Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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First thing before doing any of the above is look at the correct components....
The steering wheel, steering box, drop arm and drag link have no effect whatsoever on tyre wear.
Tyre wear is effected by the axle and the track rod only. 2 things can cause abnormal wear
- Incorrect Toe setting (this is the track rod adjustment, you can set it yourself using masking tape and some spanners and a accurate measuring tape if you have to, or a garage can do it)
- Camber out - this could be caused by a worn swivel housing bearing, go lock to lock on the steering, can you hear a 'clunk'?
However having said that, you said the wear is only on one side, therefore this can't be your tracking due to the set-up the defender uses, so I would look into bent/damaged/worn components on the front left.
Start there.
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Exactly the same with my M52, can't fit the A/C compressor, but it is great it's on a second belt, planning on fitting a second alternator in that gap using a custom bracket and the A/C belt.
Is the M57 impeccably smooth? I've been running mine about 2 months now and it still baffles me that I'm driving a defender with zero engine vibration! (that's using standard LR puck mounts too)
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I've gone for cones, simplest and cheapest method. New shocks would cost double and restraining the tops I had my doubts on the loading of the spring retainer at the bottom.
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Agree, I do need to sort the relocation issue, the flex is handy sometimes but I doubt i'll get into situations where it'll become a huge issue.
Is there anything more erm, fancy then just using cable ties or jubilee clips to retain them, can you buy a clamp or something?
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Hi,
Odd one, I have fitted 2 reverse sensors to my R380 (was a LT77) and both have shorted to earth after minimal time being fitted.
I have a live feed going into the switch and the bulb is on the other end.
When fitted there is no circuit between the plug pins and earth in forward or reverse gears, but after a period of time there is a circuit between the plug and earth.
Am i doing something wrong here or have I just fitted 2 faulty parts? (they were both britpart!!)
Cheers,
Adam
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Hi
Quite funny really, just carried out a full engine conversion from a 200tdi to a BMW 6 cyl Petrol, so of all the things it could of failed on it failed on the springs popping out during the test. Normally they lift on the axle but they now lift on the chassis! They failed it because the springs didn't relocate when they dropped it back down.
Non of this bothers me and I'm quite happy fixing it as it is a pain, this just forces me to sort it! I would like some advice though!
I have 2013 Defender HD suspension which lifts the car fractionally (used to have +2 springs which i didn't like). I also have pro-comp +2" shocks and extended brake lines.
Now I only greenlane the car and i plan to take it to places where real roads are a rarity, I don't do anything hardcore. So I have thought of a few options
A) Go back to standard shocks to limit the travel
B) tether the springs to the tops (any recommendations, would this defeat the point in the pro-comps?)
C) change the shocks for standard length HD versions from some manufacturer?
D) Dislocation cones
Thoughts on the above? I'm edging towards the "limit the travel" approach as I have heard this can provide stability benefits
Thanks
Adam
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The LS series coils are pretty good but they are not so fond of heat! Mount them as far away from the exhaust as possible, near the front of the engine would be best. The standard fitment on the LS engines on top of the cam covers causes problems when racing and it's one of the first things to be changed (moved to above the inlet manifold)
You'll want different plugs as well, figured you probably know that though.
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I have ran a dual alternator system for the exact functionality you mention.
I run a 130amp alternator that powers my primary circuit (Engine, Engine related, features that work only with the engine and the winch) and a 150amp alternator that powers everything else. Both alternators have seperate exciter circuits run from the seperate batteries. The set-up means it is basically impossible to run the primary battery flat. I then have a master battery switch on all aspects (Primary, Secondary, Winch and Cross Over) the Cross Over links the 2 batteries (and hence the alternators) in parallel for jump starting if something goes wrong (Never has
) or so I can send the full 280amps directly to the winch. Might be worth noting, I designed and built my loom from scratch, ignoring everything Land Rover did!!For example, I have just changed my engine and currently only running a single alternator temporarily, I now have the cross-over switch on all the time, which gives me a normal set-up but with 2 batteries in parallel. Very flexible set-up with massive redundancy.
My understanding is that alternators do not like being connected together in parallel for long periods, can cause issues with the rectifiers, but i'm not an expert.
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Seen that type of failure a few times on other cars. Con Rod Failure, they snap and jam against the side of the block blasting a hole straight through it. Hydrolocking could have something to do with it, can generate a micro-fracture which can take years to propagate and can be totally dependant on engine speed, oil temperature and load.
Sorry to see it, sucks!
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Yes you are correct, using early radius arms on a late axle will leave nice gaps for the axle to move, the panhard rod can only do so much.
In theory you could cut off and weld on the correct mounts to the axle, but I wouldn't recommend shimming the bushes to fill the gaps, seen that done before and the bushes don't approve (fail early)
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Just make sure you are happy with the rattles, they are cheaper and simpler, but if it's a daily for instance you'll probably end up converting back eventually.
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Going to change that steering wheel? lol
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I was talking about the whole thing, your washer is lovely haha! Ah I see, explains it! Hats off to you for trying to stay OEM!
