Don Del
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Posts posted by Don Del
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Tyres yes, spares though are about two to three times UK price if they are available!I was about to tell Bolivia's expirience, they have (supposedly) ultra low prices for Defender spare parts, tyres and rims....
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Hi Jode,Senor Don -
Did you smear heat-sink paste between the module and the alu heat sink that forms part of the mounting bracket on the side of the dizzy? The modules must be heat-sensitive, as the work shop manual stipulates that this is necessary.
Other than that point, I can offer no other 'wisdom' regarding your problem. La Paz is quite high, so maybe the modules run hotter at higher altitudes (but that doesn't make sense to my very limited knowledge of electronics, so the thought is probably a red herring).
By the way, what symptoms does the fault express? I ask because we once had a 110 V8 with twin SUs plus a pointless dizzy, and we ended up with a problem (never fully resolved, although we have subsequently sold the vehicle) whereby the engine would intermittently loose power after running for an hour or so. We replaced fuel filters, plugs, checked ignition cables, replaced the module (yes) - nothing would sort the problem. As I had rebuilt the SUs quite some time before then, I could only guess that the problem was perhaps related to a stretched timing chain (something I hadn't yet got around to replacing).
Good luck!
Many thanks for your reply. I have applied heat sink paste to the ones I have installed. The one on the new distributor was a factory fitted unit. The normal failure mode is total lack of spark, you can hold the HT lead off the coil in your hand and crank the engine without even a tickle. The one on the new distributor when it failed after a good soaking would give a weak spark making starting difficult but once started and hot the engine ran normally.
I think you might be onto something with the altitude because it was on the advice of an LR mechanic that I first changed out a module that was running OK because of the high local failure rate.
Cheers,
Del
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In the last 25,000km I have managed to get through four distributor modules. The first was a Britpart unit fitted as preventative maintenance (I know - if it ain't broke don't change it!) which lasted about 25 km. Then another fitted on a new replacement distributor partially gave up the ghost after a good soaking, not total failure just a very weak spark and diifficult starting. The replacement Bearmach unit gave up this morning after about 8,000km for no apparent reason, just wouldn't start. A replacement Lucas unit was good for one start and then it too gave up the ghost. I have replaced that one with a Britpart unit and all is well though on previous performance I am not holding my breath! I am now all out of spares and though I can source them locally they go for US$200 a pop. My other alternative is to forget about using the truck amd wait a month for delivery from the UK.
Am I just jinxed or is my eperience par for the course? Are there any differences between the various suppliers because I would have thought there is probably only the one manufacturer supplying this part? Any comments welcome!
Cheers,
Del
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I was looking around in La Paz, Bolivia, a couple of months ago for ATs but couldn't find any at that time. Admittedly I wasn't trying too hard as I only wanted to get a feel for the pricing and I have no doubt that if I was to check today I would come across some. Bridgestone MTs were available at US$185 a pop and Cooper MTs at US $245.
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My vehicle is a '99 model fitted with a V8 by the factory for export which means all the running gear is essentially as for a Td5. I checked for the switch blank but it is not fitted. I did give some thought to going down the original kit route but the difficulty of sourcing the relevant parts made it a non starter. Also it would have meant meant finding a new home for the fuse boxes located in the right hand seat box.I think the V8 was configured to be modified with an additional tank there is usually a blank fitted under the intrument console, I think this a fuel change over switch position. There should in theory be a sub section of the parts manual detailing all the gear you'd need to do this job if you want to go Original kit.
If there is not one of these was your vehicle not an original V8? There has been a thread on aux tanks here but I think it was a while back.
My initial query in this post was to source the push fit (with two buttons that need depressing to disconnect) fittings that are installed in the main and return fuel lines from the tank. I have come up with a work around that is satisfactory but I would still like to source the original parts. These are not the couplings referred to earlier in this post that require worm drive clips.
Cheers,
Del
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Many thanks!
Del
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Sorry for the delay in getting back on your reply but I have been out and about. Yes, my V8 is fitted with carbs. I have no problem with sourcing replacement filters here in Bolivia but what is stumping me is finding the female push fit connectors that go in the fuel line. Any suggestions for a UK source?For Carb V8's you can use plastic fuel filters like this
For later Injection V8's you should use a metal fuel filter like this with screw connections due to the higher pressure of the fuel pump.
