jetmorgan

Well my Discovery will be going into the garage tomorrow for a look at the blowing exhaust and seeing what needs to be fixed, I have soot deposits at the join between the centre box and the catalytic convertor and I'm just hoping it's not a new cat section that is needed as the centre section was only replaced last year. The engine misfiring has now been sorted out, corroded HT lead and dampness in the distributor cap so they and the spark plugs have all been replaced. But I have an oil leak on the engine, in fact I completely ran out of oil at some point and it had been running on nothing for god knows how long. I had the engine flushed out completely and new oil with filters. But I have a leak that seems to be somewhere at the front of the engine, and at the top as it's oily at the very front of the engine and nowhere else. I have noticed the gasket under the rocker covers are damp with oil so I'm guessing that this might be the problem so at some point I will get the gaskets changed but while I'm getting that done are there any other common oil leak areas on the 3.9 V8i ??? so I can get them done at the same time. I have no idea if the garage took the sump off and replaced the gasket there during the oil flush as there is no mention on the bill about a replacement sump gasket. Car is a 1998 Discovery1 V8i ES......and still lots more jobs to get done before the next MOT comes up in December

I've discovered on my Discovery that the hoses on the wash wipe system have started to perish so all I can clean at the moment is the inside of the near side head lamp mount. I need to replace the hoses and I will also take the opportunity to replace the headlamp washers as well they haven't worked since i bought the car. It looks like they have actually been disconnected. I've been trying to find a diagram of the system so I can figure out what other parts I might need. Does anyone have a diagram they could post or email me. I have a pair of new aftermarket headlamp washer jets on order with Rimmer Bros and 10 metres of hosepipe but just need to find out if I need any Tee's or anything else. Oh and before anyone suggest googling it I have already done so and found a very small picture of the system that I can only just see with my eyesight and is all in Russian!!!

Can anyone help with possible causes of an intermittant starting problem I have on my S reg 1998 Discovery 1 3.9V8 ES. It has decided, when it feels like it, to not want to turn over when i try and start her....absolutely nothing...not even a crank over in sight. However the electrics all work perfectly fine. It's only done it 3 times since I got her in July...the first time I had left her in gear, so that was easily solved. The second and third times were when parked in the local Waitrose car park, unlock the car after a quick bit of shopping, turn the key and the electrics all come on but no engine. Check to see if it's in gear and no she's in park but still no engine...tried locking then unlocking and still nothing. Eventually both times I had to wait around for a while and she decided that she was going to restart...one time when the recovery man turned up and asked to see what the problem was. I had only driven about a mile from my work to the shop and she doesn't do it all the time. I presume there is some electical problems somewhere but don't really know where to start so I'm looking for a list that I can work through or I can get the local spanner man to have a look at. Or is it a case that the engine might be just starting to get a bit warm and then when I swtich off an engine temp sensor thinks the engine is over heating so won't start. I know it's probably like asking how long a piece of string is.

After collecting my Discovery 1 V8i ES last weekend I'm starting to put together a niggle list so I can then make a priority list of jobs to get done in the near future and the far future. Like all other Discovery's my girl suffered the usual sunroof leaks and the previous owner taped up the sunroof and replaced the headlining. I'm having thinks about getting the sunroofs sorted and working again but I think the previous owner put the wrong headlining in. Am I right in thinking that the ES model, as top of the range, came with electric sunroofs front and back and not windy handle ones??? Is it a simple matter of taking out the windy handles and replacing them with the electric buttons or will I need a complete new headlining??? Looking at forums and youtube the common fault with leaking sunroofs is where the water gather around the seal and drips through the channel before heading down a tube to the rain water gutter.

Well after saying goodbye to my old 200TDi Defender I have now joined the Discovery family and just purchased a 1998 Discovery 1 V8i ES. It seems a bit of a gift horse at the moment although there are a few issues I'd like to sort out. One of them being the drivers seat. I don't know what one of the previous owners spilt in his lap but it's given a stain on the leather. I'm hoping that a lot of leather cleaner and elbow grease will sort it out but if not then I'd like to retrim it but browsing and search on tint-er-net has brought up bugger all. I know Exmoor trim do re-trim kits but not for the later seats with headrest. Is there anyone out there who does do a DIY re-trim kit??? Once that is done I can look at getting the leaking sunroof sorted out...then the exhaust centre silencer, electric seat buttons, air con, intermittant cruise control and the tyre sizes sorted out.

