UdderlyOffroad
-
Posts
881 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
-
-
As an Admin all I can say is... take care and pop in here for abuse and laughs any time
^^ This!
All the best for you and your family Jason.
Matt
-
Mine would only fit one way, tighter coils at the top (apologies not the best photo):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52529728@N07/7183631713/'>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52529728@N07/7183631713/'>IMG-20120611-00580 by http://www.flickr.com/people/52529728@N07/'>udderlyoffroad, on Flickr -
In reaction to hearing about defenders with obviously galv'd chassis going missing, I've painted mine. And instantly regretted it. The look of a defender with all the steel bits galv'd is lovely, and I wish I hadn't painted anything now
^ This! Soutie on here did his research and found the correct paint for fresh galv, so it looks good. I used "Hammerite Direct to Galvanised" - which has chipped easily and looks a bit pony. But, the only thing directly visible will ultimately be the rear cross member, so will tidy that up before the body tub goes on.
It went from this (shiny, nice finish):
Chassis After Galving! by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
To this (flaky finish):
Finally....a rolling chassis by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
Back on topic:
I've been talking to a local fab shop who get a lot of stuff galv'd, who said I can sling it all on with one of their loads, which should make it cheaper. The quality of the stuff they get back is great, and the dippers are a lot in Cardiff, who have experience from small parts up to really big lumps, taking in a lot of car parts/whole car shells on the way. Being as they get a truck down every few weeks, it'll save me a long trip too.I too have heard good things about the Cardiff lot. I got my chassis+brackets dipped by the Bristol mob, whilst their staff were good, the gaffer (the guy who wrote the invoice) was a bit of an arsey jobsworth! Finding a local fabshop that uses them is a good shout...
Anyway, I think I've run out of things to get done...unless the collective wisdom can come up with anything else?
-
Some pictures of sump cleaning here - including access on a 200 Tdi. Not directly applicable but might be useful for someone else.
-
All depends what you source for sensible money, local to you, that preferably you can see+hear running first. That to me is the biggest factor driving the 200 or 300 TDI question.
Most rotten Discos you see on ebay are now 300s so that could well be what you end up with. Ideally buy one with a week's MOT left so you can drive it home!
-
I've done the same as Pat_pending - on his reccomendation. Can't give you any feedback yet though, sorry!
-
Shame we haven't been able to have the same 25 year rolling scheme in place with road tax isn't?
Slightly O/T, but it will be 1974 from next year - not quite a restoration of the rolling 25-year exemption but it's a start.
AFAIK, USA do not have a MOT vehicle test like we are subject too, just watch some of the US pimp my ride series to see how bad some of the everyday cars get, they would be pulled off the road here for the dangerous condition they are in.so I don't understand why the US DOT are being so stuffy with imported vehicles.
Varies from State to State. But yes, 'protecting US citizens' seems more like playing to the gallery rather than actual facts given some of the sheds I've seen on the road in various States (and states!).
But to be honest, unless you're BLR, Nene or Shamels-R-Us ltd, it won't affect the majority of users on here surely?
-
Plus spring seat plates (and retainers)
Mine at least were a rusty mess, and new (galved) ones from Paddocks were £5.50 IIRC
-
How about the guards for the brake disks? Or the back plates in the case of drums?
I suspect those biscuit-tin lids would warp, you could try it though!
This is actually quite timely as I've just taken delivery of an uncoated Guardian Tank Guard...my current list (based on my 110 USW project):
- Tank Guard
- Steering Guard (Secondhand)
- Winch Bumper (Ditto)
- Rock Sliders (Not yet fabricated)
- Tub body mount brackets (already done)
- Tub caps (ditto)
- Station wagon rear body cross member (ditto)
- Gearbox x-member
- Engine mounts
- Tub members
- Bulkhead mounting brackets
- Bulkhead???
That's as far as I got - honestly you could take it to the enth degree. But I wouldn't bother with overly thin-parts (below 2mm?) because of the risk of warpage.
