UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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Doh! I knew that...
I think my mind must be playing tricks on me as I thought it went inside but not beneath the bush - despite looking at the diagram many times!
Any insider tips to how to get the bush out?
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It was definitely a good event judging by the number of stalls+people.
Picked up a servicable winch bumper for £15 & a load of chequer-plate for a tenner, which amused the X-engers as I dragged it to the car!
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Hello all,
Hopefully the collected brains on here can help...
Rebuilding the front 10-spline axle on my 1989 110 project. I ordered some new stub-axle seals FRC3099, as per the various parts catalogues online. Seal appears to be several mm too big for the hole!
Any ideas?
Matt
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Playing Devil's avocado:
On my mobile so can't see your profile/what vehicle you've got. Why exactly do you want a "later" Defender? There aren't many bits you can't upgrade to later spec with a bit of nouse.
I mention it because even rough/"fixer upper" Defender prices have gone through the roof recently. Might be cheaper to upgrade what you've got.
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As I said in the thread that Happy/Miserable/Ambivalent-OldGit linked to, this is worth a read too
Matt
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It appears to be run by the same people as Newbury, in which case, if you have a shopping list it’s definitely worth going. If you need new bits – you would probably won’t get many savings over ordering online (even including postage). But if you need secondhand stuff – body panels, doors, dash pieces etc you can pick up a bargain.
There’s also the social aspect – have met a couple of people at Newbury that I otherwise knew only online.
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I couldn't make post 1991 Disco calipers fit - good job they were free to collector really...bought 110 rears from Bearmach in the end. Sticking with 'stock' setup has to be the easiest way to go.
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Thanks chaps, will do. Cunning idea to use old swivel pin as drift (facepalm for not thinking of that myself).
Had to go to out to search for a replacement Eurobox for SWMBO so have managed to not got any spannering done today. Given the temperature that's possibly not a bad thing...
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I'm rebuilding my front axle currently, using Britpart Teflon Ball kits - but with OEM (Corteco) seals instead of the Britpart ones. I'm following the guide in the tech archive as well as the Haynes.
Following Les' advice, I tried to drift in the bush using an ally lump, but didn't quite get it square on and managed to mark my bush. Cue lots of Anglo-Saxon and the odd bit of Hungarian for good measure. The ball itself, thankfully, is totally unmarked.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52529728@N07/8582969519/'>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52529728@N07/8582969519/'>Britpart Bush by http://www.flickr.com/people/52529728@N07/'>udderlyoffroad, on FlickrThing is, I'm not convinced that I've damaged it beyond use - surely it doesn't seal where the mark is? Presuming I gently flat off of the raised mark, put it in the freezer for a couple of hours, then attempt to install with a bit more care it should work?
Or would I be better off drifting out the original bushes from my pitted chrome balls (fnar fnar) and using those?
Matt
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I've certainly bought 3/16" brake pipe! And M10 x 1 fittings, which screw happily into my calipers.
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Ralph,
That’s one of my (many) jobs this weekend – piping up the rear axle. When I looked a while back, I couldn’t find brake pipes for sensible money given the above part numbers – so am going to make my own using rubber-line ‘P’ clips to clip them to the axle. The original drum-brake pipes on mine were a rusty mess, but either way I doubt they would reach (or allow themselves to be tweaked far enough) to the correct location for the callipers. Easier just to pipe up with new pipe and fittings.
Matt
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Actually, that's the best idea I heard in a long time.
+1!! Defender Fastrac anyone?
As for the "kaki(sic) special" LR build enough products for the "fur coat no knickers" brigade - and I'm not knocking it, they're doing well out of it & probably saved them from going the way of most of the rest of BL! But I just don't get "pimped" Defenders. Why keep a chiuaua & yap yourself?
Each to their own though.
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I think it shows what happened to local newspaper 'journalists' after their rags closed down due to lack of interest - they're now writing (badly) for thisisbumfecknowhereshire.co.uk !
As to the Discovery: you know how you were always told not to let your wheels spin in mud 'cos you'll only dig yourself in deeper...
Hat, coat, door!
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As long as the holes on the receiver hitch drop plate match the 45x86mm pitch then yes.
Perhaps this page on Retroanaconda's site makes it a little easier to picture what I mean re reinforcement plates.
Just had a look at the Extreme4x4 (Scrapiron??? Pre-dates my LR ownership) website, seems you need a special 2-inch receiver for a NATO hitch:
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That's a fascinating thing to know, as someone who does pressure testing on a variety of things on a fairly frequent basis.
Same here, thanks Zoltan!
'low pressure leaks' - the excuse RAF Ground Crew give to pilots worried about puddles of fluid on the ramp!
