Les Henson
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Posts posted by Les Henson
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A raised air intake and a snorkel are not the same thing
les
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Don't help Mo - he's beyond it
Ralph.
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Standard piston ring set is STC1427. There are 3 rings per piston - 2 compression, and one oil scraper (which is in 2 parts). Bear in mind that oversize pistons will have different ring sets/ part numbers, so you need to know if your pistons are standard or oversize. You can fit new rings by hand if you don't mind cutting your fingertips
You will also need a ring compressor or be a bit handy with 2 small screwdrivers. The ring grooves will need decarbonising, and you use a broken piece of the old ring to do that. There will also be a 5-6mm strip of carbon at the top of each bore, which you will need to remove - usually with a steel or brass wire brush in an electric drill.
Don't buy britpart - no matter what it is. Unless of course you like dismantling engines
Les
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One from the gearbox, one from the transfer box, and one each from the axles. Breather kits are quite cheap and you can either link them and then have one pipe above the bulkhead, or 4 separate ones.
Les
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I always kept my wading plugs in (you never know what will happen). Once a week or so I would remove them and see what comes out. It's recommended that if you expect to drive through deep water/mud, then stop, fit the plugs and then continue (how ridiculous is that?) Muddy water is highly abrasive, so damage in the timing case and excessive corrosion and wear in the bell housing (mostly to the clutch). With the plugs in, then air intake and alternator are at risk. A snorkel (not a raised air intake) will eliminate another problem, but the alternator is almost impossible to water proof. Usually the battery light will come on and then go off after a while, but immersion can ruin it. If you have the plugs fitted and a snorkel, plus inconsideration for your alternator, then it comes down to how long you can hold your breath
Les
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Valve caps are used on 2.5 N/A, TD, and TDi engines. They are there to prevent damage to the top of the valve stem and rocker. Typically the valve stem will be hammered over, and there will also be a hole in the rocker pad. For the sake of about £8, you could be looking at new rockers and valves. If the tappet gaps are correct, then whoever set them was a complete idiot.
Les
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Lift pump diaphragm can split and you will then have a leak. You should also bear in mind that the fuel may well also be leaking into the sump. The lift pump is driven by the camshaft, so be careful of leaking diesel 'washing' oil off the cam lobe and causing lobe wear. Remove the oil filler cap and smell the 'oil'. If it smells of diesel, then don't start the engine.
Les.
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If the rocker assembly is off you can rotate the cam and crank with no risk of damage.
To remove the cam sprocket - slacken the bolt a few turns, apply pressure from behind with a large screwdriver or pry bar and then give the sprocket a sharp rap with a hammer.
Make sure you don't lose the woodruff key.
Les.
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Don't buy anything that's britpart
Les
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I personally prefer to use a lipped crank sprocket to keep the belt in line. The reason for that is there is no bearing to fail as there is in a lipped tensioner.
Les.
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Just buy the kit you have linked to. You can buy anything else if you subsequently need to. I've never once had the need to replace a timing cover
Les.
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The only need to replace the crank sprocket (I take it that's what you mean?) is because the factory item was prone to failure in that the lip was a separate item held on by 4 spot welds, which quite often separated and then caused timing belt failure. The later sprocket is one piece and is a permanent repair.
Les
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The seal guide should already be fitted, but it's not a problem to put it back. It is there to prevent the lip flipping or being damaged whilst fitting. Put the guide back, fit the seal, and once in place, remove the guide. It will be pushed out to some extent - depending on how far it is 'in'. Make sure the end of the crank is clean before fitting and use a small amount of grease or oil. You are not supposed to use any lubricant but I always have done and have never had one fail.
Les
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You may find that exhaust clamps will be very rusty and then break when you try to undo them. Separating one part of the system from another is not always as simple as pulling them apart and usually needs belting with a soft mallet. If you only need to get the exhaust out of the way, then unhooking the mounting rubbers means that it will drop down out of the way under it's own weight. You may need to restrict how far it drops by supporting it or tying it when it's down far enough. Similarly, the prop may only need disconnecting from the diff and tying out of the way. Having said that, sometime removing a component completely makes the intended job a lot easier.
Les.
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You don't need the timing cover (unless you don't have one at present). You only need belt, tensioner/idler, crank sprocket, timing cover gasket, timing cover dust seal, and crank seal. I would guess about £100 from Bearmach.
This what you need -
Les.
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It just said remove the driveshafts and lower the subframe. I'm fairly sure it means the rear prop. There's not much else you need to keep an eye on with the exception of brake lines, etc.
Les.
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Did a quick search and it appears you have to lower (not remove) the subframe.
Les
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I have always used Bearmach kits. Dayco belt, and one-piece crank sprocket.
Les
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Your engine is what is known as an interference engine, in that timing setting is critical in order to prevent piston/valve contact and subsequent damage. If you think that there's a possibility that turning either the crank or cam by hand will cause piston/valve contact, then undo the tappet adjusters as far as they will go. That way, the valves will not open at all. You can then set the crank/cam/injector pump timing as per this thread -
Les
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I've used Turbo Technics a few times. Excellent service, quality, and price.
Les
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I've done quite a lot of 300TDi timing belts and I've never yet seen a tensioner with a lip on it (the crank sprocket has a lip to keep the belt in place).
Les.
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I bought a new, galvanised S1 fuel tank and was told to use special metals primer first or the paint won't stick to it very well.
Les
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What model is it?
Les
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16 hours ago, Steve King said:
I take it you go for the "Eco Look" then Les!
Nothing wrong with a bit of dirt here and there
Converted 90 has starting issue
in International Forum
Posted
Sticky starter motor brushes will cause these symptoms - even a relatively new one. Also a new battery can be faulty. Usually if a jump start ALWAYS works, then I would suspect starter motor. Starter motors typically have 4 rotor brushes, and the failure of one or two gives you what is commonly known as a lazy starter. A jump start typically gives a lot more amps and that then allows 2 or 3 brushes to crank the engine over sufficiently to start it. This sort of thing is very difficult to diagnose and usually requires replacement of the suspect component. Do you know the make of the starter motor and battery?
Les