LandyLee
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Posts posted by LandyLee
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its usually written on the rear or side of the alternator - by the part number label sometimes.
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You DO NOT use stainless for the suspension just buy a bearmach kit for them ,,, as for all the rest !!! I worked out it has cost me over £80 on nuts bolts washers and metric J nuts, Oh and screws as well !!! I used plenty of copper grease on all the nuts and bolts during rebuild . I am nearing the end of the build phase now and readying everything for paint on mine.
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what like a bad earth ???
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Laser used to sell a dummy spark plug with a central probe which could easily be dti`d to set up TDC , used it loads , years ago,
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hi i havent got the trailer plug on yet and when i press the brakes my side lights come on is this my problem???? sorry fr posting here
you havent fitted a single element bulb instead of a twin , see it every week in garage, other than that as previously stated see alot of towing electric problems usually either at the plug or in the scotch locks they use to fit it !!!! also wires rubbing against the chassis is another common one.
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I would definitely change the power supply distribution on a 200 Tdi with everything being supplied from fusebox located i battery box etc
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Must be nice to have that option. I think it will be easier for me to just do the wiring from scratch.
just looked at your facebook photos and am very impressed with your build , I`ve fitted a few autosparks wiring looms for customers in the past. When working it out , it costs less to buy one of theirs than to make one up for customer, as for a loom for my own , I don`t know ,,,,, cost of wire and connectors etc I`ll probably make up my own chassis loom and repair the main loom
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I usually go and look at another vehicle of the same age , that way the routing can be worked out ,
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The light coming on means that it is finding a path to eath either through the wiring or throught the diode pack built into the alternator. I would say it is likely to be a faulty diode in the alternator itself
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3.05 Hours according to autodata , avg cost in garage now is £40/hour so £120 or thereabouts
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my 92 was metric , now has 98 model axles so obviously metric.
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bought mine off foundry 4x4 , they`ve got both 3/8 and 1/2 drive versions. Great tool and very often borrowed by everyone
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what year etc is everything ,,
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anyone seen an orange six wheel defender with a gmc v8 diesel in it , 3 sp auto box if I remember,,, it was around here a few years ago , about the same time a somerset guy used to fit 2.8 mitsubishi td engines in to range rovers and discos ,,,,
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local engineering company rents out the locking pin sets and I think torque wrenches, maybe a local one will do this for you ??? they charge £10/week which is reasonable in our opinion
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britpart selll the bolts singly if needed and they come with thread lock paste already on em,,, draper expert 13mm 12 pt socket takes em off. if they are rusty then a 1/2" 12pt socket tapped on will still remove the bolts.
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I just had four off bearmach and they are Britpart looking items
I paid for genuine ones ,,, They are rock solid and much harder than ones I fitted to customers 110 last weekwe get alot of behicles with the mounts actually separated from the metal backing ...
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Need some new axles for my 90 & ive seen disco 300tdi & defender 300tdi axles knocking about.
Is there a difference?
Also whats the difference between a r380 & transfer box for a disco and defender???
Thanks in advance!
I`ve got 300tdi disco axles on my 90, I used a high tensile bolt, some washers and spacers to get the rubber fixing off and the 4 bolts fixing on, for the rear axle that is. For the front axle as my 90 is 92 I had to change radius arms as well as bushes different width
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Me Too! I made my own also incorporating mounting holes for a rear winch. It has quick release mudflaps and.....fog lights!
Steve
I like the recessed fogs , class touch ,
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know how he feels , my quick rechassis is up to 4 months now , engine and gearbox back in , bulkhead wings and doors on etc still quite a few weeks left yet ,,,,,
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for it to be a mot item it would have to be in a prescribed area , i.e within 12 inches of brakes or suspension or steering and I can`t see it being there if it`s where I think. if you fill it or cover it it would get a mention as a manual advisory to say area not testable due to covering ,,
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the cheaper eobd type scanners are designed for petrol 2001 inwards and diesel 2003 onwards vehicles , coverage before these dates is not compulsory and very patchy . An eobd scanner is worth having as a back up to a main unit but will only cover engine codes and not abs suspension etc etc .
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noticed you are not too far away !! I have a clarke 150 TE you can borrow until you get yours sorted , its sitting in the attic unused . As for you`re welder , it could be break in wire to torch or transformer problem etc etc .
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we just lift the disk off the floor and belt it with a 32 oz hammer ! you then turn the disk until it starts moving off the hub. Honest it will shift eventually. Alternatively I suppose you could press it off though we`ve never needed to do it yet ,,,,
defender rebuild
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
M6 x 20 , m6 x 30 , m8 x 25 , m8 x 30 , m8 x 40 are all used quite alot during build for seat box , wings etc. as for numbers I would have to recount but quite a few as I was buying the m8s quite often. M6s used on seatbox and roof and to hold wing at top and on the front rad mount etc. As I said it was easier to have bags of each and use them as needed.