Though I use a metal push on fuel filter NTC5958 for my injection v8 with hose clips.
I guess your V8 must be a Carb version if using the plastic filter, I'm not sure if a carb fuel pump would handle the larger sized metal push on Injection fuel filter, it might require more fuel pump pressure to push the fuel through.
But the push connections would be more robust.
Cheers - Del
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My vehicle is a '99 V8 110 Sation Wagon and I am giving some thought to fabricating a belly tank to go under the right hand side of the vehicle, which here is the passengers side, to give some (much needed) additional fuel capacity. I have mocked up a cardboard model of a tank with a capacity of 65 litres or so which fits quite snugly in the space available and doesn't project below the chassis. If I decide to go ahead with the project I can get the tank fabricated locally in stainless steel without too much difficulty. My idea is to have a separate filler for the tank and also a separate pump, I have got a PRC3901 available, to transfer fuel to the main tank.
There are obviously a number of things to work through before proceeding but the one that is causing me some concern at the moment is that my vehicle is fitted with a plastic in-line fuel filter, approx. 56mm in diameter by 88mm long, which will have to be relocated before I can put in the additional tank. I am not sure if the filter is original because this type of filter is not referred to in the parts catalogue. The lines either side of the filter have push fit connectors. My current idea is to cut out the sections of pipe with the push fit connectors and replace the missing section of line with correct grade rubber fuel line , in-line pipe connectors and hose clips. So far so good! Having salvaged the push fit connectors I am considering relocating the filter nearer the tank just about under the rear seats.
The fuel line is webbed in tandem with the return line which I am assuming I can cut to separate. What really concerns me though is refitting the push fit coconnectors as the line appears very inflexible. The part number for the line is WJP108070.
Any comments suggestions would be very welcome!
Cheers - Del
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I also run the BPR6ES from NGK on Petrol and LPG with no problem at all. Needed a bit of fiddling to set the gap out of the box, about half were more or less correct. Better than the Champion ones I took out in my opinion.
Another positive vote for NGK. Many thanks!
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I have run Champion, NGK and the Denso equivalent of the NGK's in my 3.5 with no issues. OEM leads are totally fine as long as they are kept clean and separated properly (especially 5 & 7) and people who tell you that you need million pound magencor leads or the like and super whizzy plugs are talking poo.
I am currently running NGK BP6RES on home made leads powered by EDIS coilpacks. No problems at all.
LPG and petrol both run perfectly.*edit - to answer your question on longevity I ran my OEM leads for a long time with no problems, some 20,000 miles or so- some went even further after I fitted EDIS as they were still in place with totally bodged on adaptor ends to allow the rover ends to connect to the EDIS coils... that "temporary" solution lasted about a year at least...
Thanks for your input. My question on longevity was regarding the plugs rather than the leads. Any thoughts?
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My V8 is currently fitted with the recommended Champion RN9YC spark plugs and Lucas HT leads. The spark plugs have been in for approximately 15,000km and although there is no marked deterioration in performance I am considering changing them out as I recall reading an article that said that the spark plugs in the V8 do not have a long life. Would anybody care to comment? On the same topic I am having difficulty sourcing Champion spark plugs locally and have been offered the NGK equlvalent, again any comments?
I replaced the HT leads wlth a set from Lucas approxlmately 20,000km ago and they appear to be dolng well. My question on the HT leads is are there any better out on the market or are the leads from Lucas about as good as it gets?
As far as sourcing the replacements is concerned I periodically import bits from the UK so non-availability in Bolivia is not a great problem.
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Job done! The floats on both carbs were set 8-10mm low. Not only that there was no oil in the dampers, the screws holding the butterflies hadn't been splayed open, one of the needles hadn't been fitted correctly and the hard to get at carb fixing nut on the bottom right corner of the left hand carb hadn't been fitted. All iall very disappointing from a mechanic with 10 years plus experience. I suppose it just reinforces the old adage - "if you want a job done right, do it yourself"!
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It may sound strange but - check the routing of the HT leads.
I've experienced a RV8 or two where the HTleads were a bit floppy and moved about under cornering - causing 'crossfiring' between pairs of leads. A weak spark was getting to some cylinders at the bottom of their intake stroke, causing all sorts of badness.
