western
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Posts posted by western
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James, a little low tech but cheaper... How about dumping the ECU, speed sensor etc. and converting the OD to manual operation? I guess that the ECU is only an idiot filter to prevent he OD being engaged in 1st low and at low speeds? The overdrive itself must be engaged by means of a solenoid which, with a relay, could run from the switch on the stick and be made to operate the light too. Mind you, having seen the epic of you attempting to fit a CB radio... Perhaps I have misunderstood how these ODs work but Triumph owners managed for years without idiot filters.
Chris
The ECU & speed sensor prevent engagement below 30mph, if the OD is engaged & the speed drops below 30 it automatically drops out, but if the switch is left in the on position, when speed increases above 30 it re-engages. also it cannot be used in 1st/2nd high or low range, to much torque would be put throught the OD, it's usable in 3/4/5 high as a OD & in 3/4 as a splitter gear similar to HGV gearboxes.
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Yep, all done on Saturday with Les, old one had slippage marks & judder marks, reckon the slipping was down to grease or fingerprints on the pressure plate face, new one was well cleaned with a oil/grease free cleaning fluid that Les uses, I'm
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Hi,
Any cheap solutions to convert rear Defender drum brake Salisbury to disc? Have looked at Zeus conversion, but way to expensive.
Diesel_Jim knows about this job, he's in the process of doing it, & I'm collecting the parts to swap mine to rear disc.
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thats the detent housing, the ball bearing is available seperatly part number is 571146, does it engage reverse with that part off the vehicle, if not it could be a badly adjusted reverse light switch causing the problem.
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I've added a link from this thread to the Tech Archive.
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All the info in this post
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Neil
28 front & 35 psi rear, for normal day to day/lightly loaded, with a full heavy load &/or trailer up the rears to 48psi, used these figures on all my tyres on my 110, without any excessive wear problems
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JST, I had that problem, new speed sensor as mentioned by the others sorts it out, not sure if it's from a outside supplier or a in-house GKN made part.
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Not sure about lekky fan wiring, only cos my diesel hasn't got one, so can't really advise from 1st hand, IIRC X-eng include wiring info with the switch unit, Si is probbly the best person to ask.
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works now, I know it was posted a while ago, just confirming.
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Possibly from a 2nd generation RR either the V8 4.0Litre engine or the BMW diesel.
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in the pipe from injection pump to turbo will tell you how much boost the turbo is producing, fitted into the inlet manifold should indicate how much the engine is receiving IIRC, I would want to know if the turbo was producing it's correct boost & fit into the booost pipeline.
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Ralph
Just as I thought. Will have to sit them side by side to be sure. Many thanks for the help.
no probs,
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At the Tee joint just in front of the turbo,
the vacuum gauge can be connected to the vacuum pump outlet to the brake servo hose.
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IIRC the underscreen vent grilles are rivtted on, you could have removed them before getting it blasted/galvanised
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Well, that's stuffed that idea/plan
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Ralph
As the Font of all things LandRover. Is there any difference in the PAS pump on a 200TDI Defender and Disco? Is it the hose connections? Angle of hoses when they attach or the nose length where it fits to the plate then the pulley? I'm converting a Disco lump to a Def front end. ie timing chest, alt and pas setup. I've got it all covered except the pas pump.
Many thanks in advance for any words of wisdom
EPC tells me the Discovery 200Tdi pump is ETC8288, doesn't show the hose connections.
Defender 200Tdi pump is ETC8287 upto engine serial number -- 11L22454A
or NTC9070 from engine number 11L22455A. [as fitted to my 110] hoses are a banjo fitting on the rear vertical face & a stub pipe on the body barrel. [hose pushed on & secured with a jubilee clip] hope that helps.
mounting plate to engine is different to.
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Walfy, try the TIM gauges available from Demon Tweeks
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What are you planning now Barker?
don't ask stupid questions
just send him the pics & measurments 
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EPC says No, the oil cooler pipes are different,
300Tdi auto uses ESR3239 & ESR3240 for the long rectangular style oil cooler.
doesn't mention 200Tdi/auto but goes on chasis numbers, so assuming upto KA064754 is a 200Tdi/auot vehicle, these used ESR2290 & ESR3240 --- These are for the bog brush type oil cooler unit.
can't e.mail you any EPC pages as I'm not near a printer/scanner.
next time try harder to stump me
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Good feeling isn't it Mike, I know after replacing the main loom in my 110 a few months ago.
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Paul
200Tdi & 300Tdi radiator doesn't have a drain, just pull off the bottom hose, for the engine --- rear of the dipstick & on the horizontal rib just rear of the turbo oil to sump hose is the cooling system drain plug, don't know the spanner size, but defo bigger than 17mm, hth
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check wiring & the push part of the stalk, you can pop the end off with a small screwdriver, might be the contacts are dirty/worn, but most likely a duff horn.
Lighting Fault
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just unplug & tape up the plug to prevent any short circuits, all the lights will work as normal.
Dim dip was brought in to prevent vehicles being driven in towns/built up areas on sidelights only as a way of making the vehicle more visible to pedestrians. dim dip seems to have died out on new vehicles now.