reads90
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Posts posted by reads90
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Hi, just a bit of an intro as I'm new to the forum:
I've just bought a '72 2-door Range Rover, its getting delivered next week. Will be rebuilding her from the pile of bits I've bought over the next year (full stripdown, everything galv'd, respray).
Have done plenty of work on Series and a bit on Discos but this is my first RR and I plan on keeping her for life. The mechanicals and chassis are perfectly salvageable but the body has been chopped about a bit,
I'll be asking loads of questions I'm sure, starting with - does anyone know of any 2-door shells for sale near Cumbria? I'm hoping to source a complete body from warmer climes less prone to rust, but failing that I'll try for one from the UK
Cheers,
Gaz.
I know of loads with no rust at all
But but not that local to you , in fact I don't think you could go any further away if you want to
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I seem to remember you getting stuck in the same lake as i'm stuck in above John
Yeah remember the days of pulling you out all over romsey and brickkyn farm
But I believe that were the day before you were a FIGJAM
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It sounds bad but I can't actually remember the last time I got stuck
obviously not trying hard enough.I can Jon I can remember quite a few times you got stuck
Got some pics some where if you want
Ali
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Very true but we all know how the tolerances are on Land rovers
Yeah the correct tolerance term for Land rovers is
"that'll do" in my best brummie accent
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If you want to be pedantic it's 92.73 inches
But searching for a 90 with that would be like finding the holy Grail
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So i've bought a TD5 which has had two previous owners. The original owner was of farming stock and so there are a few "NFU", "Keep Britain Farming" and "Don't Milk My Milk" stickers on it (actually I made up the last one!!).
Should these stickers be retained on the vehicle so I can "mix it" with the local agricultural community or should I replace them with something more in tune with the general Land Rover appreciation community?
I had a sticker on the back of my old rangie that said
" eat british lamb, 40,000 foxes can't be wrong "
And it made a total difference to the way people treated you on green lanes and I mean for the better
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Two door Ralph, two seats
So why not have a 90 then ?
All the extra length and space for nothing
Well done on getting the 110 we had a disco but was a pain with the kids and dogs so now have the 110 and 90
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i have not got a defender yet, but i want to stay with diesel, if i get a petrol defender as the base, is there a massive difference?
Just the engine and somtimes gearbox really
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so, what is the difference between a 90 and 110? except their length.
how is it that the gear selector comes up in a different position?
to refine my original question, i would like a 110 as they are much more
handy. and what is it that makes the gear selector come up in the wrong
place.
are the brackets for 2.5/200/300 in the same place for g/box and engines?
i have 2 300 tdi disco 1's. i intend to keep one whilst i do one up, then
another after the first is ready.
i would rather not cut them about, unless it is the norm.
is it basically engine,g/box,axles then?
The rear axle in a 90 is the same as in a disco and RRC but the 110 has a more heavy duty one
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I have Put a RRC LSE engine and gearbox into a 90 with no problem. Just need to tidy up where the gear lever comes out. But can done that's easy. but no other real problem
And don't need to hack around the seats boxes or anything
Anyway he asked what would fit and not if it was going to look pretty :-)
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i have wanted to 'do up' a defender for a while now and i want to do it myself. not because i am cheap,
i just want to do it. what can i use from my 300 tdi disco1?
cheers in advance,
richard
What s your defender
If it is a 90 you can use the front and rear axle but if a 110 then you can use the front axle
But also you can use the engine, gearbox, front seats, wheels
Ali
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Hi, looking to get some info on a larger tyre size to fit the vogue alloys on my 1989 3.5 efi, it is in the process of being lifted 50mm( realise that doesn't mean its necessarily going to be two inches higher afterwards!),
Your right it is more than likely to be more than 50 mm
Ali
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This is my 1985 RRC
some pics taken with my phone
Original top and bottom tailgate
Wheel arches good
Sill has a little bit of surface rust
Chassis still has original paint and never be wax oil of under sealed
Bottom of the doors ok
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hello just wondering has anybody ever seen a mint condition rrc body shell with the patch number tag still on it just want to know if anyone has ever found one
thanks jack
Yeah I have one sat in my garage
Bought a 1985 rrc last weekend but I had a rust hole on the sill the size of a 50 pence in the sill so I ditched it and bought one a day later that had no rust. Both have there original rear top and bottom tailgates and never had any welding. But for the price (£400)could not be bothered to weld up the hole. Nearly bought a 2 door but as I want the rr to off road woth the kids I wanted a 4 door. Although the 2 door had no rust either and original top and bottom tailgate . But was a 70's model so did not know if I wanted to go that late. But was tempted as it only went for £350
Ali
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"3 second pop up tent" is that how long it will last in a good breeze?
Love the paint job, judging by the wheel nuts and those tubular brackets at the back it was a 30 second blow over with a spraygun from one direction only
All it needs now is a Scrapiron sticker
Ah the old 10 foot spray job
Or painted by hand , maybe next time he should have used a brush
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Was it not the EU that killed off the Cosworth with noise regs ??
Not to worry, when we get the referendum on europe we can all vote to leave !!!
