g&t
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Posts posted by g&t
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I could'nt agree more with all the replies you've had so far. Take a break from the garage, turn your mind to other things for a while then seek help from other enthusiasts (or even a good independant if needs be) to get it sorted once & for all. Land-Rover products will always have the ability to give their owners stress from time to time but the Classics are still the easiest RR to put right & leave all the later models for dead when it comes to character. Throw in the towel too soon & I'll guarantee you will live to regret it, I have to use an independant for all but the most basic of problems but even with that financial burden the car still brings a smile to my face when I drive it, unlike the four-year-old M..... that's our daily driver
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Later cars had steel floors which you can still get.
News to me, I was under the impression that only Disco panels were still available & that you had to 'join' two together to replace a RRC floor. I stand corrected if I have been mis-informed.
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My vote's for the rad too, recently replaced mine after months of similar symptoms with my 3.5efi, i.e ok in traffic & idling but gradually heating up out on the open road, esp. after only 5 miles at the legal limit. Replaced the rad & reverted to a 88 degree 'stat (from an 82 degree one) job done! 600 mile round trip, mostly on M/ways, the needle never moved from the 'normal'
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Most 80s RR were made of "better" steel than later ones and are less prone to rot. YRM do most of the repair panels now so go for it!
What puzzles me is why you can buy rear floors for the Disco 1 but not for Classics
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Checking vehicles by torchlight is always going to give a less realistic overview compared to a good examination in daylight, but the pre-nineties bodyshells do seem to resist corrosion better (sometimes a lot better) than the later RRC's. I bought an '85 classic in '05 that had obviously been heavily off-roaded & looked like it had been through a war zone but there was suprisingly little rusting.
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Parts like these are probably only available from main dealers, unless you can sus. out what other manuf used them as I doubt they were specific to LR. I'm suprised at just how many of the smaller/obscure components are still available to order, even though many major items are not
If you can find the part numbers themselves (& your local dealer can't help) try entering 'The Part' into your search engine as this will check if any stock is available throughout the UK. -
Genuine screen-wash pump fitted yesterday - this one works
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There was several close shots of a cyprus green RRC that was parked up in last nights 'american chopper' prog on Quest. Think it was being used by the film crew, judging by the gear on the roof-rack.
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Hmmm, thinner glass, would that be introduced along with the concealed hinge doors then?
4mm glass introduced Dec '88, concealed hinges together with deeper sills in May '89. These changes appear to be the last prior to the introduction of the 3.9 in Oct '89
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Even the side glass thickness was reduced by 1mm in '89 to counter claims that the lift-motors were too slow, or so I've heard
My '87 Vogue is corrosion free but that's probably because it was always kept under cover before I bought it two years ago. I'm not able to garage the car so I compromise by using an outdoor 'cap' cover that comes down to the door handles at the sides & below the bottom of the front/rear screens. That way all the rubber seals (inc. the sun-roof) are protected from the weather all year round, bit of a bind to fit/uncover but as I don't use the car daily it's worth the effort. Coupled with a Waxoyl treatment earlier this year I feel I'm doing my bit to preserve the old dutchess. -
Luck has nothing to do with it
Buying Bripart is more like playing russian roulette with a fully chamber revolver
Nige
Further to my reply on the 23rd (I've been away since the 27th) here's another update!
Genuine LR front screen washer pump fitted by independant last Fri 24th, to replace faulty 7 month old BP unit which is being returned under warranty claim. Motor runs but no fluid to the jets
remember this is a genuine LR component! Sent back to main stealer & replacement due to be fitted later this week, I'll post the results! Just covered 630 miles trip (most of it at motorway speeds - no probs so far with BP rad. -
Regardless of the postings here, but more to do with recently seeing such a bar on a RRC I have decided not to go ahead with said 'modification'. On the vehicle in question it appeared to have a definite twist, ie did not sitlevel, regardless of this I did not like the overall appearance!
Good man!
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Luck has nothing to do with it
Buying Bripart is more like playing russian roulette with a fully chamber revolver
They exist becuase people are daft enough to think its cheap,
can't be that bad, and will save themselves loads a money
Nige
I agree with your drift Nige but even those of us who prefer to fit genuine & are prepared to pay for it come un-stuck if the LR parts are no longer available, like my rad for example. Some forum members counter that by shouting 'don't go to BP, use Bearmach or Allmake' but all these people are only agents(?) so where do they scource their parts?
