks Gazelle thats a big help, dont know why but when I did a search this did not come up.

I would like to know where you draw the power from and how much it takes to run?

Thanks for the link Sean its better than any Iv seen on Ebay. I often have a trailer of timber behind me and no wing mirror is going to let me see how thats behaving after miles of country roads.

HMMM trailer camera Cheers Ill try and find it.

Thats right and if the wife reads this I got no chance.

Im sure you dont Mike but the station wagon has more glass than a greenhouse where as the hardtop is like driving with blinkers on even with the rear view mirror.

Thanks for the reply, I have seen a few with the perspex in and I just dont like how they turned out. Iv done a search but failed to find any thread about this so far.

Im thinking about closing off the back of my 110 hardtop before the winter so it will be faster to heat the cab and it should make it a little quiter also. The only draw back that I can see is the rear view mirror will be usless then. So Im considering getting a rear view camera and monitor, there are hundreds of different kinds on ebay and I like the ones where the monitor clips over the mirror. Has anyone any advice on what to get or what to avoid? Any help or advice appreciated thanks.

Thanke Aragorn, a lot of info there. Ill see how good that charge wire is.

Thats the thing I will never have them all on at once and I dont have a heated rear screen air con or heated seats, its like a fridge in the back espcialy in Winter. So Id say 65 maybe 80 amps max at once and not often, from a 120 amp alternator. Is that safe? Banana republic search lights? Your putting me off the idea of the light bar now.