[HD Drive flanges with Boost Alloys]

13 hours ago, Junglie said:

I found the best thing was to lob the spacers in a bucket and replace the wheels with Wolf steels. Whatever I did I couldn't make them stay secure - the bub bolts are now 30 degrees out of alignment with the notches in the wheel and they stop it from tightening properly. I think. It damn' nearly killed me, I do know that...

Squeaky arse time!

I was thinking the hub bolts ie yhe flange parts was rubbing against the alloy, but your telling me the hub bolt position changed?

[HD Drive flanges with Boost Alloys]

I'm sure this will have been experienced before...

I have 110 B reg Disc front brakes, drums on rear.

HD drive flanges (thick type TF5806) installed with 30mm spacers to allow boost alloys.

However the alloy seems to be catching something. 

Do I need to change the flange bolts to hex head DA1128?

[110 drum to disc]

Thanks for the replies. It's sadly nice that others have had issues with the mounting bracket.

I wish my problem could be solved with a spacer. But mine need material taking of taking the caliper out. Which is more difficult to do ie ensuring the face is flat and true.

Why can't britpart make better parts...especially as these mounts aren't cheap

[110 drum to disc]

Hi

I'm doing a drum to disc conversion.

All parts in, but I'm having an align and clearance issue with the caliper.

The caliper mounting bracket (FTC3306) needed tweaking/ trimming the internal radial to clear the axle welds. But the caliper is rubbing/ wedged to the disc.

Has anyone had this issue?

Where the mounting brackets meets the caliper need machining to allow the caliper to clear the outside of the disc?

 

Advise would be greatly appreciated 

[Sankey trailer parts]

Hi,

I refurbishing my sankey trailer, which all in all is going well. However I'm having trouble identifying parts (ie serviceable parts):

Wheel bearings

Seals

Damper and bushes

Leaf spring bushes 

Grease nipple

Leather oil seal

Oil seals

Shoes 

Shoe springs

Brake adjuster

Brake extender

 

I believe these parts are series based. Is this true.

 

Thanks for any help

 

[Suspension...Heavy load or standard??]

BIG thank you to everyone.

i could have spent a fortune and made a completely undriveable vehicle.

I'm now confident that standard springs & shocks are the way forward. and in the event the rear gets a 'saggy arse' i'll install helper springs/ air bags. 

[Suspension...Heavy load or standard??]

Hi,

I've had some conflicting advise from two land rover parts suppliers/ specialists, i'm not going to mention them as not to undermine their businesses.

Scenario:

I own a defender 90 1986 (300tdi), and was thinking of upgrading the suspension without increase the height of the vehicle. Therefore my thoughts are to fit:
+2 Big Bore Expedition Shocks
Std height heavy load springs
Dislocation cones allround

Assuming over 5,000 miles per annum the 90 is used for 20% green laning, 30% traveling (tarmac & unsurfaced roads) & 50% normal road use.

The vehicle will be full ladened for traveling, and lightened in normal use, however still carrying (3/4) roof rack & rear tub storage box, second spare, aux battery and second fuel tank. I'm concerned the suspension system indicated above may be too ridged/ hard for normal use or standard setup wont be able to hand the mean or gross weight increase??

Advice Source 1: recommend heavy load springs, uprated shocks, basically as described above.

Advice Source 2: recommend using standard springs and shocks. on the basis that heavy load should be used when the vehicle is 'heavy' on tarmac roads. A lighter vehicle/ unladened off road wouldn't compress the springs thus loosing traction and on road would be too hard of a ride.

 

Could anyone advise before i purchase the wrong setup.

Thanks

[Disco 1 camper conversion. rotten but not forgotten]

Hi,

The wifes disco 1 has one more mot in it, then i'm planning to strip it for parts ie engine, axles, etc for my 90. Which left me with the conundrum what to do with the leftovers... the chassis and body.

One thought was to chop the front end off to re-engineer into a trailer/ camper (as sketched attached).

