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LandyLee

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Posts posted by LandyLee

  1. Ugh, ditto, I understand about earth loops and such, but running a good earth straigh from battery to a distribution point, and then making sure you earth the individual components back to it will not cause this.

    that was star earthing if I remember , My point is you have a car that is made of metal and capable of carrying hundreds of amps of currrent to the circuit you need so why run two separate wires to the device when you can run one and use body to pass current back to battery. if you can imagine , passing 70A of current through a long cable causes a voltage drop , with two of these wires you have twice the drop and hence also less supply to the circuit. As I said earlier as well you are then floating the device slightly above earth compared to other devices connected to battery. this used to cause hell in some situations

  2. Sorry , if all the devices connected to a supply share the same earth i.e. the chassis/body then they have equal potential. If you run a separate earth then this will have a resistance which will be greater than that achieved by using the chassis as earth. This can then cause a potential difference between circuits, This would then make circuits pass current looking for an easier return to earth than the long wire . You notice it in audio with earth loops. Haven't thought about this for over 20 years !! Finding it hard to explain.

    BUT when I did installation work for vodafone etc ( carphone and radio comms stuff) we used to have to run separate earths to battery and fuse both earths and supplies. ( the fusing earth wires was because of electron flow actualy being from neg to pos if i remember)

    Does this help ?if not I'll try and find a reference on the tinternet somewhere. Main crux of point was keep earths as short as possible and using a minimum of same thickness cable as supply.

  3. Are they prescribed areas , i.e. near seat belt mounts ? if so you really should get the repair patches welded in. If there was corrosion/holing near enough bodymounts then this would be a problem as well. I agree with the etch primer etc. its just some mot testers might object to repair methods.

  4. worth checking the wiring I find very bad corrosion in lots of defender wiring looms when changing headlights , I use the phillips 50% uprated bulbs which are much brighter than standard but do not use any more power (remember only a smallish alternator on most defenders) . The hella lamps are stunning. With both I get about the same light output (on MOT light testing machine) as most modern cars.

  5. That link will come very useful! are there any other sort of common things i should be looking out for?

    with regards to what ? if its lighting then headlight aim, output, light security , hazard switches go faulty , generally rear stop/tail lamps give a few issues. defenders give alot of issues with worn seatbelts, cracking and corrosion to aluminium panels in the prescribed seat belt area . Alot of local testers run away from land rovers, can't blame them they can be hard work to mot compared to usual euro box

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