-
SO presumably...people will now be importing sheds to the US then converting them there once in-country? After all, the container with a 110 in it should have plenty of room in it for (blue) boxes...
-
I changed mine for a 1.2...then realised land rover got it right at the factory and put the 1.4 back in!
Adam, please could you expand a bit on that...what made you swap back? Lack of towing/uphill grunt?
I guess I don't have to worry, because I have the T-box from my the Discovery that donated my 200 TDI as well as the Defender's original T-box. It's just I'd like to fit the 'right' one first off.
-
Possibly. But I'll wager even gen-u-whine PCL prefer the vibration-isolating goodness of a short length of rubber (fnar fnar).
Might be getting slightly off-topic here...
-
It's short length of hose that attaches directly to the windy gun, and prevents the vibrations from the tool knackering the quick connect coupler.
Might seem a bit OTT but after a day spent removing rusty bolts from a chassis you'll notice the leak where the was none
-
Uhhm, yep that's the one. Not what you'd call a high-quality piece of kit, but for those of us who don't spanner for a living, it does the job very well. The occasional drop of oil up the spout is all it needs.
The irony is of course a set of impact-y (deep) sockets will cost £30 or so and therefore more than the tool!
Do your airline fittings a favour and pickup the bits you need to make a short 'whip hose' though...
-
You'll get there...I took this yesterday, a good feeling when you finally bolt it all back together will new swivels+bits
Finally....a rolling chassis by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
Now to refurb the brake calipers....
-
Or just get up 5 mins earlier and consume coffee before leaving, cost = nowt!
Nah, the speed Defenders go, you need coffee on long journeys!
-
Well, I've used battery electric drills (holding an adaptor) as nut runners, and I find them just a pain, as it's just another tool change, especially if there is only one socket that fits, and needs transferring from battery gun to hand tool, every time.
....
I ask as a private owner, rather than someone getting paid for his time.
Really, when using impact drivers, special impact-rated sockets should be used. Normal chrome-vanadium sockets can shatter when subjected to repeated blows. Therefore, most pros don’t have to change sockets constantly, as they already have two off sets. Even as someone who spanners for a hobby, I spent £30 on a set of deep, impact sockets from Ebay, and they do the job quite well.
In answer to Nige’s question, I have yet to come across a battery powered impact wrench that comes down on the price-power curve on the side that he (and indeed I) would be after. I suspect your best option would be to buy whatever brand/size matches your existing battery drill. – That way at least you can swap batteries in short order and have one on charge.
That said, for workshop use, I have an ebay-special air-driven £15 windy-gun, which will undo LR wheel-nuts (but needs a meatier compressor than I have). I also a cordless Screwfix 10.8v LI-Ion screwdriver – which as a nut runner is fantastic.
Not much help I’m ‘fraid, HFH.
-
Know how you feel, my front axle cost £300 notes in parts, and seemed to take aaaaaages.
I binned the rusty biscuit tin lids masquerading as brake disc shields too!
-
Local metal fabricators, for what you need buy offcuts for beer money.
Also never walk past a skip...
Steel stockholders usually will only sell by the length (6m!)
-
This is really a thread about ' the right tool for the job', but I've just taken a gander at:
http://www.honeybros.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=catshow&ref=TirforWinches
And uttered the Bolton war-cry ("Ow much?!").
For that kind of money, the usual suspects (Goodwinch or Ebay-special) could provide you with a winch and bumper, or even a towbar-mounted removable rear winch. And you'd still have enough change for a winching course.
As has been said, if you're on your own, Tirfors aren't much fun....
-
Ok ! every one likes the thought of a stainless exhaust, but £303!! Let's look at this objectively ££££££.
