g&t
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Posts posted by g&t
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I'm thinking of fitting an axillary heater in the RRC as the heater in it at the moment is so temperamental & hardly ever works when you need it most. There not that great either so have been thinking maybe I'd be better off spending my time & money on an axillary heater instead of trying to fix the standard one.
I've never looked into them before so what sort of cost are they & how do they fit, also what powers them?
Or even find out why your own heater is not working properly. I've had four RRC's & can't describe any of their heaters as poor although the output obviously cannot match that of a modern car. In my current '87 you cannot travel any distance at higher speeds without turning down the heat (even with the weather we are experiencing now) & I only ever need the fan when moving at lower speeds. Is it the case that the heater unit doesn't get hot or that heat is not entering the car's interior?
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Evening all,
I have been offered a RR 4.6 HSE of unknown quality. The vendor is happy for me to examine as closely as I like but unfortunately I am not in a position to be able to drive it so check whether it uses water. I already own a P38 but a diesel one so I am not familiar with the coolant loss problem on these engines although of course I have heard about it.
The question is, how do I check if this particular engine is suffering from this problem. Are there any tell tale signs that will point it out to me whilst stationary?
Dave
Unknown quality & unable to drive? Walk away my friend, if you must have a V8 (I suggest you trawl through the various forums first!) there are plenty out there with a service record.
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My old RRC 78 chassis has had an early 90's body fitted but I'd like to go back to the period look grille and decals, I recently acquired an old grille and light surrounds but does any one know if I have to fit plastic bowls or other trickery as I'd light to keep the later more powerful lights. Any info apperciated.
Will
I'm not sure I follow your train of thought here. I can't see how you can achieve the 'period look' of the '78 when you've got a four door body? Anyway, the grilles should swap but hopefully the rest will be answered by someone who has done the same work.
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paid £475 for mine on an e plate last june. very solid and only mechanical problem was a broken viscous coupling on the fan. Interior pretty good, few loose switch panels & bits of trim, no MOT but i think it would pass depending on how picky the inspector was. Stuf like the rear wash wipe isn't worked.
All i wanted was one that was solid to start with!
Just sold my '89 3.5efi to a friend for £300 with no MOT. Needed rear seat-belt mounts welding & a set of front dampers, plus a few 'advisory's' Currently in Belgium this weekend (in the snow) with 3 up & a boot full of gear!
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Hi All i'm new to all this and i would like your Help Please
Ive been offerd a range rover 35 F reg SE , its been sitting on his drive for just over a year it starts up and runs but it seems that the choke is stuk on , it needs a exhaust and a mot as to rust its not to bad sills all ok , i just need no how much its worth, it has just over 62k and 3 owners.
Can you help and is it worth spending time and money on ?????
Paul
Re. the 'choke on' remark: If it's an F reg. the engine is EFI (Oct'85 on) They don't like not being used, especially the 'Joe Lucas' electrics, which could be the cause of the engine probs. Just sold mine for £300 with no MOT (rear seat belt mounts & front shocks) Rampant corrosion is the biggest problem, due to carp rust-proofing, but find a (rare) really nice one & you'll be glad you did. The 3.5efi is the least complex, with the strongest engine block of all the Rover V8's. Might be worth putting it through an MOT, just to see what needs doing?
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Regardless of what your garage man say's, if you cannot turn a lifted front wheel (transfer box in neutral & handbrake on) then the VCU has seized. The following test, carried out within days of an Ashcroft's recon unit being fitted to a RRC, may be of help to owner's with the same query/concerns: Fit a 27mm socket onto a torque wrench with about a 20 inch long handle, set the wrench for 30ft/lbs & place the socket on a wheelnut that is at the 3'o clock position (driver's side wheel). If you then apply GENTLE pressure clockwise (tightening) you should be able to turn the wheel without 'breaking' the wrench.
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Don't want to sound a note of gloom but noises from auto-boxes are invariably bad news due to their need for specialist attention. What is the mileage on the 'box & more to the point, what is the state of the fluid?
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Hi all. As a newbie I'm impressed by not only the level of expertise on this forum but also the way posts are (shall we say) 'phrased' Now for the question: Having recently folded the drivers side mirror on my RRC I found that, once returned to the 'driving' position, it seems to be slightly loose. There appears to be a 'plug' in the underside of the housing, but (a) is it removable & (b) would it provide access to any nut/bolt/screw that would allow the mirror head to be tightened?
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If I have got this right you are assuming that the low comp. readings are the result of the overheating incident. Did you ever do a comp. test prior to this, if not then how can you be sure that the readings were not low before? If the engine/car runs ok I would'nt fret, at least until something else shows up like (dare I say) a slipped liner, in which case your ears will tell you!
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Sorry guys, this is what happens when you are an old fart & post after midnight when you should be in bed! The V8 was of course the Meteorite (not Meteor)& had an output of about 260brake, think of the torque though!
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Meteor was the V8 incarnation of the Merlin, used in the MK1 Thorneycroft 'Mighty Antar' tank transporter. Might be a tad heavy on the front suspension, wasn't that pokey for it's 18 ltr. capacity & not RR's finest creation either.
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Strange how owner's experiences differ: I've had four RRC's, three 3.5's & one 3.9 (never again!) & have always used Champions without any problems. Invoices that came with my last 3.5efi detailed problems with 'misfiring' cured by replacing plugs on three occassions & reference to the part nos. showed the plugs to be NGK. None of the 3.5's have run on LPG or been off-roaded so perhaps that makes a difference(?) Strangely enough a NGK plug is specified for my lawnmower & that never lasts for more than a couple of seasons either!
What sort of axillary heaters can you get?
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
The reluctant fan could just be a switch problem, especially if there's a 'lack of use' issue. Is the air flap (under the dash) opening? For the '87 model year LR (in their infinate wisdom) changed the simple 'lever & rod' mechanism to a 'switch & vaccum servo' system but I don't know if this was 'modified' again for later years like your's. If you have the aforementiond set up then a common fault is that the small bore rubber pipe, that enters the interior around the parcel shelf area, has come off the servo unit on the left-hand side of the heater. With the engine running, you should hear the flap operating when you move the 'fresh air/recirculate' switch.