While doing other jobs to refurbish my 1990 110 200Tdi Defender, I've been having a look at the seat box compartments. The one under the drivers seat is rusting away quicker than an Alfa Sud so will need replacement, I was going to just do a like for like replacement but as it is a smaller box than the battery box is it possible to get a larger version for more storage space? The battery box is fine, no real signs of corrosion however it does have 3 large holes that were for wiring grommets. There is no wiring going through these holes so I want to blank them off, with all this rain and flooding I tend to find a puddle of water sitting in the bottom. I'm struggling to find a supplier of the right size...done internet searches etc etc...even looked on the Halfords website, so can anyone suggest a supplier of the right size 35/36mm rubber blanking plugs

How old is the vehicle? My 1990 Defender thumps and bumps over the road which it has done ever since I bought it 14 years ago and I think it's still on it's original shocks and springs, with the exception of one shock. Don't forget that with the condition of todays roads you'll get a sudden drop when going over drain covers that have sunk or where the tarmac is falling apart. Does the steering feel a bit more vague than it used to, or the vehicle feel like it's wandering about the road? I found that when one of my rear shocks went you could just start to feel the car steering a little bit to one side.

I'm in the process of replacing the doors on my 1991 200 Tdi Defender. I have some donor doors from another LR Forum member and I was in the process of removing the push button door handles to replace the locks but 2 of the screw fixings have bust and I've had to drill them out. I'm going to replace them with new handles now but I see there are 2 different versions listed on Paddocks & John Craddocks website part no's MXC7651 & 7652 for chassis nos to 1A622423. And CXB500200PMA & 210PMA from 2A622424. I don't know what age the donor doors are...is there much of a difference between the 2 types and can I fit one of the later door handles to an older door?

Like a lot of people here I'd recommend the Co-Op or NFU, I've found the NFU a bit pricey but they'll be used to insuring all sorts of Land Rovers and I'm currently with the Co-Op and still one of the cheapest around after 3 years. One thing with the Co-op is if you also join their membership scheme you can get paid dividends twice a year depending on how much money you spend with them in the year Frankly I wouldn't give Tesco's the time of day...I always feel soiled and degraded when I've been forced to use the local Tesco Express so I'm certainly not giving them money for insurance every month. As they are bent on world domination I'm suprised their logo isn't a man in a swivel seat stroking a white cat!!!

Good for blow drying the hair after a morning shower though

This is a bit off topic but does relate to my 110 Defender Tdi As is common on most Defenders the bottom of my doors is rusting away...just held together by the paint at the moment. I have new bits of steel to weld in to fix the problem and give me a new door frame but it'll require the removal of the door for a few days. So is it legal or illegal to drive the vehicle with the drivers side door missing...I'll still have 2 rear view mirrors, cab and near side mirror...seat belts will be in place and working. I often see UPS vans around here that have sliding drivers doors with that wide open...although not at this time of year obviously!!!

I have exactly the same problem and I know that is the elastic band that goes round the alternator. I know it's loose as the alternator is only held on by the bolt on the adjustment bracket at the moment, and as you describe when you put your foot down and the engine speeds up the noise gets worse. Also the belt as a few teeth missing so is will be replaced when I get the new alternator mounting bracket

You know I thought I felt and earthquake the other night...now I know!!!

Yes I've had the same problem, it was fine one day then no access the next This website was given to me by a member which I've found really useful for part no's and diagrams http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover

Many thanks for that link...just what I've been looking for

It's the seal around the inspection plate on the rear of the diff with the filler plug in it

Looking for the part no's for a full set of exhaust brackets and fixings for replacement on my 1990 200Tdi 110 Defender. I'm replacing the whole exhaust but I'm having difficulty finding the correct brackets as most parts websites don't have pictures of them so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I've tried the numcat.ru website but I keep getting a 502 bad gateway message coming up so there is some problem with the internet link somewhere

I recently had the seal replaced on the rear diff pan on my 1990 110 Defender Tdi and it's now developed a squeak when I'm in reverse. It seems to drive perfectly fine in reverse, just as the wheels rotate I get an...eeekkk!!! Like a mouse has taken up residence and gets it's tail pinched in the cogs. Driving forwards is perfectly fine, the garage that replaced it for me said they couldn't see anything out of the ordinary, only that the seal had a split in it so had to put a blob of sealant on the seal. Any ideas what the potential problem might be...problem with the diff...wheel bearing???????