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Zoltan,
What would you be testing on the rig? Do you somehow restrain the pistons to prevent them popping out and take up to above max working pressure, hold at pressure and look for leaks?
Incidentally what test pressure would you use on brakes?
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How do I recognise a mark3 Sankey via pictures as that's all people appear to list?
Here's a picture of my MK2
New Toy! by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
Notice the way the NATO hitch is mounted on top of the chassis A-frame and connects via a cable mechanism to the brake drums, in the usual trailer stylee. A MK3’s hitch is in line with the chassis and connects to an hydraulic servo, like this:
had better start looking for a NATO hitch, any important info on these?Yep, if you’re going for a widetrack Sankey (and I would, as these have a drop down tailgate and the correct track to follow a Defender), you will need a rotating hitch. Don’t let someone try to sell you a combined NATO hitch with 50mm ball thing, or a fixed hitch. If I may, I will quote a post I made elsewhere:
You will need a proper swivelling Nato Hitch for it though (Ebay), and either reinforcement plates if you bolt it directly to the rear cross-member, or another slider should you wish to use it with a Dixon-Bate adjustable tow-hitch. There are some NATO hitches out there for Bedford Trucks…these will work, but only when bolted to a Dixon-Bate slider. They’re too big for a Landie Cross-member.You can make reinforcement plates yourself, if you have access to some steel and a drill press or buy them (again Ebay)
Reinforcement plates for the cross-member:
Inner one 10mm thick, 13mm clearance holes on 45x86mm centre. LR p/n: 531448
Outer one: 6mm thick. 13mm clearance holes on 45x86mm centre. LR p/n: 523807
There is an outer plate with eyes for the breakaway cable too LR p/n KNK500030
Nato Stock Number: 2590 99 453 0975
Apropos breakaway cable, I don’t have a p/n for that, but you should fit one. It needs to be longer than a standard trailer one, maybe someone (Jason??) can help.
Unless you have an ex-MOD Land Rover you will need to change the electrical connector from a military one to a standard 7 pin (or 13 pin if you prefer) trailer connector. Do yourself a favour and change the bulbs too, as they may be 24v ones, but if even if not they’ll be old!
Google is your friend for the workshop manual and wiring schematic.
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They do still come up occasionally on Withams auctions.
Incidentally, a colleague was down at Universal Engineering (one of the manufacturers of the Sankey) last year and said he saw 'loads' in for refurbishment - so there will be more released (eventually).
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oh well, here we go again....!
Spoken like a true Landie Owner!
Sounds like you got yourself a capable motor for not much money...in the spirit of the forum guidance on member's vehicles posts, will you putting up a (hopefully quiet and uneventful) running repairs thread?
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For sale: '98 3 door disco. 225,000 miles, 5 months mot
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Asking price 850. No movement on that.
the guy selling it buys motors he thinks are priced well, or haggles for a better price, and then turns them out as quickly as possible for a small profit. he rarely does anything mechanical to them. i guess it's like buying a px car - it is what it is, take it or leave it. as far as history goes, last owner was a woman, and that's all got!Sorry, but someone who 'flips' cars (to use the American term) for a bit of beer money is open to negotiation, don't let him convince you otherwise. To my mind, it's about 200 notes too much. Especially given the lack of a towbar - I know some people consider it a good sign - but frankly on an LR (where it's a case of undoing four bolts to remove) it most likely will have been fitted and then removed. Also, a total lack of history, or a reticence on the seller's part to give details sets alarm bells ringing. Doesn't mean I would walk, but I would treat as a project car so therefore wouldn't go over £650.
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Thanks for the thoughts chaps. I'll need both 'town and country mode', i.e. turn-by-turn (as new job involves jumping in and out of hire cars) as well as something for off-road navigation at the weekend. This means I can leave the dedicated DaveDave Satnav box in the daily driver for SWMBO.
Seriously tempted to pick up one at the airport tomorrow and see how it goes...unless anyone can come up with any alternative for similar money.
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Hi all, as title really, anyone used this tablet in anger as a navigation aid? If so which software did you use? It seems to be one of the few on the market with a proper GPS chip at this price.
Matt
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The issue with in-drum brakes is to do with lowering out a long distance under load i.e. lowering yourself down a hill or something similar, or running out the whole rope under power.
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I should imagine that suppliers over-egg the problem a bit to make sure they don't get people coming back moaning their rope has turned to mush. The basic rule is don't power out the rope, freespool it, and if your freespool is seized or broken, then fix it.
Thing is, I can think of a few non-competition applications where the winch is powered out with load on it....people using their winch to offload trailers for instance, or ahem, tree-surgeon-style applications. In which case, steel rope is definitely the way to go...
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TPFT isn't always cheaper than fully comp - incredible but true.