Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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Yeah seen lots of those, currently planning on locating a water tank there otherwise i'd opt for that too. I'm meaning over the window area.
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Hi,
I'm making some mods to my defender to do a bit more travelling about. one thing we've identified is the need/want of an external side storage box above the tub. Not a gullwing hatch, an actual external box. Like this... https://www.devon4x4.com/static/workshop/workshop-projects/defender-90-creature-comforts-build/side-lockers/
Other than the link, anyone know of any manufacturers of something like that?
Cheers
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Cool thread, ive got a bit of experience to weigh in. i drive an EV as a daily and work on BEV construction methods.
Few key points for me:
I have put 14000 on an EV from new, charged it appropriately and seen no deteriation in range.
Driven all over the UK, and often set off on drives with no planning knowing i dont have enough charge to do it, but there's plenty of apps to support on the fly planning, although ill accept ive had a few fustrating public charger problems.
I own a 110 which we've had since 1994 and ill never sell, i've extensively modified it, got rid of land rovers rubbish engine options and swapped to BMW.
The 110 on normal sub 200mile drives costs 24 times that of the EV this means it doesnt get driven because naturally you jump for the cheaper car.
The classic car debate is all great, but for me, making the 110 EV, makes the drive so much better and makes it a car that you dont leave sitting there. I dont buy the "its the character" im sure they thought the ford model T or whatever were the same but no one wants a brake lever now!
Conversion options ive looked at
Tesla model 3 rear drive unit in place of the LT230, efficiency is important and I do value power, they normally need the inverter board replaced to work standalone (openinverter.org) also the ratio will need swapping to work with our diffs
100kwh pack is a minimum, best case i estimate a 110 would get upto 2 miles per kwh, this is always going to be the sticking point
Around 60kwh of batteries will fit in the engine bay and 40kwh will go underslung in place of the fuel tank/side underfloor. Tesla model S models lend themselves to it well, but LG pattern pouch modules or VW ID.4 modules could work well
Many tesla or oem components can be reused such as contactors, pre-charge, DC/DC, and charger but normally the BMS needs to be aftermarket but items like orion BMS are good and proven
There's nothing unsafe or dodgy about the HV element if done right, we drive cars with PAS fluid under hundreds of bar and pressurised flammable fuel... the correct multi shrouded cables are available you just need to keep yourself safe while working live.
No idea if i would do it in a year or in 10 years, but it has to happen at some point. My 2p worth
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16 hours ago, landroversforever said:
That looks great! Any reason for not going the full width of the garage?
Yeah 2 main reasons. One was the cost, lept up significantly as i would have needed to go up a size on the rafters and with the length of them and the current climate they would have been very pricey. Second was we are hoping to do an extension which would eat into the space a little so a little future proofing..but mostly reason one! 😋
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Just now, Anderzander said:
Well done ! and a cobra in a rather nice colour on the way in the garage too !?
That Cobra is the bane of my life, it's sat there sulking at me for not building it!
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All quite proud of this so thought I would share. Wanted a dry space to keep the rain off the truck for ages, finally did something about it...
Fitting chemical anchors into the ground and the garage wall to support a large beam to span the door (under the pavers is a 300mm deep concrete pad)
Putting the post and main beam up
Adding the main beams
then the stability supports
On with the rafters
Then the roof and a side stability support
All done
Took all week as we hit a few issues as you do but no compromises and super happy with it, still have full access to the garage, strong, loads of clearance and its quite a bit longer than the 110 and best of all, fraction of the price of a professional one!
Adam
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Interesting.
Also just to note, the nut came loose on mine after about 200miles, retightened and it hasn't changed after a further 1700miles. Nut came to rest around 45degrees further on than before.
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21 hours ago, Maverik said:
I'd love to give this a go... but I'm worried it would pull up so many transmission issues it would melt my wallet and drive me insane trying to solve the problems
Watch this space 🤣🤣🤣
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Yeah it's not cheap and the cost really did hold me back for a while. But without it I do wonder if I might have made the mistake and replaced my front diff as the backlash is quite large.
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Thought I would do a little mini-write up on my experience of dealing with Vibrations, and may continue it if interesting.
So, like lots of other people I did lots of work to my 110 over COVID, a lot of the focus being on sealing, closures, insulation, damping etc to the point that when the windows and vents are closed I can actually say I have a quiet truck (Well it's all relative right?!)!!!
One thing that was driving me nuts was a very obvious vibration between 35 and 39mph, independent of clutch, load or gear. Did the obvious. Looked for play in bearings, pinions, UJs, lost wheel weights etc. And while I found a little slack in my rear propshaft slider nothing seemed particularly wrong.
