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RGK

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Posts posted by RGK

  1. Hi,

    Does anyone know the operating temperature of ERR2081? Is it a switch or a temperature reading sensor?

    I've being checking the 300tdi operating temperature range, which seems to be 90oC. I've installed a 1996 300tdi into my 1983 110.

    I need to install an electric fan, and rather than introducing another temperature sensor in the water hose I thought I may be able to utilise the redundant head temp switch (ERR2081).

    It may be more efficient reading the head temp before the coolant.

    Thanks

  2. 13 hours ago, Junglie said:

    I found the best thing was to lob the spacers in a bucket and replace the wheels with Wolf steels. Whatever I did I couldn't make them stay secure - the bub bolts are now 30 degrees out of alignment with the notches in the wheel and they stop it from tightening properly. I think. It damn' nearly killed me, I do know that...

    Squeaky arse time!

    I was thinking the hub bolts ie yhe flange parts was rubbing against the alloy, but your telling me the hub bolt position changed?

  3. Thanks for the replies. It's sadly nice that others have had issues with the mounting bracket.

    I wish my problem could be solved with a spacer. But mine need material taking of taking the caliper out. Which is more difficult to do ie ensuring the face is flat and true.

    Why can't britpart make better parts...especially as these mounts aren't cheap

  4. Hi

    I'm doing a drum to disc conversion.

    All parts in, but I'm having an align and clearance issue with the caliper.

    The caliper mounting bracket (FTC3306) needed tweaking/ trimming the internal radial to clear the axle welds. But the caliper is rubbing/ wedged to the disc.

    Has anyone had this issue?

    Where the mounting brackets meets the caliper need machining to allow the caliper to clear the outside of the disc?

     

    Advise would be greatly appreciated 

  5. Hi,

    I refurbishing my sankey trailer, which all in all is going well. However I'm having trouble identifying parts (ie serviceable parts):

    Wheel bearings

    Seals

    Damper and bushes

    Leaf spring bushes 

    Grease nipple

    Leather oil seal

    Oil seals

    Shoes 

    Shoe springs

    Brake adjuster

    Brake extender

     

    I believe these parts are series based. Is this true.

     

    Thanks for any help

     

    20201113_213711.jpg

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  6. Hi,

    I've had some conflicting advise from two land rover parts suppliers/ specialists, i'm not going to mention them as not to undermine their businesses.

    Scenario:

    I own a defender 90 1986 (300tdi), and was thinking of upgrading the suspension without increase the height of the vehicle. Therefore my thoughts are to fit:
    +2 Big Bore Expedition Shocks
    Std height heavy load springs
    Dislocation cones allround

    Assuming over 5,000 miles per annum the 90 is used for 20% green laning, 30% traveling (tarmac & unsurfaced roads) & 50% normal road use.

    The vehicle will be full ladened for traveling, and lightened in normal use, however still carrying (3/4) roof rack & rear tub storage box, second spare, aux battery and second fuel tank. I'm concerned the suspension system indicated above may be too ridged/ hard for normal use or standard setup wont be able to hand the mean or gross weight increase??

    Advice Source 1: recommend heavy load springs, uprated shocks, basically as described above.

    Advice Source 2: recommend using standard springs and shocks. on the basis that heavy load should be used when the vehicle is 'heavy' on tarmac roads. A lighter vehicle/ unladened off road wouldn't compress the springs thus loosing traction and on road would be too hard of a ride.

     

    Could anyone advise before i purchase the wrong setup.

    Thanks

  7. Hi,

    The wifes disco 1 has one more mot in it, then i'm planning to strip it for parts ie engine, axles, etc for my 90. Which left me with the conundrum what to do with the leftovers... the chassis and body.

    One thought was to chop the front end off to re-engineer into a trailer/ camper (as sketched attached).

    My questions are:

    1. has anyone done this conversion and/ or towed a conversion like this? if so, how was it? is it to heavy?

    2. am i better to cut the disco down from the A pillar or make it shorter by cutting from the B pillar?

    3. Could i lighten the chassis?

     

    D1 1996 Dim's - Draft Layout 1.pdf

  8. 52 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:

    I’m no expert on this but could it be that the shaft is tilting when on full lock , and I think I remember reading somewhere that the big screw on the side of the box with the grub screw under it if tightened takes the play out of the shaft , might be total rubbish but could be a possibility.

    That makes sense. I'll adjust it and let you know.

  9. I spoke to the parts supplier yesterday and their technical person.

    2 responses:

    1st via sales...

    "We has lots of instance of this seal failing. One guy tried it 4 times before giving up."

    2nd technical...

    "The plastic/ rubber seal can create hair line mark on the shaft that van course failure when under high pressure"

  10. Help!

    I've recon'd a PAS box...We'll new seals, cleaned put it back together thought I did a pretty good job.

    Refit, bleed and ran in (stationary on axle stands,  lock to lock) worked perfectly.

    However once on the deck I tested the steering then notice fluid on the floor.

    The bottom seal leak/ pours out only on right hand steering/ lock.

    Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

  11. Thank you to everyone for your replies.

    I thought i would add a status update regarding the 'Upol Raptor' paint given its been on the truck for 2 years.

    Application:

    Due to limited space, the good wifey let me take over the garden/ yard to paint the following under a gazebo!

    doors (front & back)

    Wings

    Bonnet

    Roof

    1. Generally everything was rubbed down and bare alu was hand painted with acid etch.

    2. all surfaces rubbed down and cleaned

    3. 2 pac primer applied by brush

    4. rubbed down & cleaned

    5. upol raptor sprayed on with 20% thinners, with black for the roof and satin grey for everything else

     

    Pros:

    Acid etch paints amazingly well by brush

    Upol spray's ridiculously easily, considering I've never sprayed anything before.

    The Upol tintable has maintained its colour strength.

     

    Cons:

    Don't hand brush 2 pac primer...far to thick, resulting in needless hours of sanding.

    The doors required repairs prior which left large parts need to striped to the bare metal. Since painting there has been a few areas where the paint has separated from the alu. i can only assume i either (or both) hadn't applied enough acid etch or the surface had become contaminated & subsequently i hadn't cleaned is enough. My intention is next summer i will rub down these areas and repaint by hand. 

    The black raptor paint for the roof isn't very 'black'

     

    Principles for painting the remainder of the 90 was the same as above however a friend kindly let me use his garage...this made ALL the difference...heat, easy of access, cleaner and controlled environment, etc, etc

    I haven't had a single issue with the painted areas that had been painted in the garage.

    As mentioned above i thinned the upol raptor paint by 20% as i didn't want a rough finish. The thinned version hasn't diminished the durability. however my only criticism is that when mixing the upol base paint, plus hardener, plus thinners, plus colour must be mixed in separate containers rather than the upol mixing bottle supplied. 

    The paint work has been scrapped in few places, but i'm not concerned as my theory of using the raptor paint is that the surface isnt glossy nor matt that repairing means painting an entire panel. My plan is to patch paint the scruffed areas summer 2019 by hand. I'll post the results then.

     

     

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  12. Ok ive going for it....ive purchased upol raptor tintable.

    Ive prepared the surfaces by:

    Sanded with 80 grit

    Etch bare metal

    Applied epoxy primer by brush

    Rubbed down with 180grit

    And going to spray the upol raptor

    My question is "how well does the rub down need to be prior to application of upol?" Will the upol raptor hide the imperfections that other paints (ie normal celly & thinners) would show?

    Thanks, as I could save alot of time

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