I've even seen this be bad enough to cause a blowback and blow all the oil out of the SU dashpot on one bank of cylinders.
--Tanuki.
When the problem first started I also considered the HT leads or the supply to the coil as possible culprits but on checking everything appeared OK and I was unable to replicate the problem with the bonnet up and "wiggling" the HT leads and coil/distributor power supply.
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Could the float heights, if set too low cause this problem?
I'm sure a grown up will be along soon with a better answer/suggestion....
I think you have a point. Watch this space and I will make my findings public when I get around to dismantling the carbs later this week.
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I have recently had the SU carbs on my V8 110 Station Wagon fully overhauled (new jets, needles, floats, float needles and seats, etc, etc). The parts were sourced fron Burlen and the work was done by an experienced LR mechanic moonlighting from the local ex Land Rover agent. After the work there was a marked improvement in performance and fuel consumption but with one niggling problem. The vehicle goes like a train in a straightline both on the flat and uphill but with the accelerator flat to the floor in second or third any bend of more than 30-40° in the road results in a marked loss of power. As soon as the road staightens out everything returns to normal. The engine never cuts out completely and there is no backfiring. I have checked for loose electrical connections but everything appears OK. I have a feeling that the problem is in one or other of the float chambers, possibly a needle valve stivking open or closed, and intend stripping the carbs next week to check. In the meantime any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem would be welcome.
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if your existing rubber mounts are circular, then I reckon you need these.
http://www.lrseries....-RUBBER-V8.html
Product Description:
V8 engine model, rubber mounting kit, includes 1 rubber mounting and fixings.
Fits engine and transmission mountings.
Definitely round. Just a baffling number of part numbers for the same basic part. Thanks for your help.
Del
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I want to replace the engine and gearbox mounting rubbers on my '99 V8 Defender Staion Wagon. I have checked the websites of various suppliers and there are a variety of different part numbers quoted. What are the correct part numbers for my vehicle? The last 8 digits of the VIN are XA159828.
Cheers,
Del
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Guys,
Many thanks for your input. All sorted now.
Del
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I want to order rebuild kits for the SU carbs on my '99 V8 Defender Staion Wagon. I need to know the model number and anything else relevant. Checking the SU website the latest V8 LR vehicle they quote for is '85. The last 8 digits of the VIN are XA159828.
Cheers,
Del
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looking at your page the left hand picture actually matches the location as on my attachment above, the orange arrow is the difflock linkage the blue is the front output housing.
any reference to left or right should always be the vehicles left or right as sat in the driving seat or stood behind the vehicle facing forwards that way the convention is always the same & prevents confusion.
probably of no use to your vehicle, but it serves a purpose as a blanking plug to prevent any transfer box oil leaking.
In referring to the right hand side I used the convention you refer to. I think you are right, it is just serving as an expensive blanking plug! Many thanks to you and the others answering this post. At least it is one less job for me to plan for.
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found it in my LR RAVE info, it's on the forward face of the front output housing -- see pages below highlighted green item 37 or 38 depending on early or late transferbox.
part number to follow
http://www.brit-car....hp?xProd=122627 IGM100000 the other number is IGM100010 but I can't find a photo of it,
Did you check my scanned page? My switch is located on the right hand side. Also further to Retroanaconda's post is it of any practical use on my vehicle?
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Td5s have a high/low range switch, since the OPs vehicle was built in the Td5 era (just) its quite possible that it was included on his V8 model even if it isn't used. Especially since it's an export model.
Is the V8 ECU-controlled or is it carbs? If it's ECU then it will have a feed from a high/low sensor to adjust throttle response just like a Td5.
I think we might be getting somewhere! The engine is on carbs.
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Manual R380 and the switch is on the main gearbox to the rear of the diff lock lever.
To make things a bit (hopefully) clearer I have attached a scanned page fron the manual.
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Manual R380 and the switch is on the main gearbox to the rear of the diff lock lever.
Thinking about it wouldn't that put it on the transfer box?
LPG and petrol both run perfectly.
Facet Fuel Pump
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I am going to use a Facet fuel pump as part of an auxilliary fuel tank installation. Does anybody have an idea of what the maximum current draw of this pump is and what size fuse would be suitable?
Cheers,
Del