LandyLee
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Posts posted by LandyLee
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I`m approved to fit cobra and used to be clifford. To fit one on a 200tdi or earlier I would cut ignition and crank and know that pretty much everyone other than my gran could bypass it. The best item we fitted on older diesels were the mechanical/electrical immobilisers for heavy plant etc. The 3 wire and protected stop solenoids on later diesels did help a little. I personally use a disklok as its a bigger deterrent than a flashing light and stickers !!
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unless its run with microsft software and will glitch every day and some poor sucker will get their car impaled !!!
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we`ve got a local company like that . Lyons engineering , the old guy had seen it all and could honestly either get it out or make a tool to do it. I suppose we have a problem like this say once a month whereas they are doing it every day so they know what really works. If it really can`t come out then there`s a spare 200 tdi block at work, was saving it as a spare for mine but I`ll happily donate it to keep someone elses landy running !!
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flowing was a good idea on normally aspirated but I can`t really see it doing much on a turbo engine which is squashing the air in at 1 bar of boost ,,,,,
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Some local youngsters , bought a cheap recovery truck and then donned hi vis jackets etc and proceeded to steal vehicles in the area. Got caught when they were caught on a bus companies cameras stealing a car from their car park .
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anyone got a photo of where to put hole etc , I`ll pre drill my lights before fitting .
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Somewhere on the forum, someone recently mentioned some sort of penetrating fluid thats is extremely cold. I'l have a hunt...
its me , its called rost off ice , made by wurth and won`t get that drill out !!!!! we`ve had it happen in work and the problem you get is the harder the drill bit the more prone to snapping if flexed it is, sometimes you can be lucky and once you get a tungsten carbide drill bit started it will carry on through and drill it out. I usually start at about 2mm and work up. never managed to get a solid weld to drill bits usually if you do get em out you have to use an insert to repair damage to surrounding area of threads. Sorry to sound all doom and gloom but that`s a real **** of a job and the best of luck to you. Snap on do a left handed drill bit/extractor set and we`ve had good results with it
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He`ll be bidding on it himself , I know his type. Lowest 2" lift Ive ever seen with "expensive" springs ,,,,
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If you don't mind the loud road hum that the aggressive Insa special tracks give, then I would highly recommend them. Much cheaper, better off road IMO, and far more chunky looking (if thats your thing). However, they do wear quickly.
we have two hybrids in work , one with kl71s and the other with insa turbos , they usually go out playing together and the insas are wearing out alot faster. it it the tarmac journeys ??
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EP90 is the better choice for earlier swivels with the railko top bush, as apparently this benefits from better 'splash lubrication' this way as opposed to the one-shot grease.
that is a very valid point and one I shall be making to my boss !!! we use grease on everything.
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we charge the same for 4 or 7 , funnily most stations around us send their class 7s to us as we are one of the only class 7 stations in our area. The use of dgw for brake calculations make it quite hard for some vans to pass brake efficiency. It can be a close run thing with quite alot of vehicles passing on having locked wheels above 50% more than on their actual readings
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the dual purpose vehicle section mentioned earlier is going to be removed by vosa this year , we were told by them when our latest tester did his course in december.
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That's a bit of a pain Ralph, hope you get it sorted!
I've been wrestling with large numbers of rusted out bolts getting the body off the Series III:
All I can suggest is a wire brush and rost off ice - it`s one of the new freezing agents that seem to really free off seized nuts and bolts , we use it in work when we`re struggling and heat can`t be used. halfords sell their own version as well. Seems to work better than wd40 etc.
anyway spent most of my day repairing chassis loom for my 90 , tempted to buy autosparks one !!!
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do you have a multimeter ? if you do then remove keys from ignition , turn everything electrical off , disconnect the battery live and place the one probe of the multimeter on the live terminal and the the other on the disconnected live terminal. With the meter on amps you are now completing the circuit and measuring any current that the landy is using while switched off. Usual readings are 0.03 to 0.04 A or 30 to 40 mA . this allows for radio memory and clock etc. if it`s alot higher say 100mA or more then you have a faulty alternator or something not switching off properly (usually radio or aftermarket alarm) Way to check alternator is to now disconnect wires going to it and see if abnormal load dissappears. As for temp of -20 !!! once a battery goes below freezing it only has half the normal charge available to crank the vehicle due to temp !!
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seen quite a few different types in truck accessory catalogues when I was looking for cheaper hella spotlights !! Try local truck parts shop like fleetwheel
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we`ve got those wings on an early 90 in work , think it`s a 1990 model , what made me notice is the screw through the top of the wing that goes to the bulkhead ,
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I`m running 265/75/16 - general grabber at2s on it right now so no problems then just buy the ordinary ones ?
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Before I go and buy some , do I need these with a 2" lift ? I have none fitted as of yet and I need to know whether to buy standard or extended ones ? Currently I am running +2" shocks and springs and that`s all, no -2" turrets or different shock mounts
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it`s not that rare , we see it from time to time in the garage , basically the voltage regulator has failed and is allowing the voltage to go higher than the allowed maximum of 14.4V . Usual symptoms are failure of light bulbs regularly !!
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I`ve got a few spare 70A relays off vauxhalls and renaults etc , if anyone needs one give me a message and I`ll post one out ,,, as for current , 15A per glow plug is the specified current for 12v glow plugs , I`ve usually measure this which then gradually drops to about 40A when they are red hot. this is with a clamp on ammeter. Also Land Rover actually advise in the manual somewhere that tdis only need glow plugs when temp gets to 0, remember reading it about 7 years ago when I found my disco ones were all open circuit !! and had been proabably since I bought it !!
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everyone makes 265/75s , though not as good as 85s for axle clearance etc. at least all manufacturers list them. I went for 265/75 AT pattern but would of preferred 255/85 for their size.
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I`ve got 300 tdi doors to fit to my 200 and they have the bottom seal on the doors ,I was going to remove them until i read this !!! I did notice on ebay that someone is selling kits of the two seals that go on the sill for earlier ones.
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How much is a complete overhaul kit when compared to the cost of a overhauled unit ,, Luckily the last owner of my defender shelled out for a recon ,, perhaps if he had left it leaking it might have saved the chassis !!
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depends on a thousand different things , I could never tell which were write offs , biggest factor is obviously age/value. We used to straighten ordinary cars (monococque) both using the jig or the dozer and chaining the car to a ramp!!! jig work was very expensive due to the hours needed to mount a vehicle on it. we never tried to straighten a LR chassis so others on here will have to tell you about this. We usually rebuilt onto a new chassis etc as the landies were typically council/big company newish ones
:angry: 
Is this a earth fault ????
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
do you have access to a multi meter ?