StreetDragster

I have a spare, if you cover postage i'll send it down to you first thing monday gratis? BTW i fitted a bigger battery in my Disco, and fabricated a battery strap in no more than 10 mins from a bit of steel from B+Q Thanks Matt

Thanks for all suggestions, i'll get under the car and have a look this week at the diff, do the prop disconnect test, and probably order the bearing for replacement next weekend Cheers Matt

Roger that, thanks very much i'll try and do that test this week Thanks Matt

Thanks Les, Any pointers on how i test the rear diff bearings for wear? Are they replaceable in situ? Thanks Matt

Hi All, Right, the other week i had a wheel bearing fail on me, the rear drivers side on my 300tdi manual disco. So i replaced it happily with timkin one and all is well. Just before an offroad day at the weekend, i checked all the wheels for play and noticed a bit too much movement in the rear passenger side bearing. So i nipped up the nut a little bit to take up the slack, re-greased the bearing, re-assembled and happily went off to the off road day. All was well, but on the way home after maybe 70 motorway miles a noise from the rear became apparent, distinctly similar to the sound i heard when the other wheel bearing failed, but on the other side. So when we get home, i jacked up all four wheels and gave them a spin and a rock, there was no play in any wheel, and no nasty noises as the wheel turned by hand. So, is it likely that the wheel bearing is failing, running on a bad bearing seat or something, but i just can't hear it at the low rpm's you get when turning a wheel by hand? I'm preparing to change it anyway as its not expensive and relatively straight forward to do, just wondered if anyone had experianced anything similar? Thanks Matt

Now i had something similar on an old fiesta, everything pointed to the starting system, i changed batteries, starter motors, wiring etc and it still wouldn't start properly Until a friend of mine put a spanner on the crank and tried turning it by hand, and it was super tight, turned out a piston ring had wedged in the bore. I would try and turn your engine over by hand just to check its free and easy to turn Thanks Matt

Well i repaired my wheel bearing today, i would say its a contributing factor, its much better now, but still a slight pull to the right. Next stop is to check all the bushes and bearings, i'm not convinced its anything to do with the brakes at all. Thanks Matt

Which way you pulling the lever? On my non EDC 300TDi, upwards (which for my car was the wrong way) was around 1/2" travel, but down and towards the engine was a full sweep and i could feel the fuel pumping Thanks Matt

Well after going to 4 different garages, i'm utterly annoyed, "its 4x4 it can't go on the roller" was the plain blank responce, they didn't listen to me when i said you can neutral the drive fromt he transfer box, it has an open front/rear diff anyway, and even when i took it with the rear prop removed (for something else BTW) they weren't interested. Frustrating , However, i have discovered my rear drivers side wheel bearing is knackered, very noisey on rotation but no additional play when jacked up, i'm about to fix it this weekend, whats the chances this is causing my braking problem? Thanks Matt

The further you wind it out, the less steering lock you will have. All that happens is the head of the bolt contacts the hub, so the bolt being further out, means the head will contact earlier and steering lock will be reduced. Thanks Matt

It was actually a little steeper than the picture suggests due to my mrs being stood on the incline when taking the photo, but it was great fun. Taken at www.hillnditch4x4.co.uk incase your wondering Thanks Matt

I sellotaped a spacer (a highlighter pen in this case which was the correct ~10mm thickness) to the radius arm and then turned the steerign to contact it, adjusted the lock stop on the other side and then swapped over, done in one swift go. Matt

Perfect thanks, should isolate whether i have a brake, or a suspension/other problem here becuase i'm just not getting anywhere investigating these calipers Thanks Matt

Hi All Quick Question If i go to an MOT place, put the cars transfer box in neutral, can i use their brake test rollers to confirm brake efficiency on each axle without damaging anything? Thanks Matt

Hi All, Going to check/change my swivel oil at the weekend, a friend with a defender pointed me towards one shot grease and suggested i asked the following question.... Is there any reason why i couldn't/shouldn't put one shot grease in the swivels for lubrication instead of oil on a 300TDI Discovery 1? Thanks Matt

