oap

Thanks Diff its coming off tommorow then.

I need to change the pinion seal on the front diff of my 110 td5 and after a couple of hours taking off the propshaft and draining the diff i'm stuck at the pinion nut (bolt). I spent half an hour or so this evening trying to move it and I gave up when it got dark. Its 15mm and I wonder if its left hand thread? or maybe I just need a bigger prybar? Thanks for any advice.

Sorry, I thought your first post was suggesting that it had to go through neutral to click the difflock on or off, my mistake.

Thats true, possible yes, feasible no, (for me anyway)

It sure is, I cant post a link but do a search on ebay for td5 rev counter and you will find plenty. They plug into the ECU under the drivers seat (not the alternator, pin 19 I think.

Well thats wrong because you dont need to go through netural to select difflock, so its more like a B than an H

Most lightly the linkage needs adjusting and if the light on the dash is not working you will have no way of knowing if the diff is locked or not. Its not worth taking the chance and maybe wrecking your transmission on the way home. The linkage is handy enough to work on just have to spend some time taking the center tunnel out.

You are correct more than lightly. The amount of oil is nothing to worry about but its not going to get any better just worse. Make sure to replace the slave cylinder at the same time as its sure to fail shortly after the master cylinder. You could just keep toping up cluch fluid but then there is always the risk of getting stranded somewhere with no clutch when it lets go completly.

As far as I know if its earlier than 07 fit what ever bullbar you like, but newer than this and you could have some problems. I think.

I put a camera on mine and the monitor clips over the rear view mirror. The parts cost about £100 and it took me a day to sort out all the wiring but Im very pleased with it. I have driven cars with parking sensors but they cant compare with a rear view camera.

Exactly the technique I'm getting tired of.

I'd like to do the same on my 110 hardtop, sometimes the passanger window gets steamed up in wet weather making that wing mirror usless and its impossable to lean across the cubby box to wipe it while driving.

[quote name='errol209' date='03 July 2010 - 04:41 PM Les' method with the arm still on the box would mean tapping the insert out from the bottom upwards, I can see why you're struggling. Well that explains why I failed to shift one last month, I even bent the g-clamp (a good quality one )before I gave up and left it in there but replaced every thing else.

Yeah its proberly the problem at least it was on mine. Its not a big job though, half an hour maybe but the switch was expensive from Landrover.

Job done it was just a matter of adjusting the push rod and pedal travel as Westeren said. Thank God thats finished and thank you for all the help.

Cheers Sean I'll give it another go tommorow and pm sent

I,ll be down at the scrap yard Monday spending more money then

Thanks for the help Western and no I did not follow that guide I just copyed the distance to the nuts on the old cylinder. I have printed that guide out just now and will follow it tommorow. The spring that pulls the pedal up is missing on mine also. Thanks again bet thats the problem I presume this can be done without taking the pedal assembly out again? Les I'd the last 50mm of travel has some pressure on it after I'd spent 15 minutes bleeding it

I've just spent the last 4 hours replacing the master cylinder and now I've no clutch. It was fine before I started just the fluid running down the pedal. Maybe I've not blead it properly I used a one way valve thing from Halfords that may be faulty (poor work men always blame there tools). If I press the pedal right to the floor I can just manage to get all forward gears but not reverse. Any ideas?

Like Western said that will be the master cylinder. I got one from Paddocks in the post today and hope to fit it Saturday, I've have not done this job before but there is a good guide on how its done here in the tech help section and if you don't have a go you will never learn.

Cheers Western your a star

Can anyone tell me if its the same as on the "tech guides" or different?

You got that right I replaced the slave cylinder at the end of January

I'm about to replace one on my 110 and as its a td5 I just need to know if I follow the same method thats in the "tech help guides". Les Henson does both a 2.5 n/a and 300 tdi on them but the master cylinder on mine has a few more wires coming from it, so do I just disconnect them and follow the guides? Thanks for any advice OAP

Wont the ply be to thick to let you close the door? I have done this myself but with 3mm hard board covered it black fake leather. It does the job but it still takes a good shove to close it.