Don Del
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Posts posted by Don Del
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I have been following this thread with great interest. I have a V8 Defender 110 SW and live in La Paz, Bolivia, which is at a bit over 11,000 feet above sea level and have been thinking off and on about fitting a tubular exhaust manifold to get a bit more mid-range oomph. However when you add on another 120% to the UK purchase price to cover freight and customs it comes to a very expensive bit of extra oomph even not having to pay VAT! The RRC/Disco 1 option would be possible here as I am fairly sure that I can find some used manifolds quite easily. The other option I have is to have some 4-2-1 tubular headers fabricated, albeit in mid steel. Exhaust system corrosion not being a big issue here with the lack of oxygen in the air and the non use of salt on the roads. There is a garage locally that is capable of turning out virtually any type of exhaust system you care to mention, with the exception of inclucing a catalytic converter, as long as you can provide a pattern or a design. To this end I was wondering if anybody could provide me with the various diameters and header lengths for a 4-2-1 system.
Cheers,
Del
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Yes, heat will make them reshape, gently warm them making sure not to focus on one spot... ABS ( which is what mine are made from) has a bit of a memory so it should reform.
cheers,
mike
Thanks for the input. I will give it a go and keep my fingers crossed!
Cheers,
Del
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Two of the eyebrows on my Defender are looking decidedly sad! They have lost some of their convex profile and I was wondering whether or not it is possible to rejuvenate them by using a hot air gun or even a hair dryer to coax them back to something approximating their original shape. Any suggestions welcomed (other than the obvious one of buying replacements which is a bit difficult in Bolivia!).
Cheers,
Del
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Hi,
I have a 1999 Defender V8 110 station wagon, it is essentally a Td5 with a V8 dropped in for export. It is due for a change of oils in the drive train and I have been checking as to the oils I should get. The gearbox and transfer case are sraightforward with Texaco MTF94 and Castrol Syntrax 75W/90 respectively. I could go with Hypoid gear oil for the axles but I have seen a recommendation on this site to use Syntrax instead. Any comments welcome!
Cheers,
Del
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Thanks for the input. The oil is not red so it looks as though it is the seal on the input to the transfer box. i will check the breather but knowing my luck I am not holding my breath!
Cheers,
Del
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This post from another forum helped me with a similar problem The hard part is finding the source of the leak, fixing it usually quite easy. Where exactly is the oil appearing? what type of oil is it? how much oil is leaking?. A leak from the flywheel drain hole can come from 3 likely sources - 1) The engine is loosing oil, probably from the crankshaft rear seal, that oil is usually black or dark brown in colour and tastes like engine oil . Not too bad if the leak is small, say approximately one spoonful of oil per day. 2) The main gearbox is loosing oil through the input shaft seal, that oil may, be red in colour, again a minor leak is not the end of the world but if not fixed it could eventually turn embarrasingly expensive. 3) The clutch slave cylinder is leaking, the oil may be light/golden brown colour, relatively easy to fix but if you loose more than a couple of spoonfuls of oil you will have no clutch . A leak from above the top of the gearbox may simply be coming from the engine rocker cover and is easy enough to repair/replace.
The oil is coming from either the gearbox or the transfer box and is leking from the mating face.
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Hi,
I have a '99 V8 110 Station Wagon fitted with an R380 gearbox and an LT230TE transfer box. While checking underneath I noticed a slight oil leak coming from the joint between the gearbox and the transfer box. I haven't checked the oil levels but will do so tomorrow. Any suggestions as to the possible cause(s) of the leak?
Cheers,
Del
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Hello there, we met you in Argentina, Gobernador something, when you arrived late at night and couldn't put up your roof tent at the hotel because of the wind. We live in La Paz and if you need any help we will be only to glad to see what we can do. We know local sources for spare parts and mechanical assistance. Our phone numbers are: landline 2413230l, Mobiles 76754444 and 74634912.
Del and Miriam
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vehicles from IIRC 1988 onwards have 4mm glass, my 1989 110CSW does.
on 110's the glass changed to 4mm at chassis number 342384 on hardtop vehicles & 344755 on station wagons
Many thanks for the detailed reply.
Cheers,
Del
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I want to order some replacement seals for the alpine lights on my '99 110 Defender Station Wagon (XA159828). The catalogue gives options for 5mm and 4mm glass thicknesses and quotes a change point of EA 344187 for the 90 Station Wagon from 5mm to 4mm but no change point for the 110. It would seem logical that my vehicle is fitted with the 4mm thick glass but if you could confirm I would appreciate it. I have to import parts on a four to six week turn round with no exchange so you will appreciate why I need to get things right first time.
Cheers,
Del
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I recently fitted a Safari snorkel to my V8 Station Wagon. The snorkel is mounted on the right hand side of the vehicle which as my vehicle is LHD meant that the the inlet hose had to be threaded past the heater matrix. It is do-able but as Ralph pointed out it is a very "cosy" fit.