Perfect lads, thanks very much Matt

Hi All Looking to replace the oil seal at the front of my transfer box, behind the flange which mates to the front prop shaft. It this a simple job? Any tips? I've done the rear diff pinion seal already, so i'm just wondering if its similar, do i have any spigots to pull out etc? Also, how do i check a universal joint for wear? Give it a waggle and look for play? Thanks Matt 1995 Discovery 1 300TDi 5 door Manual

Cheers Les, I've checked all four of the brakes after some repeated braking and they all appear to be the same temp, i've got an infra red thermometer which i'm going to use next just to confirm they are all equal in temp, i'm pretty sure its not the brake calipers, hence this post, as i cannot think of much that would occur under braking, but not under general driving. I'm wondering if its maybe oil/grease contamination of the left hand disc, as i have some greasy resdiue on the wheels, whcih i suspect is fromt he bearing/swivel. I degreased the disc down at the weekend and its made no difference, although it may be in the pad. I was considering swapping the disc/pads from left to right, and then seeing if the problem moves to pulling to the other side, good idea? Oh, and it has no anti roll bars either

Hi All, 1995 300TDi Discovery 5 door, has started to pull to the right under braking, i'm quite new to landrover ownership and all the bushes, bearings etc this thing has, has over whelmed me, can you give me an idea of what to check, how, and in what order. So far, i'm pretty sure that the calipers aren't binding, after some repeated braking, i hope out and check the temp of the alloy wheels with my hand, all seem to be the same temp. The car drives ok in normal [none braking] driving, maybe a touch vague but this may be normal for a landrover, its the first 4x4 i've ever had. The car has 2" extended dampers and springs, and Insa turbo tyres. Any advice is massively appreciated Thanks Matt

I couldn't get a really good look at it, but from what i could see, and what i felt, i think it still has the anti tamper coller on it so i assume its remained at its stock setting. I will have another look though after what you said. The cars got 130k on the clock, so no doubt something is worn and a contributing factor, but the closer to perfect the better Thanks Matt

Hi All Again, Right i think i'm just about there with my diesel pump adjustments, so here's what i have done to 'detune' my car and get rid of the smoke, for those of you that turn up the pump, do these adjustments sound about right for what you would have to do to reverse the tuning? I'm getting virtually no smoke from the car most of the time, medium amounts if you set off in the wrong gear, such as 3rd on a 2nd gear road, and a light haze at full throttle acceleration. Its probably a touch lean but i think (hope!) thats ok for a diesel pump. Smoke Screw 1.5 Turns (540 degrees) Anti Clockwise [Might Go To 2 Turns yet] Diaphram Originally set to the 19:30 position on a clock face, 75% of its full travel. I reduced this to the 18:00 position, 50% of its full travel, in line with the scores from the assumed 'standard' setting Star Wheel 1 Turn (360 Degrees) Anti Clockwise Thanks Matt

Thanks for that, just so i know that i'm not killing the engine by overleaning it and burning out valves! Cheers Matt

Hi All, Think i have managed to dial in my cars diesel pump now, but i have two questions if anyone can help me out... 1) It still smoke excessively, but only in the condition that you have, for example, pulled out onto a 2 nd gear road, and you leave it in third, lots and lots of smoke. Obviously being int he right gear will cure this, but i just wondered if theres any adjustments that could improve this situation, because we all do it occasionally! 2) What happens if i 'over lean' off the pump? I know on a petrol car lean is a massive bad thing, but a friend tells me that you cannot lean off a diesel pump too much and do damage, not sure whether i should believe him? Thanks Matt

http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/trimarches/index.html ?? Thanks Matt

Apologises for the probably obvious question, but what do you do with the 'big bit of metal/structure' after you have cut the arch off the door? Do that intrude on the tyre or anything? Looking at my discovery i can't quite make it out what it is (as i obvious have an arch skin in the way) Thanks Matt