[Beefing up rear disc's]

Thanks everyone for your posts.

I'm currently using the 300tdi disco axles on the 90, therefore solid disc's in all corners.

Great points raised, especially over sizing the rear thus locking them up when under weight...as most of the driving will be onroad thetefore minimising the 'oh duck, mother duckkkkkker,....' moments of dispear in front of the kids will win me brownie points with the wife.

I believe to convert the front to vented discs will be expensive compared to the performance gain...plus vs/ or alternatively... applying decent pads with drilled/ vented solid discs all round is a cheaper option with near same results.

However are drilled and vented discs really a major issue when offroading ie collection of stones in the holes thus destroying the pad & disc?? An interesting topic

[Beefing up rear disc's]

Hi,

I have put 300tdi axles onto my Defender 90. My intention (in the future) is to increase the bhp and offroading/ expedition equipment. In which will increase the load on the brakes.

The current 300tdi front disc's are non vented, therefore rather the converting the front callipers to vented and before I sell the redundant 2.5na axle I thought of improving the current rear 300tdi discs with the front discs & callipers from the 2.5NA.

Is this possible and practical?

Can the existed 2.5NA brake cylinder & servo handle it?

Thanks.

[300tdi into defender 90 1986 2.5na wiring problems]

Thanks

[300tdi into defender 90 1986 2.5na wiring problems]

Thanks for the advice.

Ive been round tonight 'in the rain', the things you do for your landy!!

Ive taken the following pic's, can you advise/ clarify my assumptions, all of the below are 2.5na cables:

Photo 010, is the starter cables, 2 x brown wires into 1 connection two off, plus the solenoid brown(red) & yellow wire.

I don't know what the other green wire is for? Could be the cylinder head sensor??

Photo 006, alternator connection block, does anyone know which is th W, D+ & B+?

, i assume the other green wire wihin the alternator loom is for the thermo?

Photo 009, assume the white is the fuel pump soleniod, dont know what the other wire is?

Great advice so far. All making sense. I think for ease, ie get'in on the road, I'll try to use the existing, then improve outside the house ASAP.

When ive looked at the disco 300tdi loom to the 2.5na loom there seems to be major differences, or do I just replace the existing cable (previously mentioned) with larger?

Thanks again

[stopping power]

Hi,

Ive replaced both axles with 300tdi, to ensure the brake arent under servo'd ive replaced the existing servo and master cylinder with the from the 300tdi.

It took a bit of effort to redrill the two mounting holes...then I thought last night 'could I have used the original 2.5na servo with the 300tdi master cylinder?'

Any thoughts and advise greatly welcome

Thanks

[300tdi into defender 90 1986 2.5na wiring problems]

Hi,

Finally I've become an owner of my first land rover.

Unfortunately time isn't on my side, twins on the way, project is on a friends drive, his wife is being very understanding & thus I don't want to push it. Please could someone assist ASAP

We've mounted the 300tdi into the 90, however I've had a couple of issues with the engine wiring. The defender started life as a 2.5na 1986.

Does anyone of a simple easy to follow guide to do this?

I've read that some of the 2.5na cables such as the alternator & starter may not hold enough amp's to accommodate the 300tdi.

Other connections such as the 300tdi cylinder head temperature sensor has dual connections, compared to the 2.5na single.

Hence a easy step by step guide with photos would save me extremely valuable time.

Thanks

[110 vs 130 pro's & con's]

Your first and most important decison is to decide on your budget. Even if that is just what you can spare each month or a big bag of cash to do the whole thing. Either way this will let you decide which vehicle is right for you. So many projects fail because of budgets getting in the way and arguments over "how much your spending on that bl**dy car!"

I have had a 110 and I have a 127. To be honest they are totally different vehicles. the 110 was a CSW and the 127 is a double cab with a box on the back. I find the 127 very quiet on the road compared to the 110 or either of my 90's. I guess becausse the rear axle is under the load area and not a floor that would drum.

Also write down with your other half what you want to use the vehicle for, if you get them involved emotionally up front you will have more chance of completing the project. Perhaps your kids can get hands on to some of the non grinding roles? Thsi will also make it part of the family and less likey to be sold.

I would have a drive of a 110 and a 130 or 127 and see what you think. If your in this area your more than welcome to have a go in my 127.

TJ

Thanks for the offer, a test drive and pearls of wisdom would be greatly appreciated (maybe over a pie & a pint). Which part of the country are you in?

[110 vs 130 pro's & con's]

You do realise a RRC has a 100inch wheel base, and a 110 obviously has a 110inch wheel base.

If you go down this route, your going to have to modify the chassis a great deal, and that means SVA/IVA.

Plus, would you really want your family in a bodged together chassis?

It would turn out much cheaper to buy a 110, and drop a V8 in. Less hassle to get it road legal, and much safer.

i've read that the RR2 has a wheelbase of 108".

Great point about 'cut'n'shunt' and family, hate to say it may be 'not-seeing-the-wood-for the trees'.

Do you have any advice regarding the +'s of 110 & 130?

[110 vs 130 pro's & con's]

Just put the v8 into the 130, much simpler, if you're desperate for a more involved project then buy a big yank v8 and box and fit that!

Mike

Thanks, looks like i've had some duff advice (as previous quoted in my conversation with Keir)!

What would you say are the pron's & con's between 110 and 130?

to be honest the cost vs the benefit of a V8 vs diesel, i am now considering diesel

[110 vs 130 pro's & con's]

May i ask why you want to start with a rangie chassis? and not just buy a 110/130 and then modifiy that?

It was suggested to me and I thought made sense (at the time) that by buying and using a Range Rover I could use the engine (V8?, dreaming about a supercharged HSE, dreaming mind, but nice), air suspension, ABS, brakes, ac, interior (some, but more comfy for the wifey), etc and cut down on cost and time in modifying a 110 or 130.

Upon investigating Rangy’s do not seem to retain their value in comparison to the trusty defender, and defender body parts seem to be cheaper than Range Rover.

Thanks for your comments, as I really need guidance from ‘people-in-the-know’ before I start shelling £’s.

[110 vs 130 pro's & con's]

Since a young age working in a local garage and helping to build the bosses defender v8 conversion, Robinhood and Cobra replica, my ambition to do my own project one day has never waned...and now older with a family I have decided to plan & make my ambition come true (boys and their toys, just get bigger when they get older).

Now with a family in toe a two seater sporty number isn't practical and now in civil engineer an all round machine would suit me better.

Hence a defender ticks all the boxes (work, home, modifiable, and great fun in the mud)

I'm looking for some advise if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated...the initial plans are to build my own defender 110 or 130 hybrid based on a Range Rover chassis...

1) Apart from the obvious (ie 20" longer and extending the chassis) what are the pron's and con's of a 110 compared to the 130?

2) There are a number of specifications of Range Rover’s on the market with various additions, are there any models, year, etc I should avoid or must haves?

3) I have searched for chassis technical drawing of the 110's, 130's and Range Rover to compare, unfortunately with out success. Does anyone know where I can find copy's off?

Thanks,