Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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Hi Woody,
If you want to go the steering guard route, go for it.
The comments people are saying about them here have nothing to do with their ability to be used as a recovery point. My view is it will be stronger than a Jate ring equivalent as it uses additional points and also benefits from clamp loading on the chassis so has the potential to be far stronger.
Yes steering guards are not the best steering protection as the bars can still be hit, I personally bought one as a chunk of tree managed to get up and bend my steering damper, it also serves as a perfectly adequate recovery point for me as the side bars on my winch bumper are standard thickness and not suitable which I would have otherwise used. Access being the guards only real downside.
Cheers,
Adam
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Hi,
For strops you basically have lots of choice, a 10T+ rated one is usually best. If you need one for mud plugging recovery type stuff a spliced type recovery rope are pretty good as they allow some stretch which can really help to reduce strain on the recovery points.
As for recovery points, I'm not a fan of jate rings as they fix onto chassis holes that generally do not have crush tubes and they need to allow some movement so put a huge amount of strain in the wrong direction on the chassis. Basically the chassis holes can become to elongate.
For the rear personally a rear tow setup works brilliantly, a NATO hitch or ball and pin setup in place of the tradiation ball works well.
For the front either tow loops that piggy back on the front bumper bolting points (better still is a HD bumper which has them integrated) or you can use a steering guard with recovery eyes, as they bolt to the chassis in lots of places. Downside is they are quite low so can be a pain to access in a ditch!
There will be plenty of opinions naturally!
Adam
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Hi,
So I currently have a 1988 110, when I restored it I couldn't stretch for new/not rotted to death front and middle doors so I opted for a clean set of series 109 doors. These have been great, but the draft, water ingress and small window openings I find a pain and I want to eventually solve this by moving back to defender doors.
So I've been offered a set of 2005 Santana PS10 Doors in swap for mine, they are in pretty good nick, steel skins need some repair etc and really appear to be quite comparable to defender doors. I know sourcing parts for them will be a right pain and I accept I'll need to fabricate bits if something internal goes wrong. But what I'm after is does anyone know if the fitment is the same, i.e defender hinges go straight on and the striker plates will line up somewhere sensible on the B and C posts? I'm pretty sure it's all fine, wondering if anyone else has done it?
Cheers,
Adam
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Be mindful of the fact that having different sized tires on the same axle can be construed as a construction and use offense and can land you with a fine and points under a myriad of different charge codes. But it is a massive can or worms.
If you do go for the "space saver" approach make sure you do the reading up (don't take my word for it) and label it up so it is clear if you do get pulled over for it, I believe it essentially has to be clear that it is for emergency use only and a get me home item.
Same applies for using inner tubes these days
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Well, Adam001 said his struts work with a pretty hefty wheel on the bonnet. Whether they're guaranteed to is another matter, and I'd not want to be underneath the bonnet if just one of the struts failed, whereas a plain bonnet would just give a small bruise if the struts gave up, but I think they'd be a nice lifting assister for use in conjunction with a prop.
Adam, where did you get yours?
These are mine...
http://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/gas-strut-medium--heavy-duty-270-p.asp
Post 101 is how I fitted them...
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76920&p=722159
With both fitted, when opening the bonnet the balance point for it to hold the spare wheel up is around 6-10 inches above the radiator. While I don't remember if I tested it or not if one did fail, the other would probably still hold it.
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Got to say I'm in the strut-less camp... I've not seen a set-up yet that I think (IMO) will stand up to abuse (that I would subject), where a good old prop wont do.
You are not wrong. But I must admit I much prefer having the gas struts do the lifting on mine when there's a full 265/75 on the bonnet...
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Oh, google acoustic foam (The egg box looking stuff), we use it for all sorts of automotive applications, it's brill.
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Kingspan type panelling is not bad, or sheeting of foam wrapped around the box it's in. The best thing you can do is to isolate it, put some nice big blocks of rubber under the feet.
Getting it out of the garage altogether is better though, seen people put little lean-tos on the side of the garage for this kind of thing.Didn't read... -
Tough plastic exterior plus Vaseline for the terminals is all I would expect it to need, and guess it has both already?
Aye no different to agriculture equipment or lorries, all external
I went for over rear wheel as I also have a large capacity battery in the battery box along with some other bits
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Yes doesn't matter with a new part.