I think if you look at it objectively in financial terms, the Defender is a poor choice of vehicle unless you have a highly specialized application such as a utility company off-road light truck. Fortunately we're not accountants so we don't. But as you mention it - 3 in 7 years at £25 a pop = £75. And that's just one component. And that's assuming labour to fit it is free. For you it might be, for an accountant, it isn't. Starts to make a £303 exhaust system more appealing.
No reason for it to rust.I think you're assuming that trapped water is the only reason exhausts corrode. It isn't.
At the end of the day, a mild steel exhaust system must be seen as a wear item. A stainless exhaust system, provided it is made of the correct grade material isn't. Keep in mind too that if a 'custom' system is required, the material cost pales into insignificance compared to the labour cost.
You pays your money, etc.
Matt
-
So that's what a double-cab Ibex looks like...
Should be a good project - will watch with interest!
You going to change your forum name Mike
Tomcat, -> MikeBarge, -> Mike2Ibexes
-
A poor seal will allow diff oil into the wheel bearings, shaft splines & help to keep these items well lubricated..
Ralph, I thought that was ok on the rear but not wise at the front as all it'll do is drain the one-shot from the swivel housings?
I removed the bush by drilling a hole in it to one side and then collapsing it with a cold chisel. Then replaced the seal and drifted a new bush into place.If you don't have a new bush then your option will be a puller or a long drift from the other side as above.
Thanks James - destructive it is then. I couldn't get even my longest drift down the through the stub-axle and onto the bush surfaces. I say drift like it was a proper tool. More of a "bit o' bar". I did see some very smart 'Bergen' long drifts at Newbury on Sunday but decided I was too tight to buy them!
Bushes are mildly marked, so could probably dress them and and reassemble, but as the axle's been stripped to its component parts and rebuilt, seems silly not to do these last little bits, especially as I already have new OEM seals. Bushes on order anyway.
-
Ah yes! I remember that! I think it was Nick and I who were talking too you.
Hope you've found a use for it!
Steve
Ahh that was you Steve (and Nick) - Good to meet you! Budget wouldn’t stretch to an X-brake sadly but don’t need it for a while yet anyway.
Yea no plans as yet. As I think I said, I actually need a new floor for my 110 CSW tub (area around the seatbelt mounts corroded badly) but even ‘un bent’ I fear it will be too small! But £10 for that amount of chequer plate isn’t bad – am sure I can find a use for it!
I’ll definitely bring a trolley next time though…who knows I might be selling some of my surplus tat…er quality Land-Rover-related hardware
Fabricating rear crossmember?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I don’t understand why you want to use wood – presumably locally-sourced timber as it isn’t affected by your corrosive environment compared to steel? Still a moisture/dirt trap any however you attach it –even with spacers.
The reason Land Rover – as well as others use semi-enclosed box section is that it’s far stronger than open section. That said, if you look at a modern truck, you’ll see the ladder frame chassis is in fact C-section. I can only suggest you look at a bumper like Black Sheep’s design, and replicate that, with as many openings as possible to allow you to drain / clean out the dirt+salt. I just don’t think you’ll get away with having no horizontal section. If nothing else the rear tub needs something to sit on.
As for fabricating a completely enclosed section, I think that is ultimately fruitless. It may not initially allow foreign debris in, but when it does (not if), it then can’t get out again. Fine for a comp truck in the UK but I would think twice about doing it on a road-going vehicle.
I don’t know what your local vehicle roadworthiness test is (If any) – here in the UK a replacement cross-member will pass, provided it looks vaguely original and as strong as what it replaces (Hence Steve200Tdi not having any issues with his custom fabrication), but of course somewhere like Switzerland or Germany it would be a big fat no to anything except an original replacement.
To summarise: Fabricate something simple but semi-enclosed so you can regularly clean it out, and use the time saved to make some kind drive-on ramp (out of locally sourced timber?) to enable you to regularly inspect clean the underneath of the vehicle. Here in the UK we would use a pressure washer to blast away the salt/road debris, but I suspect that isn’t an option as fresh water is at a premium where you live?