MetalMagus

Try giving Gwyn Lewis a ring. I have just had the challenge kit with approx 2 inch lift fitted to my 90. Rides very nice. He takes the time to ask what you use the vehicle for and what weight you will carry in it to give the best recommendation of springs and dampers. No link to him other than a happy customer. https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/the-challenge-kit-pricing/ cheers Sean

Try giving Craig at Buzzweld.co.uk a shout. He has a hard wearing gloss black paint that would work. http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/ClassicGloss1000.html Cheers Sean

Thanks for the replies guys. Rover axle it is then. Last one I looked at on Ebay looked brand new in a crate including the brake calipers and disks. Trouble is they are asking nearly a grand for it plus shipping. I'll keep looking for now. Cheers Sean

Hi guys, I’m looking to charge the rear drum brake axle on my 1989 Defender for a disk brake version. Question is what is the going rate for an axle complete with brake calipers. Seen a wide range of prices & I don’t mind paying if it is worth it. But, also don’t want to pay over the odds. Also what’s a Salisbury axle, and are the preferred over the LR version. cheers Sean

Red 90 Thank you for the feedback. More braking surface area would be nice. I'll have a measure of the piston diameter in the brakes currently fitted and if they are the 41 mm version I'll upgrade to the 46 mm version. Should make getting hold of spares easier in the future. Like I said I need to change out the discs anyway so while I have everything apart, in for a penny in for a pound. Thanks Sean

Western, Thanks for the reply. I had read somewhere that the 110 discs and calipers were larger than the ones I have currently fitted, and gave you better stopping power if fitted to a 90. But, if you think I won't gain anything then I will certainly heed that advice. I need to replace the discs so will give the calipers an overhaul including the stainless steel pistons at the same time. Thanks for the advice you've saved me some dosh.

Hi, Can anyone offer advice on fitting 110 calipers and discs on the front axle of my 1989 Defender 90. Happy to keep the drums on the rear but would like a little sharper braking. Do I need to also change out the brake servo and master cylinder for 110 items. If so what are the part numbers. Last question, do new calipers come with stainless steel pistons. Thanks in advance for any replies. Sean

It's fixed. Made sense once I sat and looked at it for a while. The brass bar sits horizontal between the 3 contacts. It slots into a recess in the plastic housing. Sorry didn't take any pics. Cheers Sean

Hello, Does any one have a diagram or photograph of where the small brass bar in the indicator switch goes for a 1989 200 TDI Defender 90. Initially started out with a problem with the horn so ordered a new sŵitch. Found the hole that the wiper switch axle mounts through was out of position compared to the "original" item that I removed. So I embarked on swapping the indicator switch from the new bracket to the old. Big mistake ! On lifting the switch from the plate by sliding it off the tabs at the stalk end the springs and ball bearing made a bid for freedom. Now I have it back together and it clicks on and off mechanically. The horn now works, the main beam works but the indicators nothing. I think I must have the small brass bar in the wrong place, hence the question. So before I buy a new set of switches that both fit onto the column without any butchery can anyone help. Cheers Sean.

Thanks for the replies guys. Much appreciated. I've ordered a complete lock from Paddock. Thanks for the part numbers Western. I needed a couple of other bits and pieces so made sense to order all together. Mike thanks for the kind offer but I think once I fit the new lock I will see if I can fashion a new handle from 1/8" strip with some way to add a padlock hasp. Something to keep the grey matter churning. As always I knew I could rely on the folks on here to come up with some good suggestions. Cheers Sean

Hi all, The door lock on the rear door of my 90 has seen better days. The handle that slots through from the lock to open the door from the outside has rusted through. This has led to the handle snapping off and literally coming off in my hand. I'm after some advice as to whether I can open up the lock mechanism and replace the handle with a home brewed affair. I briefly googled for a new lock and it looks to be around £70. Now if I need to shell out for a new one I will but fixing it would be my preferred option so I don't need another key for the back door. Cheers Sean

Okay sorry for taking so long to update. The verdict is in. A loose alternator belt and a very polished alternator pulley. Belt now screeches when cold and the rev counter doesn't spring to life until things have warmed up a little. Is there an "easy" way to adjust the alternator to give me belt tension? Work and lack of daylight keep preventing me from getting under the bonnet and fixing this. Plus it's blumming freezing. How I envy people with a garage. Can I get to it from underneath easier, or do I need to remove the air filter and intercooler pipes. If I can nurse it along until the weekend then I may get it fixed. Cheers Sean

Thanks for all the feedback gents. Gives me things to check and go through. Probably start off at the alternator and work my way back. Will let you know how I get on. Now all I need is some daylight and my day job not to get in the way. Cheers Sean

Hi Hope someone on the forum can help me diagnose an issue I have with a VDO rev counter I have fitted to my 200 TDI Defender 90. The rev counter works fine up to approximately 3000 RPM. Indicates correctly with a blip on the accelerator pedal. Once you reach 3000 RPM which equates to around 65 MPH then the rev counter dies and drops to zero. Now I don't do this kind of speed very often but I noticed it the other day on a down hill wind behind me run. Once the revs reduce the rev counter springs back into life. The rev counter gets the signal from the "W" terminal on the alternator so I'm wondering if either my alternator is slipping above 3000 RPM, but I cannot hear any screeching from the belt, or if the alternator is stopping outputting over 3000 RPM. Any ideas? Cheers Sean

Thanks for all the options and advice folks. Lots for me to think about. Plan at the moment is to fit the new wheels and tyres that the nice UPS man has just dropped off. Then let my credit card recover before buying the new doors. Probably wait it out over the winter before getting the doors and having the whole thing resprayed. As a thought has anyone ever come across fibreglass full doors? It would be one way to get rid of the corrosion. Thanks Sean