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Recently I posted a problem with a cowl/shroud mating to a Britpart radiator. The problem was resolved thanks to a forum member & I said I would duly report on the performance of the radiator, but I've yet to cover sufficient mileage to comment. What I can report on though is a front screen washer pump, supplied by 'you-know-who' that has lasted barely seven months & less than 900 miles
By the end of this week it will have been replaced by a genuine LR unit (that I was unable to scource at short notice last time) so better luck this time I hope. -
Before you spend any money I'd do a search for the pro's & con's of LPG conversions to Rover V8's. It is a subject with divided opinions & personally, based on my own experiences a few years ago, I would'nt touch the stuff with a barge-pole but if you read the posts you can make your own decision.
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RC. Unfortuately they seem to suffer rust worse than 1990/91 RRC because, I'm told, of cheaper steel employed by LR so good ones are hard to find. It took a year ot find mine and that was before the scrappage scheme
This may induce howls of rage from some owners
but it's my overiding impression that the later the production year of a RRC the worse the corrosion seems to be. -
Utterly untrue!
If you have eyes in your head and any sort of connection between them, your brain and your arms and legs then you absolutely do not need a bull bar off road.
As said above, it is more likely to do more damage to your bodywork than not having one.
I agree, back in the eighties I did a lot of 'laning in series LR's with nothing more than grills over the front lights. Of the five 4x4's I've bought over the last eleven years (four RRC's & a Landcruiser) four came with bull-bars already fitted, each one was removed & sold to someone that thought they 'needed' it. As opinion has stated on this thread a BB looks gross on a RRC
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Look out for a TVR lump, based heavily on the Rover V8 but with ported heads, high lift cams and tuned EFi.
Based on yes, but tuned for poke not grunt & even worse coupled to a slush-box, probably stall when you put it in 'D' The RRC is just not designed for that sort of power anyway & you'd probably kill youself or someone else in the process. Good luck finding an insurer as well I would think.
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Here ya go:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump.htmÂ
Thanks Pete, my existing pump may go on forever but with my luck...
besides it makes the car sound like it's got a loose exhaust baffle! -
Not having any success with the 'search' facility, can I ask if anyone here has cut an access trap for the fuel pump in the floor of a Classic & if so could they reveal the all- important measurements needed for the operation? I know the official method for replacement is to drop the tank etc & some folks suggest removing the floor panel but I don't want to do either as all the bolts (inc. the heavy duty tow kit mountings) have been in place for 24 years & the whole of the underside is covered in Waxoyl anyway.
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The bar fits onto the chassis where the front bumper is bolted, normally using the same bolts to pass through both BB & bumper. If you are retaining the spoiler you will need to cut two vertical slots in it to accomodate the mounting plates. Remember that a bullbar (better described as a brush-bar) will add about 20kg to the front suspension & is only as strong as the chassis leaders that it is bolted to, hit something hard (like a bull
) & you will suffer more frontal damage than if you didn't have the stupid thing on there in the first place Sorry, just my personal opinion. -
Sorted! Many thanks to Bowie69 for his help on this apparently simple problem & most of all the donation of a suitable cowling. I'll report on this forum as to the viability of the Britpart rad in due course. Thanks also to those of you that offered constructive advise.
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it is the lower one not the top one sorry if that has caused any confusion
Although I don't need one myself I wish you well with this. Wonder why M&M stopped making them though, lack of demand (unlikely) or cost?
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No idea but first thing to check is the tpye of wheels, hitch and tyres as these will all give an indication as to its carrying capacity. Check whether it has 4 or 5 stud wheels (think it should have 5 stud to be rated to 3.5 tonnes), add to gether the max load rating on the tyres which should come to somewhere near its rated limit, and check the hitch as this should have a rated max load value on it somewhere. I am sure this will let you know the limit the trailer "should" or "could" be rated at. If it is suitable then perhaps a visit to you local VOSA office will give you the info you need to get a new plate stamped up.
Thanks for that OF, the only info I can gleen from the ad is that the tow-hitch is apparently stamped Bradley 2.6tonne. Being a confirmed cynic I'm starting to smell a rat as the seller claims in the ad that he 'can't remember the make of the trailer' but claims that it 'will carry 2tonnes' Anyway why would anyone steal (as claimed) just the plate.
remember this is a genuine LR component! Sent back to main stealer & replacement due to be fitted later this week, I'll post the results! Just covered 630 miles trip (most of it at motorway speeds - no probs so far with BP rad.
) & you will suffer more frontal damage than if you didn't have the stupid thing on there in the first place
Charging light on
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
I had exactly the same problem with an '89 3.5efi. At first the light would go out some of the time but in the end it glowed all the time the engine was running, at any speed. I think the prob. is caused by a failed diode connected with the battery light itself but if you are getting that voltage at the terminals it's certainly charging. Mine had the fault for over a year 'till I sold the car & the mate who bought it never had any battery problems either.