So naturally leaning towards being a bit of a nerd I looked for a more scientific approach, it's the modern age right!? Found a youtube video about an app....
Was a little dubious, especially using it on a vehicle with the refinement development level of a lawnmower, but the reviews seemed pretty good and in general I was more curious than anything so got it.
Setting the app up is very easy, I have a M57 engine, TD5 R380, disco 2 LT230 1.211 and standard sized tyres, so had to put those in manually, which is easy using the unlisted vehicle option.
Plumb in the figures:
Then you just hit start and go for a drive, go and find that vibration and hit record
You then get a live screen and any trouble areas shine up red as you drive, it uses all the ratios and speeds to work out what everything is, simple and clever.
Once you are happy you have a good record you stop and save the recording, you then get the report, this was my first go from a 17 second recording:
Pretty sure of itself that it's a second order driveshaft speed related vibration (2 shakes per revolution of those parts)
and a full report:
When you click the button 'How do i fix this Vibration?' you get some great guidance
Then you have to engage your brain and follow the logical steps, my car is standard ride height and all mounts are good so ruled those out. I was already thinking at this point about that rear propshaft slider, but that would only give me a first order vibration (Which a first order vibration was just showing on the report), however that seemed like a good place to start anyway, getting a bit aggressive with the UJs and putting a DTI showed one of the UJs had play, not a huge amount but enough to determine it was bad and needed solving. Did the same on the front shaft and no apparent issues in the UJs or slider, so went and replaced the rear shaft.
Took it for another test drive and ran another report, but the vibration was still there so didn't add much extra value, values were a little less, but definitely not solved. At this point I was really hoping it wasn't differential related so took off the front propshaft to inspect further. Top UJ was very very stiff, no play but definitely no good, wrap on the yokes didn't reseat so 2 new GKN UJs. Installed, took it for a drive, no different but checking the UJs both had play in them now! hmm, maybe the prop is just rubbish or suspect UJs, hate doing UJs and trying to grease between the lobes so got a wide angle propshaft, wanted one for ease of maintenance anyway.
Took it up to about 10mph, million times worse. what?! So knowing I've ruled it all out and fixed the known issues, looked at the next suggestion, phasing, new propshaft was in-line with the markings suggesting that's correct and old prop was out of phase. So after lots of googling I learnt of the non-paralleled element of the front flanges so thought about re-phasing it, but refused to as that would then just unbalance the shaft, so checked my old propshaft, that was out of phase but actually the wrong way, the short end was 1 spline clockwise whereas google suggested 2 splines anti-clockwise, so re-clocked it....
But then decided that's also a bit mute as the UJs are suspect and who knows what balance it was at. So went to Gwyn lewis and got one of their lovely shafts:
As you can see, correctly phased and balanced in that condition, fitted to the vehicle and went for several drives at different speeds:
Solved
Was an interesting experiment I must admit and I do think it's a great use of technology. I think I would recommend it as it certainly reduces problem solving time, but obviously only if the problems are not obvious, in my case I wouldn't have considered the phasing aspect and that's something new about defenders I've now learnt.
It's now telling me I have a potentially out of round tyre/wheel and some basic engine vibrations, I think I can tell but they are not significant. But I may continue down the rabbit hole out of interest. For now I'm happy this particular vibration is solved before a long Scotland run!
Adam
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Hear all the genuine mentions, i do get it, but its not like land rover manufacture them theirselves, they come from someone, granted, not britpart.
The britpart and allmakes i looked at measured identically, taper and spline profile both different to my old arm.
Received the RTC6398 from paddock, unsure of the manufacturer as it came with a ball joint and no brand sticker and their picture does not have the balljoint (not complaining there!), appearance wise of the casting does not look like normal aftermarket, looks more like the original. It has the same casting numbers as my old arm and this one has no alignment slot, odd.
Left to right, my old arm, the 4 bolt arm then the 6 bolt
Measurement wise, none are exactly the same, but i am using verniers manually, the 6 bolt arm is very close to my old arm and has similar splines but the spline length is 1mm less, the 4 bolt arm is markedly different to the other 2.
Fitted well, freely fitting, no pressing etc. tightened and loosened it a few times to be sure it's seated, fits up to what i would say is correct.
I've paint marked all joints and will keep an eye on it for a little while, if anything seems off, i'll swap the whole box.
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Thanks for the offer, but i've got one coming from Paddocks in the morning. This mini saga has cost me quite a bit of on road time!
