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Maverik last won the day on February 25

Maverik had the most liked content!

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About Maverik

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    In constant need of Instant Mechanical Gratification!

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  1. As western has said, I've seen a fair few older numbers and they also have the circular (3 way yinyang) type British Layland logo at each end.
  2. Have you just tried starting it and then cracking open lines? - or get someone to turn the engine over while you crack open lines?
  3. Very interesting bit of software, I'll be giving this a wee go. - thanks for the other suggestions too, heaps for me to have a look at. Mav
  4. I just want to record some circuits I've put together, presently they're sat as rather rough sketches in a notes book. I've actually used Crocodile clips years ago, i thought it was de-funcked software, but I'll have a look again. Yes - its now called Yenka - as its a simulation software, I was more looking for a drawing package I think rather than simulation.
  5. Hi Folks, Does anyone have any recommendations for some basic software for creating circuit diagrams at all? Had a quick google and it pulled up a few but they where all fee based. Which isn't a problem but I don't want to pay for something then find its a pile of carp. Cheers Mav
  6. Yup - as Stephen says I've done it a few time too. but be aware, its a pretty heavy lump.. Also worth getting new bolts to put it back on with - they're high tensile ones.
  7. Another tip for getting the old nuts off... tap a socket on or even a smaller socket if they're really corroded, then go straight for the tighten... they're only m6 so will shear pretty easily.
  8. If you're using a standard turret tube, bit of tip. Before you put the inner wing covers back on fill the whole top "cup" part of the turret (the bit where the nut is sitting) with some kind of grease. As it will fill with water thus the nut will be submerged which leads to the obvious. I installed galvanised turrets before Christmas and when I came to change the shocks a month ago, I already saw corrosion on the top shock stud, and had standing water up there too.
  9. Chances are as said above you'll just shear off the mount studs, so make sure you get some new ones on order. After I replaced the stud ring last time I stack the studs with nuts as to cover up all the thread then slap grease over them, stop you from having the rusty thread problem.
  10. My few attempts at playing with tig on Alu was that using a big backing heat sink can be the difference between blowing the piece away and getting a decent joint the thinner the alu the more important. Maybe for an expert Tig welder they can control the weld pool better but for novice, heat sinks all the way for me.
  11. I found some genuine ones on Ebay. I see them come up a fair bit. Mav
  12. That's the same stuff I used on my fronts the other day. I figured it can only help protect the galvy a bit longer.
  13. I've just pulled a LT77 off a Transfer box recently it had been worked quite hard and the female splines on the input gear had worn, quite badly, in - which ultimetly cause it lock it onto the output shaft of the gearbox - quite interesting really, one of the issues of a non cross drilled input gear. So learning point - if it appears stuck, back off on the gear box, or the transfer box output which might effectively help unlock the wear issue, as its only usually on the main drive direction. I had to jury rig up a puller to get it freed off.
  14. Been one of those weeks has it Mo
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