I was investigating why my battery warning light was giving a faint glow. I thought it was just a case the adjusting bolt had worked a bit loose so the alternator had slipped and lossen the belt...However it was a bit more of a problem than that. I found that the bolts holding the alternator to it's mounting bracket have both sheared so the alternator is being held on by the adjuster strap and bolt only. I had a new alternator fitted earlier this year so I can only guess the garage used new bolts or the old bolts. Is there any way of doing a temporary fix that will hold the alernator in place and take some of the strain off the adjuster strap so that doesn't break as well? Is there anywhere that sells the mounting bracket (ETC8854), I've tried several websites, Paddocks, John Craddocks, Mailorder 4x4. Or will I have to try to find someone who is breaking a 200tdi engine to get the part. I'm ordering a bolt/stud extractor set in an effort to get the bolt remains out. I need to get the work done myself as I can't afford anymore garage bills.

Just had delivered a new rear section of exhaust for my 1990 Defender 110 (part ESR359) and to save a bit of money I want to fit it myself rather than give it to my local garage. Never having fitted any part of exhaust pipe myself do I need to have any gasket between the join of the rear and center sections? or is it just safe to use some of the exhaust sealing putty (Dum dum or whatever it's called) I have read on a VW car website about painting the exhaust to make it last longer...as mine is a standard steel Britpart part is painting it an option and any ideas what sort of paint?

Many thanks for all your replies...I had looked at that numcat.ru website but it was a bit confusiong when I started cross checking the part numbers on suppliers websites, they didn't seem to match my vehicle...however found out that they cost £181...A SIDE!!! so I'll stick with the ones I've got and clean them up and give them several coats of paint...having difficulty locating a supplier of that 3M stuff near me...would waxoyl be a fine alternative???

While renewing the side and indicator lights on my Defender I noticed the wheel arch liners are suffering from rust so worst case I'm looking to replace the wheel arch liners on my but I'm struggling to find the right part number so I can work out how much they'll be. I have a 1990 200TDI Defender...no air con & chassis number starting HA??? I've looked at the www.numcat.ru website which has given me lots of numbers but none seem to be relevant. Best case I'm hoping just to pull them off give them a good clean up and give them a coat of paint...is just a couple of coats of hammerite smooth black fine for that???

Having a good lokk at the undersides of my 110 200TDi and the rear bump stops are now non existant....it looks like the bracket has mostly rotted. It was mentioned as an advisory on the MOT last year. I've bought new bump stops for the rear as well as front, but as it looks like the bracket that holds the rear bump stops has gone is there anyway that I can fix the bump stops on, that will get it past the MOT without resorting to getting new brackets and paying a man to weld them on as I don't have the money for that just at the moment.

I purchase a new Britpart Supergaz steering damper a few months ago and just got around to fixing this easter weekend. However the flange part of the polybush that was fitted into the loop at the end that fits onto the bracket the connects to the steering rods and drop arm ball joint, seemed to be brittle and broke away from one side. the opposite side appeared fine as did the poly in the centre where the bolt goes through. It's all fitted fine and everything drives okay. I know Britpart has a bit of a reputation with quality, is this something I need to definately replace with a new one soon or is it something I can just keep a general eye on until I feel that there's something not quite right.

Many thanks for the advice davyd & farmerboy, thats just the advice I wanted. As soon as I get paid I'll get the bits ordered and get the job done, it all looks pretty simple which is just what an engine novice like me needs. I will leave the tappits though as A) I don't have any feeler gauges & B) Wouldn't really know what I'd be looking at or doing so don't want to bugger the engine after I've spent £800 odd quid getting the front suspension sorted, a bit of welding to get past the MOT and a replacement UJ. I'll have a go at the tappits when I have more confidence