My questions are:

1. has anyone done this conversion and/ or towed a conversion like this? if so, how was it? is it to heavy?

2. am i better to cut the disco down from the A pillar or make it shorter by cutting from the B pillar?

3. Could i lighten the chassis?

 

D1 1996 Dim's - Draft Layout 1.pdf

[PAS box bottom seal]

52 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:

I’m no expert on this but could it be that the shaft is tilting when on full lock , and I think I remember reading somewhere that the big screw on the side of the box with the grub screw under it if tightened takes the play out of the shaft , might be total rubbish but could be a possibility.

That makes sense. I'll adjust it and let you know.

[PAS box bottom seal]

I spoke to the parts supplier yesterday and their technical person.

2 responses:

1st via sales...

"We has lots of instance of this seal failing. One guy tried it 4 times before giving up."

2nd technical...

"The plastic/ rubber seal can create hair line mark on the shaft that van course failure when under high pressure"

[PAS box bottom seal]

15 hours ago, ianmayco68 said:

What was wrong with it before you reconditioned it ? And did you loosen any bolts on it or take anything apart ? 

I took the whole thing apart and cleaned.

The bottom seal was leaking before hand.

[PAS box bottom seal]

OEM seal used

[PAS box bottom seal]

Help!

I've recon'd a PAS box...We'll new seals, cleaned put it back together thought I did a pretty good job.

Refit, bleed and ran in (stationary on axle stands,  lock to lock) worked perfectly.

However once on the deck I tested the steering then notice fluid on the floor.

The bottom seal leak/ pours out only on right hand steering/ lock.

Does anyone know why?

Thanks

[Upol Raptor]

Thank you to everyone for your replies.

I thought i would add a status update regarding the 'Upol Raptor' paint given its been on the truck for 2 years.

Application:

Due to limited space, the good wifey let me take over the garden/ yard to paint the following under a gazebo!

doors (front & back)

Wings

Bonnet

Roof

1. Generally everything was rubbed down and bare alu was hand painted with acid etch.

2. all surfaces rubbed down and cleaned

3. 2 pac primer applied by brush

4. rubbed down & cleaned

5. upol raptor sprayed on with 20% thinners, with black for the roof and satin grey for everything else

 

Pros:

Acid etch paints amazingly well by brush

Upol spray's ridiculously easily, considering I've never sprayed anything before.

The Upol tintable has maintained its colour strength.

 

Cons:

Don't hand brush 2 pac primer...far to thick, resulting in needless hours of sanding.

The doors required repairs prior which left large parts need to striped to the bare metal. Since painting there has been a few areas where the paint has separated from the alu. i can only assume i either (or both) hadn't applied enough acid etch or the surface had become contaminated & subsequently i hadn't cleaned is enough. My intention is next summer i will rub down these areas and repaint by hand. 

The black raptor paint for the roof isn't very 'black'

 

Principles for painting the remainder of the 90 was the same as above however a friend kindly let me use his garage...this made ALL the difference...heat, easy of access, cleaner and controlled environment, etc, etc

I haven't had a single issue with the painted areas that had been painted in the garage.

As mentioned above i thinned the upol raptor paint by 20% as i didn't want a rough finish. The thinned version hasn't diminished the durability. however my only criticism is that when mixing the upol base paint, plus hardener, plus thinners, plus colour must be mixed in separate containers rather than the upol mixing bottle supplied. 

The paint work has been scrapped in few places, but i'm not concerned as my theory of using the raptor paint is that the surface isnt glossy nor matt that repairing means painting an entire panel. My plan is to patch paint the scruffed areas summer 2019 by hand. I'll post the results then.

 

 

[Upol Raptor]

I forgot to ask how msny coats did you apply?

[Upol Raptor]

Thanks Donald.

How thick is the paint when applied? Would it cover brush marks, scratches, etc?

Did yiu thin your paint? Im thinking of thinning it down to achieve a less course surface

[Upol Raptor]

Ok ive going for it....ive purchased upol raptor tintable.

