LandyLee
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Posts posted by LandyLee
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was in work today , working on my landy , checked system for messages and nothing from VOSA , will ring them and clarify this situation when we start back properly next week . Checked the landys we have in work and all over the place for GVW on the chassis plates ,,,,
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first things first , try disconnecting the wiper mech and see if fuse blow then , it`ll tell you if it`s the wiper mech or switch and wiring , my bet is the wiper motor though , sorry ,
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bulkhead needs further exam in usual places , wing repairs and bottom of doors as well . Sounds like too much on first looking . Imagine actually seeing it in daylight !! Like alot of people I bought one without really thinking about it BUT I work in a garage which had enough room to allow me to work on my defender. Without this I wouldn`t like to take one on that needed say the bulkhead repaired outside
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if its a lucas relay then I think I`ve got one in work ,,,, sounds like either relay or earthing to it , since you said all lighting working ok except for dim dip unit
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I was searching for a set of galv tub cappings , the LR ones are definitely not galv as I saw a set in foundry 4x4 , btw they gave me a s/h n/s galv long capping when I bought a load of parts off them !!! They then offered to get a new one galvanised for me for the other side , I`ll probably do this as I havent seen a set of galv ones on ebay in 3 months of looking ,,,,
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Buy the LR towing relay. It isn't too expensive and then you will get the relevant light on the dash to work.
it used to come in the kit ,,, along with plug in electrics and a pair of LR gloves !!!!!!! quite a few companies were listing it at less than £100 for the kit at one time ,
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UPDATE ....
I`ve been given a disco lt77 , in mint condition , output shaft looks like brand new and I remember the disco and it had no gearbox issues , how much of a job to convert it to defender use ???
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according to wiring diagram you are reconnecting the blue / red wire which goes to the unit on pins 2 and 8 , hope this helps
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if all the lights are working perfectly except from the dim dip unit ,which without going technical,runs the headlights at a lower power so they work as side lights ,then I would have said either faulty unit or check earthing to unit. May be simpler to do away with unit by connecting the headlight dip inputs to it to the dip output from it ,
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sounds like a dim dip unit playing up ,what exactly is your model and I`ll look up on the diagram for you, used to get it regularly with 300tdi discos which had spots wired straight to h/lights so that spot relay power was taken from headlight ,,,
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the tester`s manual tells me to go to vin plate and check the gvw for determining the class of vehicle , the only time this doesn`t come into force is on vehicles such as campers which automatically go to class 4. My 90 shows 3500Kgs as well ,,, bugger . Another exception was what was called dual purpose vehicles which were L200s etc .
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could be fun at the next mot my 90 v5 reads 3900kg
What for GVW or Gross vehicle Weight !!! class 4 is upto 3000 kg class 7 is 3001 to 3500 kg , after this you have to go to VOSA. I tested a VW LT46 or 4.6 tonne gross van the other day ,,, asi t had been replated to 3500kg GVW
I`ll check with vosa when I start back as to correct procedure for landies, as we had not received any special notices telling us about landies up until 23rd Dec when I finished up
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Need to get this sorted as it is now holding up my 90 rebuild. I was looking for a local company as it would save me on the ridiculous carriage charges for sending my lt77s to them and receiving one back. I used to work for an ex BL fitter and he was amazing at these boxes , he rebuilt my disco boxes for me and they were still going strong 70k and five hard years later. Unfortunately he`s no longer around so it looks like ashcroft then,,,
p.s. I`m not saying that ashcrofts charges are bad ,, just the cost of shifting a gearbox around in general
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I`m a MOT tester and we have classes 4,5, and 7. The main differences between 4 & 7 for us are checking the speed rating and load rating of the tyres and the dreaded calculation of the brake efficiences using the GVW of the vehicle. It usually means that class 7 vans only just pass on brake efficiency. That is using the proper brake tester , using the decelerometer I`ll try one and get back to you. We do not usually charge extra for class 7
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I`ve found a defender R380 gearbox complete for sale. How much work would it be for say a local company to convert it to short shaft ???
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I need the LT77S out of my defender 90 200tdi rebuilt. It has the the usual output shaft wear and as such needs a new shaft. Can someone recommend someone to do it in the S Wales area , I`ll change the input gear on the lt230 myself after seeing these changed in work years ago. I`ve read the workshop manual but I don`t feel confident to attempt it myself...
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can`t you block one of the inputs , I have seen them T`eed in using two pipes but have always wondered whether you can just remove one pipe and run on single.
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I use a DISKLOK , I have used one in conjunction to electronic alarms etc for over 10 years and can reccomend one , it is very visual and has the advantage of being thatcham cat 3 rated
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How are they testing the brakes ?? we use a decelermometer to test 4x4s as they can`t be tested on a 2 wheel rolling road.
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My rebuild is now a rolling chassis !! , I stripped the gearbox off to change the clutch and decided to look how bad the box/transfer box "clunk" really was,, anyway both are completely knackered. I have read up on the lt230 mod and how to fit the input gear. How do I sort out the output shaft on the lt77 ??
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I just fitted a valeo clutch in my 200tdi , we fit them in work and they seem ok , are they ok for a defender ??
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the thin wire is the doide pack output wire that goes to the warning lamp , such that the lamp earths through the alternator if the alternator stops generating current. This is before the voltage regulator and the main output wires are after the reg . Not clever to cross connect the cables
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thanks for the replies , I noticed in one of this months mags , one of the rebuilds had bought a set of britpart galv sill pices that I need . So I`ll go for these , and I`ll use YRM metal solution for the fuel tank mount , bullkhead repair sections and exhaust and other brackets that I need. I don`t think I`ll bother with the castor correction then as it sounds a problem and TBH I run a disco with 1.5" lift for 5 years without a prob. As for the rear cranked arms , after discussing it I`ve found out that I can`t use them if I want to enter local off roading events.
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I`ve seen quite a few landys that when brought in for mot have water issues , I have noticed on quite a few that the wiring grommet wasn`t sealed up right and I wonder whether this is the issue ?? or is it just that the light is not sealed to the bowl correctly ??
300 tdi glow plugs change is this normal
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Best way we find to check glow plugs is a set of jump leads off a good battery , connect them to the glow plug and the tip should be red hot in 5 seconds or so , if so then plug ok. This obviously only works for 12v plugs and not some of the lower voltage series connected ones you get on cars !!!!!