Assuming you have a suitable regulator matched to the pump then, personal view, bin it and just use the banjo as you say. Never seen anything like it used, just the japs over-engineering it! Nothing I have ever seen has used anything like it, I'm betting it has pretty standard bosch injectors aswell.
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What a bizarre piece of design, can you not buy a OEM washer?
Personally I would be tempted to remove the pulsation suppressor especially as you don't look to be using nylon hard lines and I am assuming the fuel pump is a standard pump not some weird diaphragm affair, not sure how much value it is actually serving, did lexus use a un-conventional fuel pump that meant they were necessary?
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Getting there slowly but surely!
How are you tackling the power steering? Or are you going Manual?
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Seen one or two from abroad, not sure how long they stuck around for.
Shame was hoping to find some more info on how they did certain bits and pieces
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Problem with most modern petrols is they are all whizzy 4-valve engines with little torque, if I was doing it, 1UZ-FE, 250BHP V8, 250lb/ft and ridiculously over engineered and easily squirtable.
Otherwise, as has been done in Defenders on here a few times, BMW 2.5/2.8 or if you have some spondoolies and want some giggles, 3.0 twin turbo 300BHP, still a bit whizzy though.
MPi is 35 years old, not worth it honestly.
Or... Audi I5 20VT, that would be fun, if a little costly
Who else has done the BMW Petrol 6 on here? I'm doing one at the moment but not seen anyone else? Actually, not seen anyone do it other than LR
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Hmm I just fitted a in tank pump to my 110 tank using nothing but the OEM cork gasket and the supplied bolts, spring washers and washers. Not filled it to the brim yet though!
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Mine was a 200tdi disco engine in a 200tdi chassis. steering box is no issue, it's on the other side, but I only have about 35mm of clearance between the pump and the chassis rail with my M52 engine (M52 R380 P38 bellhousing arrangement)
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Yeah the TD/200tdi pipe was the same fitting as the BMW pump, but the BMW engine is too far forward and the clearance to the chassis rail dictated a banjo fitting
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If it is a new steering box, drop arm and new nut. then the drop arm should slide straight on and the nut should spin on using your fingers all the way. You either have the wrong nut or the thread is gunked up.
Sounds to me like the difference between a 1.75 and 1.5mm pitch for example (easy to start off as they are the same diameter but after 2 turns they will bind and start to try and fold the threads.
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Just be sure it actually has a problem before replacing things. The people you mention who have concurred the problem, do they drive Defenders? If not do not necessarily rely on their opinions. Defender clutches are inherently heavy, if it is a problem for you then a servo is the only fix.
Brakes however are good on Defenders, regardless what anyone says, however only when in good condition. Here's a few tips...
- Rear Drum Brakes - can easily be poorly maintained and can fill with dirt and grease, (mine failed to work altogether at one point). A good upgrade is to swap to Disc Brakes (Just change the back axle)
- Calipers - they are 4 pot on the front, and with discs, 2 pot on the rear, very effective when maintained. However with so many pistons it's easy for 1 or more to sieze and for you to not realise. Recommend you remove the pads and check each piston is freely moving.
- Servo - not unknown to fail, perform the simple servo test (turn off engine, push on brakes repeatedly to exhaust servo, push down on the brakes with uniform pressure, hold, turn on engine - if the pedal drops the servo is working, if not, replace it or check the vac lines)
- Master cylinder - can leak past the piston seals back into the reserviour and will show no visible leaks, best way to test it is to push on the brake pedal for a few minutes and see if it creeps to the floor.
- Fluid - Check it's new, if it's dark in colour or murky, flush it out
- Air - Check for a spongy feeling pedal, if it is try bleeding it
Once you tease out the issues the brakes are good, quite often feel the need to upgrade brakes on cars, the defender is the only one I haven't (apart from rear discs!)
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Well on the upside, I will probably be the only one with cool Blue shiny PAS lines! haha
Typical! Firm has just come back to me saying they can do one for £50!! Grrr
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I had the same thought as you Fridge, adapt the old pipes, nope, no one would go near! Most places couldn't do the M14x1.5 O ring seal (Typical fuel injection and power steering fitting) and would have to use a banjo, but I wasn't willing to put a banjo on the steering box as the surface isn't machined for it, the pump side however polished nicely for a banjo.
Yeah Pirtek wanted in the range of £150! Some places said they needed a pipe to copy (which sounded more of a fob off really)
I guess if I spent a few days driving around different places I would eventually find somewhere cheaper!
) or so I can send the full 280amps directly to the winch. Might be worth noting, I designed and built my loom from scratch, ignoring everything Land Rover did!!
M57 into 110 CSW
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I have never really liked BMWs, but they do make cracking engines! BMW did a good thing when they bought land rover, shame it ended really!!
I have done the same, my exhaust is Titanium wrapped from the manifolds to the first muffler, save the propshaft and gearbox from the heat. Gearing in mine is spot on though, using the R380 standard ratios and a 1.41 transfer box, but being petrol that suits it very nicely.