Ive prepared the surfaces by:

Sanded with 80 grit

Etch bare metal

Applied epoxy primer by brush

Rubbed down with 180grit

And going to spray the upol raptor

My question is "how well does the rub down need to be prior to application of upol?" Will the upol raptor hide the imperfections that other paints (ie normal celly & thinners) would show?

Thanks, as I could save alot of time

[300tdi into defender 90 1986 2.5na wiring problems]

Thanks for the help and advice.

Finally got her started.

[Upol Raptor]

Hi,

I'm thinking of painting my 90 with upol raptor paint and application by roller.

Does anyone have any advise?

How many litres?

Thanks

[Beefing up rear disc's]

Thanks everyone for your posts.

I'm currently using the 300tdi disco axles on the 90, therefore solid disc's in all corners.

Great points raised, especially over sizing the rear thus locking them up when under weight...as most of the driving will be onroad thetefore minimising the 'oh duck, mother duckkkkkker,....' moments of dispear in front of the kids will win me brownie points with the wife.

I believe to convert the front to vented discs will be expensive compared to the performance gain...plus vs/ or alternatively... applying decent pads with drilled/ vented solid discs all round is a cheaper option with near same results.

However are drilled and vented discs really a major issue when offroading ie collection of stones in the holes thus destroying the pad & disc?? An interesting topic

[Beefing up rear disc's]

Hi,

I have put 300tdi axles onto my Defender 90. My intention (in the future) is to increase the bhp and offroading/ expedition equipment. In which will increase the load on the brakes.

The current 300tdi front disc's are non vented, therefore rather the converting the front callipers to vented and before I sell the redundant 2.5na axle I thought of improving the current rear 300tdi discs with the front discs & callipers from the 2.5NA.

Is this possible and practical?

Can the existed 2.5NA brake cylinder & servo handle it?

Thanks.

[300tdi into defender 90 1986 2.5na wiring problems]

Thanks

[300tdi into defender 90 1986 2.5na wiring problems]

Thanks for the advice.

Ive been round tonight 'in the rain', the things you do for your landy!!

Ive taken the following pic's, can you advise/ clarify my assumptions, all of the below are 2.5na cables:

Photo 010, is the starter cables, 2 x brown wires into 1 connection two off, plus the solenoid brown(red) & yellow wire.

I don't know what the other green wire is for? Could be the cylinder head sensor??

Photo 006, alternator connection block, does anyone know which is th W, D+ & B+?

, i assume the other green wire wihin the alternator loom is for the thermo?

Photo 009, assume the white is the fuel pump soleniod, dont know what the other wire is?

Great advice so far. All making sense. I think for ease, ie get'in on the road, I'll try to use the existing, then improve outside the house ASAP.

When ive looked at the disco 300tdi loom to the 2.5na loom there seems to be major differences, or do I just replace the existing cable (previously mentioned) with larger?

Thanks again

[stopping power]

Hi,

Ive replaced both axles with 300tdi, to ensure the brake arent under servo'd ive replaced the existing servo and master cylinder with the from the 300tdi.

It took a bit of effort to redrill the two mounting holes...then I thought last night 'could I have used the original 2.5na servo with the 300tdi master cylinder?'

Any thoughts and advise greatly welcome

Thanks

[300tdi into defender 90 1986 2.5na wiring problems]

Hi,

Finally I've become an owner of my first land rover.

Unfortunately time isn't on my side, twins on the way, project is on a friends drive, his wife is being very understanding & thus I don't want to push it. Please could someone assist ASAP

We've mounted the 300tdi into the 90, however I've had a couple of issues with the engine wiring. The defender started life as a 2.5na 1986.

Does anyone of a simple easy to follow guide to do this?

I've read that some of the 2.5na cables such as the alternator & starter may not hold enough amp's to accommodate the 300tdi.

Other connections such as the 300tdi cylinder head temperature sensor has dual connections, compared to the 2.5na single.

Hence a easy step by step guide with photos would save me extremely valuable time.

Thanks