Les Henson
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Posts posted by Les Henson
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I would do the tappets first as it would be easier to turn the cam in order to set the gap rather than turn the whole engine via the crank.
Just make sure none of the pistons are at TDC when you do it.
Les.
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Always undo the adjusters when replacing the pushrods. They may be fractionally longer/shorter than the old ones.
Les
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I had a discectomy about 15 years ago and no problems at all afterwards. Hope this otherwise interesting thread isn't going off topic.
Les.
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With the pushrods out the cam should turn very easily - it only driving the vacuum pump and lift pump. If it will not turn at all then something is jamming it.
Les
Les
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If you want to check the bore using a piston ring, then you really need to use a new one to check for ovality. General bore wear can be determined by fitting the old ring placed squarely 1/3 of the way down the bore and measuring ring gap. With a new re-bore matched to the pistons should ensure all are the same. Things that could affect that are really small ends or other problems - diesel wash/injector problems, etc, but I would expect piston crown evidence to show that.
Les
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If you try to turn the camshaft with the crank in the timing position you may well be trying to push a valve down onto a piston crown which will bend pushrods. If you set the timing before starting work, then you cannot turn the cam. If you have to turn the cam, then unscrew all the tappet adjusters so that the valves remain closed irrespective of turning either the cam or the crank. I will be hard work to turn the cam by hand anyway as you will be trying to open or close the valves.
Les
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No, I had to use the inverter control panel to do it. It wasn't a problem at all as it was on the wall nearby.
Les
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I bought a 1970's Startrite pillar drill from a local surplus engineering shop for £120. It was 3 phase, but instead of messing about buying the right single phase motor for it I bought an inverter for £50 from e-blag and it was controlled by an electronic panel instead. Absolutely excellent piece of kit. Smooth as silk and as good as any you can buy nowadays.
Les.
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I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole for that kind of money.
Les
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I agree with Tal. Blower motor relay is stuck.
Les
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Using or not using water flow through the head for a heater has no effect at all on engine cooling.
Les
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Highly unlikely. The liners should be slightly proud of the deck and are effectively clamped down when the head bolts are tightened. If one is moving with the head is on then your engine is wrecked. I would look for worn cam, worn/dished lifter(s), sticking valves,etc.
Les
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It's highly unlikely that pistons are slapping the head - your engine would be terminally damaged it it was. It. Don't overtighten the head bolts or they may well snap which may need sump removal.
Les.
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Have you now had the head skimmed twice? Did you use just a new head gasket or a head gasket repair kit?
Les
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I only come on here because I hate everybody and like to wind people up
Les
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Someone has sprayed that while it was partially dismantled. The duck egg blue is the ex military colour I think. If that was gen ex military then everything (and I mean everything) would be painted.
Les
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This thread is disco 1 front hub/swivel rebuild - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601
I don't recognise that spacer.
Les
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The cork L-shaped gaskets are for the rear crankshaft, so unless you are going to dismantle the entire engine - you don't need them. In my experience there are never instructions or even a list of the contents of any kit.
Les
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It's the needle rollers that are difficult - both to remove and replace. The cage is very delicate so you need the right drift to fit them without damage. You can heat the stub axle and freeze the needle rollers to make it easier.
Les.
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With the chest off the best thing to use is a socket or similar of a slightly smaller diameter.
Les
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Make sure the nose of the crank is clean as well as the machined housing where the seal fits. Lightly grease the housing and the outer edge of the seal as well as the lip. Gently tap the seal in (it'll only go so far but make sure it's square and you don't damage it while fitting). When you fit the crank sprocket put a thin film of grease on the land (the part of the sprocket that sits in the seal) See this thread - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7880
Les
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Bearmach don't do britpart as far as I'm aware. My local main dealer does though and although they were marked as genuine they were most definitely not, so went back for decent stuff.
Les
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I fitted a britpart pump for a customer and within a week it was toast. He overheated on the motorway so pulled over and as he did so the nost of the pump - complete with pully still bolted to it - clattered a few feet further along the hard shoulder.
Les
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It sounds like your engine is running away to me.
Les
Expert help Required
in Series Forum
Posted
The circular dents will most likely have been caused by the absence of valve caps. When these are missing the top of the valve stem hammers a hole in the rocker lobe and also hammers over the top of the valve stem. The rocker assembly can be dismantled, but you have to take care that you reassemble it correctly. Take lots of pictures as you dismantle it as referring to them when you put it back together will be a great help.
Les