I considered converting mine to the disco setup at the start but i already have sumo bars and im glad i didnt as it wouldn't have fitted anyway!
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My chassis is all normal at least! Just struggling with getting the RTC6398 lically so will do an express delivery order from someone on monday then see what's what!
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Other than the alignment slot visually they appear identical. The old one the spline hole is off centre a bit.
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Hello all,
1988 110, PAS, 4 Bolt Box, Proof i'm not being crazy and it is a RHD adwest 4 bolt pas box...
Bit of an odd one to me this one, brief background, had a loose ball joint on the drop arm, no problem, just swap it in situ, in the process the old upper cup for the balljoint simply just came out with no pressure, new balljoint cup was loose, assume it's spun and worn. So, new drop arm.
Old arm came off fairly easily, bit of puller pressure and off it came. Procured the new arm for the 4 bolt PAS box a QFW000020. Went to fit it and push it on by hand, this is all the engagement I got...
So assuming it was just 'newness' and paint etc, tightened the nut up to see if that was it, definitely not, engagement about 8mm shy of what it needs to be.
Old one, slips straight on no issues
So i've ruled out the obvious, splines are all clean, rust free and in good condition.
Old and new arm have all the right splines however the old arm taper is very very slightly larger than the new arm. Also the splines in the old arm are 'sharper and thinner' while the new arms are 'blunt'. Lastly the alignment 'slot' on the back of the old arm does not accept a 8mm bolt, the new arm does.
Been to a land rover parts place near me and compared my new Britpart arm to another new allmakes arm, identical and both measure the same, confirming that my drop arm is indeed different and it's not a defect. The old arm has a casting number of BD2295604 but that doesn't seem to mean much really.
So my current thinking is this. I somehow have a gemmer 6 bolt output shaft inside my 4 bolt adwest box so I need the old RTC6398 arm. The box was reconned about 15 years ago and has very little play in all that time.
I do know that if you accidentally fit a 6 bolt gemmer arm to a 4 bolt box, it will fit, but is guarrenteed to loosen over time, which would make sense with my logic above. But from what I can see, this is unique. Also I have found other forum threads of 6 bolt owners with arms that don't engage fully which seem to be because they have been sent 4 bolt arms, which again follows with my assumption.
Thoughts, do i have a confused steering box that thinks it's a hybrid?
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We only use spring bands on coolant hoses on our cars at work, as mentioned above, it's essentially the only thing OEMs use now, they are better than thread based clamps due to their ability to move and have a longer service life.
However, they only work if you have the right sized pipe and hose, if the hose is too large, a spring band will leak but a jubilee won't as people can just overtighten them (at least for a while).
This only applies to coolant pipes though, lots of other connections still use jubilee or mikalor style
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1 hour ago, L19MUD said:
Did you go for the ATB in the end?
No, just rebuilt the standard diff 🙂
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Just to update on this for others. 500 miles of use on the road, all ok behind a 450Nm engine 🙂
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38 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Are D2 ones the same length as a defender one? Could that be why you've got differences?
I think you are right.
D2 is RBI000090 which appears to be 780mm from a good google.
Damn, been given the wrong one!
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Thanks. Is one of yours in the photo the bent type? Could you measure one for me?
Racking my brains 😕
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Hi all.
Recently swapped my front axle on my '88 110 to a 02 on axle that suits the M16 panhard rod. I've gone about getting the later panhard rod chassis bracket and a second hand rod off ebay.
I've just fitted my bushes and compared it to the old rod, the new rod is significantly shorter, is this right?
Old rod with yellow bushes - ~82cm betweem centres
new rod with purple bushes - ~78cm between centres
(first photo makes it look like they are the same length, one end is aligned)
Could someone help with knowhow or measure theirs?
Thanks!
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Hi all,
After some help to choose a steering wheel, currently have a range rover classic wheel and it stands out like a sore thumb!
I'm 6'3" and currently have mud seat rails fitted, I'm trying to work out if I go for a typically smaller aftermarket wheel do i want a slimline boss or actually with the seat further back would a normal boss be better? I'm thinking around £100 for a boss and wheel. What have people in a similar situation gone for? Happy to follow a crowd here, just want something basic looking!
Cheers,
Adam
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110 Puma rear seats. really good.
I'm 6'3" and i can sit behind a driver of the same height comfortably.
They require the later crossmember and cut outs to both arches, well worth the effort!
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X-Brake Rattle Cure
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Can report back that the fix i used lasted about 8 years. It's back on the list of jobs...
Ironically i found this post while googling "X-brake rattle" 🤣