Les Henson
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Posts posted by Les Henson
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I painted my last 109 with Hammerite with Waxoyl. I was very pleased with it.
Les.
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That is awful. Someone should just punch the seller in the face.
I'm not sure about Mad max - more of a dodgy Gilbert thing really.
Les
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Range Rovers never break - pure and simple
Les
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Look for something different to blame it on?
I suppose a question of do they ever wear is not an easy answer to find online? Is there a wear assessment section in Rave?
There's no replacement interval as there is with belts, so the need to replace it is when you tend to have do it. Some cars are more prone to chain replacement than others, but it's mostly down to high mileage, poor servicing, etc, that makes them stretch beyond the tensioners limits. A worn chain will have slack in it, as the tensioner has either reached it's limits, or other reasons. So if you have slack in the chain, then timing will be affected. Chains should always be replaced as a kit in my opinion, as every thing tends to wear - stretched chain, tensioner failure/beyond limits, slipper/guides worn.
Les
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Just had a quick look on autodata. 2 timing chains, 4 slippers/guides, and the tensioner itself, plus gaskets and replacement cam and crank bolts, so a kit to do the job properly. Also requires removal of head and sump to do the whole job. In my experience - replacement of the lower chain is rarely necessary, as it's a short chain from the crank to the injector pump and the tensioner is on it. It may be possible to replace just the upper chain, but it's behind the lower chain. It then depends if there's enough room to remove the sprocket and then upper chain only.
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Vauxhall Corsa is the same. You have to remove the head just because of a couple of locating dowels and everything attached to the timing cover has to come off or at least disconnected and moved out of the way. Replacing the chain itself isn't particularly more difficult than a belt, but takes a lot more time to get at. Some vehicles require the removal of the sump as well, such as BMW 3 series.
Les.
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I have AutoData on my pc which I use for timing belts, chains, labour times, etc. What year is yours and I'll look it up.
Les.
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You could use angle iron or box section and just rivet lengths of it through the seat box alloy panels. You can buy both in quite small profile, such as 15mm or even less.
Les
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You won't need to run it for 2 minutes. It might take a few goes to get it going, but during that period there will be very little heat generated. Once it starts, let it idle briefly, then rev it and allow to return to idle. You might expect some initial smoke, but the throttle response and the sound of the engine will tell you if all is ok. If the injector pump is even 1 tooth out it will be plainly obvious.
Les.
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You could just keep an eye on it. If it works loose then the head will have to come off again. Getting a helicoil insert fitted isn't that expensive.
Les
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I think the idea is to remove the original heat shield and replace with an aftermarket one. Unless your engine is jumping around more that it should, I would say that the under bonnet soundproofing is loose/not attached properly.
Les
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Worth a grand even it was a non runner. I would snap it up.
Les.
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Aside from the issues of what appears be a dirty job, I'm REALLY struggling to understand why you have taken this route in order to just bleed the brakes more effectively (how often do you need to bleed brakes). The bleed nipple still in the best position, which is at the highest point of the wheel. All that work and I guess the expense of it (I guess vehicle Modification inspectors charge).
You can do it easier, quicker, possibly safer, in a cheaper way by just altering the pipework -
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I recently inspected a swb s3 that was in very good condition. Not tax exempt or anything. It had the original 2.25 petrol engine in it, was a bit tatty on the inside, and the wiring was a bit butchered. Otherwise it was quite tidy. The chassis had been welded in quite a few places and the rear crossmember had been replaced. Welding quality was good - if a bit lumpy in places. The guy bought it for £3500.
Les
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Be very careful when replacing the seal. You can easily flip the lip or damage it.
Les
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Take them out and hang them up. The carpet is hard enough to dry, but the insulation is something else and will smell awful after a while.
Les.
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You can replace the seal in situ as I have shown. If diesel has got on the belt then you will have to replace it as well as premature failure is a distinct possibility.
Les.
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I think this one is the most likely to fit - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBO-BLANKET-HEAT-SHIELD-TURBOCHARGER-WRAP-COVER-T3-T28-T25-BLUE/262613306392?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D39012%26meid%3Dc7bf1db2603e42e4958e64c2d3a435df%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D162126892892 Not too sure how you would attach it though. Tie wire or similar I would expect.
Les
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The pipe on the right is too short, so you would have to replace it anyway by the looks of it, so you have gained nothing. Re-piping it seems to be easier and a far better option than what you have done (how often do you need to bleed a braking system anyway once it's done?).
You say Vehicle Modification Inspector, What is one of those? I googled it extensively and nothing in the UK came up. Is this person a government approved inspector that then supplies some kind of paperwork or certificate that your customer and insurance company will accept? Does your customer know or previously agreed to his brakes being modified in this way and has spoken to his insurers before hand? I think if he told his insurers that the brakes had been altered they would want some kind of official certificate to state that they are still within acceptable limits. You also say a 'brake testing machine' what exactly did you use ?Les
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I've owned 2 109's
I believe the turning circle is a measly 38 feet :), Lock to lock should be controlled by the lock stops on the swivel housings, but the steering box will do that as well if the lock stops are missing or out of range. To check where the problem is you really need to disconnect the steering box from the rest of the system and count turns from one lock to the other and then centre the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. You then adjust everything else to match the straight ahead position and you then will have equal turns in either direction.
Les
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I stripped and repaired a S1 water pump a few years ago and rebuild kits were available for series vehicles back then. The assembly is press fitted, so in order to take one apart you really need a suitable hydraulic press or be very careful with a hammer and a suitable drift.
Les
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Could be lift pump valve failure or possibly the fuel pick up pipe in the tank.
Les
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Can you or have you tried a tow start?
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Cover for the disco and then plate and thrust bearing for the gearbox. I don't know if you'll need to do any modifications though.
Les
Best way to clean a Defender white roof
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I wasn't aware that you are supposed to clean them
Les