Cheers,
Del
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Try copying and pasting this link, it should answer all your questions http://www.google.com.bo/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CC0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Follr.createaforum.com%2Ftechnical-archive%2Fkwd%2527s-megajolt-ignition%2F&ei=71fkUOHAAorV0gHrj4GoDA&usg=AFQjCNFS20sb5PrxnKdrzvbPagjc81GDWw&bvm=bv.1355534169,d.dmQ&cad=rja
Cheers,
Del
PS - I have just Megajolted my V8 with a kit from Triggerwheels and it does everything it says on the box!!
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Try copying and pasting this link, it should answer all your questions http://www.google.com.bo/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CC0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Follr.createaforum.com%2Ftechnical-archive%2Fkwd%2527s-megajolt-ignition%2F&ei=71fkUOHAAorV0gHrj4GoDA&usg=AFQjCNFS20sb5PrxnKdrzvbPagjc81GDWw&bvm=bv.1355534169,d.dmQ&cad=rja
Cheers,
Del
PS - I have just Megajolted my V8 with a kit from Triggerwheels and it does everything it says on the box!!
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It is 32mm AF and lh thread.32mm spanner size, I THINK it's lh thread
Cheers,
Del
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I drove a virtually new Puma from Santiago to La Paz a few years ago. I think the maximum elevation we went through would have been around 4,200 metres. There was a noticable drop of in power as you would expect from the reduced amount of oxygen available but on the whole driveable as long as I wasn't thinking about the possible harmful effects of the unburnt fuel. Clouds of black smoke on start up from cold but not too bad when hot.
As far as 5,000 metres is concerned I think you might be approaching the limit. I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the normal injection set up will compensate up to 3,000 metres.
Cheers,
Del
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I need to take the viscous fan coupling off my 3.5 V8. Can anybody let me know whether it is RH or LH thread. Also what is the AF size for the flat spanner?
Cheers,
Del
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I am going to make a start on installing a Megajolt system from Trigger-wheels on my 3.5 Defender next weekend and I am in the process of accumulating the additional bits and pieces I will need. Can anybody give me the diameter and length of the bolts required to mount the trigger wheel to the crankshaft pulley?
Cheers,
Del
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Hi,I've used it without problems but, you got me wondering
So I tried the probes of my continuity tester in a pot of Vaseline and I didn't get a flicker from it.
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I have just been checking vaseline in Wikipedia where it is defined as being "a non-polar hydrocarbon hydrophobic (water-repelling) and insoluble in water". The other consideration (minor?) is that vaseline is the trade name for petroleun jelly which is "a mixture of hydrocarbons, having a melting-point usually within a few degrees of human body temperature, which is approximately 37 °C (99 °F).[2] It is flammable only when heated to liquid, then the fumes will light, not the liquid itself, so a wick material like leaves, bark, or small twigs is needed to light petroleum jelly".
Hope this helps.
Del
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Paul,
Many thanks!
Del
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I had a problem a week or so ago when the fuel pump stopped working 50km from home. Subsequent investigation found that the cause of the failure was corrosion of the fuel pump supply pin in the connector on the top of the pump. Any suggestions as to how I can prevent this happening again? Application of vaseline or grease? If grease what type?
Cheers,
Del
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Nigel,HI All and thanks Del, did as you suggested and the wheel locked up so it is the switch/light not the diff lock.
Good news! I have to agree with mmgemini and suggest you get it fixed ASAP. If it is the switch be very gentle with it when you replace it as the wall thickness of the threaded section is not very thick and it is all to easy to shear if you overtighten it, even ever so slightly. I know, I've done it!!
Cheers,
Del
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With the vehicle on level ground and the handbrake engaged and the engine not running jack one of the front wheels, it doesn't matter which, clear of the ground. With the diff-lock disengaged the wheel should turn freely by hand. Now move the diff-lock lever to the engaged position and you should find that you cannot turn the wheel. Moving the diff-lock lever to the disengaged position should result in the wheel again being able to be turned. If this is the case the fault is with either the switch or the associated wiring.
Cheers,
Del
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Julian,No relay required, but you may want to consider fitting a G-switch to isolate the pump if you have a bad accident. I fitted one to a car of mine I converted to electric fool pump, it came from a small Rover I think.
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27c9efafed
Julian.
I only intend using the pump to transfer from the auxilliary to the main tank but a good idea all the same for the main pump.
Cheers,
Del
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Ralph,Hi Del
this might help http://www.facet-pur...il-products.php
'Click here for more information; it opens another page with pump details on that page it says 1.6 amps average
Right on the money! So no relay required.
Many thanks,
Del
V8 Rocker Cover Gasket
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Can anybody out there suggest an alternative to the Bostik 1775 impact adhesive recommended for fixing the gasket to the rocker cover? I have tried to source the Bostik product in La Paz with no luck.
Cheers,
Del