[90 rechassis - where can I get some parts from ??]

After stripping my 92 defender I have found quite a few rusty/useless parts !!!! where can I get new/used :

The metal box section pieces that connect the tub to the bulkhead - the bottom door seal is screwed to these .

The brackets that connect the chassis to the seat belt brackets on the tub

The front fuel tank mount

all mine are very corroded and I wouldn`t want to re use them !!!

Also before rebuilding the new chassis with +2"springs/shocks etc that I`ve bought , how important is it to have cranked rear bars and castor corrected front arms and the adjustable panhard rod ?? will the defender be ok without them or will it be better to start saving a bit more.

I am polu bushing the 90 now and don`t want , for example, the rear bushes to wear out very fast due to incorrect angles etc.

[Disco gearbox into a LR 90]

If the play is in the output shaft, is it worth checking whether it's the output shaft or the input gear to the LT230, as those can be replaced in-situ and cost £50.

my 90 has this play on the input gear (lt230) , I thought the box had to be stripped to fix it ??? anyone have a tutorial on how to do this please

[deep wading]

I`d go with slipping belt , from experience that is ,,,,,,

[MOT]

Find yourself an MOT tester who knows how Land Rovers work, it's nicer to your handbrake/centre diff

we use the decelerometer for the service brakes and use a hill to test the hand brake ,, I`ll check with vosa tomorrow as for official answer but no way would I pull handbrake up on customers when I MOT

[snorkel]

when a snorkel is fitted do u have to use the air filter or is the snorkel top a replacement

the snorkel just takes air from higher up than the wing , it still goes through the air filter

[Land rover defender rebuild project help info]

Its alot of work !!! I have just started doing mine ,, I`m about halfway through stripping down my 92 defender, I have the new chassis next to it ready but can`t see me getting to fit anything for a few weeks yet. I`m a mechanic by trade and am doing the rebuild in the garage but still find it hard work due to seized/rusted bolts.

Best of luck with yours anyway and get plenty of wd40 on all the bolts before you start !!

[Temp and pressure limits]

Re coolant temperature, I believe the normal running temp of a 300tdi is 95 deg celcius

bob

exhaust gas temp ,,,, have you fitted a sensor to the exhaust then ??? I would set oil pressure warning to go off if oil pressure goes below 1 bar same as most switches , as for the transfer box oil temp I`ll check the usual oil temp range for you tomorrow in work if you need

[Circlip Pliers]

Beta tools is local to me in newport , their tools seem to be ok and not far from blue point / mac quality

[diff lock light problem]

Another possibility is that the wiring (it goes from top front of bulkhead to transfer box switch along the chassis rail, and has a least one joint in it) has gone brittle, corroded and otherwise ceased to conduct. You can get to most of fairly easily (assuming the floorscrews will come out ) by taking the right hand floor panel out.

I`ve already got my floor panels off and your right i just traced wires ,, they were high resistance at gearbox end

[Whats this Adhesive called.]

Its butyl windscreen tape thats used on the modern cars. Its about £12 for a roll. It should do the job perfectly.

Its like super bluetack although its black.

wurth sell it to the trade for about that BUT you can get it from caravan shops known as w7 repair tape and is used to repair caravan panels and windows etc

[diff lock light problem]

I have this exact problem as well , havent looked at it yet but was expecting just the bulb to be gone as my difflock still works just no warning light

[new gauges good for a while]

IIRC you have a 200tdi ?

the oil pressure sender fits as in my photo's here all the parts on my modded diagram are standard genuine LR items as fitted to the older TD & n/a diesel engines.

the wiring goes to the multiplugs by the brake servo & then through the bulkhead to the instrument pack.

check the earth to the gauge , sounds like it has lost it

[mot on defender 2.5 td]

that would be me as well

Hi everyone I`m a newbie on here but as well as a landy owner I`m an mot tester ,,,,, we are supposed to test oil temperature with sensor before doing the emission test but can bypass this if needed. The throttle limit method works ok ,so does removing the air filter/running the engine with forte fuel conditioner/running on various fuel mixtures . Generally I would say just find a sympathetic mot tester and you`ll be ok, we are supposed to rev the vehicle to governor/limiter once and release not hold it on limiter as I have seen some do. Any issues try reading testing manual at motinfo site