Paul
How the hell do harleys get away with it
Thoses things make a racket
Ali
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I'm led to believe today that if one uses the aftermarket "heavy duty" type drive flanges with the screw on cap (like these) then the alloy wheel centre caps will fit as the nut doesn't stick out as far as the the plastic end cap. Has anyone tried this and found it to be the case ?
I know all about the other issues of fitting alloys to an early axle so save your fingertips
Cheers
Mo
Don't know about the copy ones but the old Maxi Drive ones , who were the first to do them. Had two different types one for alloys and one for steels. The problem was not with the length so much but the width. The alloy one were more trimmed around the edges than the steel ones
Ali
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would like to see his dads face with the bar hanging out the axle casing.
Yeah I would pay good money for that
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I repair cars for a living (not just manky old Land Rovers
), and on a few occasions I've left the vehicle in bits and walked away.I recently did the timing belt on a Focus, which was owned by the most boring, fussy, person on the entire planet. Every time I took a part off, he would whisk it away, clean it thoroughly, then bring it back. He would get in the way so much that I sometimes couldn't see anything other than the back of his head. Setting the timing on Euroboxes needs some concentration and care, as a mistake can lead to bent valves/poor running, etc. In the end I had to tell him to keep away or I'll leave it, which he reluctantly did, but slapped the money in my hand in a big huff when the job was done. The customer is not always right, in fact a lot of the time they are totally wrong and a pain in the ass
Les.
Have to agree totally les. And they are getting worse after surfing the Internet and then thinking they know everything.
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Alternator is on it's way out
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Actually thats what we are doing for some things. I have an account with one of the parts dealers and will do just that. DHL don't get everwhere though and it can be expensive and slow in the back end of nowhere.
I would not worry about it in Aus. Most of the land rover parts places deliver next day or 48 hours if you are in a place in the middle of no where. I buy my parts from a chap in Tasmania which is about 2500 miles from me but they deliver to my place before 11 am the next day
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Where do you get that idea from? Practically all LandCruisers and Hilux have the same full-float axles as the LR so can be limped back to town in exact the same way a LR can. Patrols on the other hand do have semi-float axles (don't know if that counts for all of them though) but the chance of breaking one of those axles is very remote, they're very very strong. After all, they beat on them offroad and in comps on 37" on standard axles and they survive.
Your right they are alot stronger and hence why all the land rover trucks ( manly RRC ) in the outback challenge run with Nissan or Toyota axles or a mix of both
But I have not owned a Toyota or Nissan ( and not planning on it too) but was told the toyotas ( even more so the troupies) are the same as the patrols and can't be driven once the shaft has broken. Obviously you know better
But as I said have not owned one or broken one
Just what I have been told by Toyota owners
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I think you are looking into this too much
If you are running normal Tyres and can drive and don't drive like a t**t . Then the chances of you breaking a dif or shaft are all most none
As said before when touring it is not like a site day of who can throw the most mud in the air or climb the biggest hill or cross the deepest water. You don't do any of that when touring . If you find a mud hole in the middle of Arica or Australia then you drive around I as you have the room
I drove 25000 miles around Australia mostly on tracks . I did it in a 90 with standard open axles and towing a heavyish camper trailer and had 235/85 r16 BFG AT Tyres. I had no problem with axles or getting stuck. I did get stuck 400 miles north of Perth. But I had a winch and ground anchor and used that to get me out rather than rev the carp out of the car and going for the chance of blowing something
Lots and lots of people have driven around the world in all sorts of conditions in land rover and had no problem with land rover axles. The problem normally starts with bigger Tyres and a heavy right foot , followed by a bit of showing of to your mates
I don't believe you need to take shafts. Where do you stop, do you want ring and pinions too or just take a diff . You need to keep the weight down and taking stuff like that will just add to that when you don't need them . As said before you can limp in a land rover and that will get you out. That is on major advantage of a land rover over a Toyota or Nissan. They break a shaft that's it you can drive the car anywhere .
Ali
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Take a rear long shaft and front long shaft as 9 times out ten they always break first as they are weaker than the short ones
), and on a few occasions I've left the vehicle in bits and walked away.
td5 defender 110 overlander pop-top or rooftent?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Depends where you are thinking of going when you say overland. If you are going across Arica , america or Australia then you will need the space in the car and a roof top tent would be better. If you are just driving around Europe then no need too carry the same amount of carp so can sleep inside the car.
But have to remember a few things. Nothing worse than getting somewhere to sleep after a long day on the road and having to replan the inside of the car just so you sleep. That is the joy of a roof top tent . Just stop open it up and fall asleep.
But I have a 90 and 110 overland truck with all the normal things like , rear draws, engel fridge, twin fuel tanks, twin batteries , winch, snorkel, but they also have cargo barriers to stop the stuff from the back coming forward to the front should anything happen . This is an important feature but becomes a problem if you want to sleep in the car
Personally I have a camper trailer . This was because when I first did it had had a 90 soft top overland truck ( so roof top tent was not an option) , but now I also have a 110 overland truck as well it still works well as I now have two kids
But don't start the tent vs roof top tent vs camper trailer argument or we could be on this topic for a bit