The reason you do it with a old one is any surface corrosion will match back up when you put it back on again. I don't personally but then I always clean the components and emery them if needs be.
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Can't say it's not a beautiful build, but can't help thinking that's a awful lot of effort on a rover V8
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Hi, sorry missed this, got your PM.
Not familiar with the 2.0 MPI but you would need either
A) P38 input shaft in a Defender R380 gearbox with a P38 2.5DSE bellhousing or...
B) Defender R380 gearbox with the specific M52B28 defender bellhousing
Option A is much easier to get hold of but the engine will be inclined by approximately 11 degrees from nominal. Option B is the same as factory fit but that bellhousing is extremely hard to get hold of. Both options take the P38 dual mass flywheel and clutch arrangement. I fitted mine using option A with the gearbox on 200tdi mounts and custom engine brackets onto the factory 200tdi chassis mounts, I did not weld the chassis in any way. If you have a 300tdi/TD5 base chassis then the engine sits slightly further back but I believe is just as straightforward, but the incline with option A may then become a problem. South african cars were based off the 300tdi/TD5 chassis.
In general though a good read of my build thread and Andrews will give you most of the knowledge straight away.
Good luck.
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Had ours around for 21 years....I could put reasons but it seems superfluious
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Ever experienced brake fade?
I have good rear brakes so never have, so I left mine non-vented considering they are exactly the same in regards to stopping power :-) I might consider it next time my pistons, discs and pads need doing anyway but personally I would save the pennies.
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Looking smart, how much longer you reckon...or is it one of those "I keep thinking not long but the reality keeps kicking me in the ass"?
Keep thinking I need to get mine in some mud!
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Super! Thanks for that
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Morning,
Can someone do me a massive favour and measure the height from the floor of their defender (Either the load space or the foot well) to the top of the seat cushion for the middle row seats (New or old designs, I dont mind)?
Need to fabricate something for mine and could do with a benchmark to go by so my passengers dont end up too high or low.
Thanks,
Adam
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You'll get a advisory, that's all.
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Just make sure the kit is certified (Look for CE marks etc). it should have suitable spreader plates and braces back to the chassis as a minimum.
I do hope though you have checked your warranty details.
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If you are getting a new Landrover why not ask the dealership to fit it for you, and ask for a deal on it? That way you can keep your warranty intact!
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Slightly different point of view here...
Sell it to whoever is willing to give you money!!! As I speak I currently have a engine and a alternator kit on the 'resolution centre' because of time wasters. My (im)moral opinion....
- If it's on a ebay auction with a buy it now, tell external buyers they will just have to buy through ebay, it's easier
- If it's on a ebay auction without a buy it now, tell them you will remove it once I see money and charge them the cancellation fee (physical or paypal, cash only for collection mind), I wouldn't worry about the people who have already bid. It's an auction it's not a sure thing anyway.
Might not be ethical, but then ebays protection for sellers is appauling, buyers can buy something then decide they can't be bothered with no penalty.
Just my 2p worth
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Second Iains comment. Rosejoints or similar are not really suitable for the given reasons. They are known to increase the risk of chassis cracking due to the high frequency vibrations and the inherent fact they do not absorb any movement, a bit of compliance on a landy is a good thing
. What you can do though is re-set the standard bushes by slackening the joints, raise the car very slightly and re-tighten the joints. This will place the bushes under very slight torsion which will decrease the life slightly but will allow the A frame to drop more readily, if it's a challenge truck you could get away with it but a road car I probably wouldn't recommend it.Iain, we can change the suspension design in the UK, so long as it will clear the MOT requirements (disturbingly easy) and you have it declared with your insurance company.
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Can't say I have read the thread, however I have a friend who has a 200tdi in a series 3 without an intercooler and has been running it for around 60'000 miles with no issues. When he put it in he reduced the pressure to 0.7Bar as he didn't need the power and just wanted a reliable engine with a easy engine bay layout. He is more than happy with it.
So seeing that the 200 and 300 are essentially the same I don't see any reason why you cannot do it. You'll lose a chunk of power and some cooling across the inlet valves (never heard of any problems with a TDI valve) but that's it.
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Normal garages *may* fumble about with them for a while to figure out how to do it.
Recovery mods
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yes, I know. Hence why i said they can be hit. Why are people still talking about the same thing?