UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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Have you got added lights on the back? as in high level lights? My 300tdi does the same and as Ralph pointed out to me before I need to put a relay in between the main lights and high level to stop this
You could use an adjustable relay (intended for LED indicators) - you simply adjust the knob on the with indicator on until the speed is correct and the trailer light stops flashing. Might help in the OP's case too.
Matt
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I'm building my own, mainly to enable it to be tailored to the exact dimensions of the base (in my case 20' x 14').
Another build thread James?
Matt
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As a result of European legislation adopted in 2008 dedicated daytime running lights (DRL) have been required on all new types of passenger cars and small delivery vans since February 2011. Trucks and buses followed from August 2012.
New types, not new vehicles, in other words, all new vehicle designs submiited for type approval. Hence the Defender can remain DRL-less.
Back to the OP's question:
I'm looking to change the side lights on my 2013 Defender 90, anyone just changed the bulbs, if so what for?What exactly are you hoping to achieve? If you find sidelights too dim, you should have your headlights on? Sidelights are meant to illuminate your vehicle when parked on a badly lit road.
If you mean replacing the bulbs with LEDs - then that's not strictly legal, although I've yet to hear of anyone getting fined for such a transgression.
All of this applies in the UK - putting your location in your profile can help others answer queries sometimes. Welcome to the forum, by the way!
Matt
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Have a look at lrdirect.com and lrseries.com Both give you a choice of manufacturers for a given p/n. However you do have to know the p/n!
Matt
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Might be an idea to contact YRM with this tale & offer to be test-mule for this business oppurtunity for them!
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Might be worth a post on Def2, I get the feeling the average age of users' trucks over there is considerably less than LR4x4, and are consequently more likely to be interested in diagnostic tools.
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Maybe just buy the press, do the job (properly and taking your time) then sell the press s/h for 75% of its purchase price, or even if you only get 50% you're still ahead of the game compared to going to a garage, or replacing a vice. I got one of these.
Does it work ok for bushes? I recall seeing the gauge hit 12 tonnes at the garage, but then I guess the gauge isn't exactly calibrated often...
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Agreed! I knackered a vice too. Took the rears to a friendly local garage to press out+in. Made the mistake of dropping the fronts off at a local LR 'specialist' who wanted £40 for 15mins labour.
All depends on whether the truck is your daily drive!
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DieselDog, I suspect you *are* flogging a dead horse, if they refuse to take it to a mechanic who knows about the intricacies of the green oval. Any 10year-old high-end motor needs specialist attention, not just LR. Otherwise you're just paying labour for the garage to learn about the car!
Matt
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- you’re not towing a trailer
Watch out for this last one, once you've loaded the landie with 10 of your mates, you're going to need somewhere to stow their gear. And frankly a Land Rover that can't tow a trailer is like a broken pencil...pointless.
I did, for non-LR reasons enquire about the costs of obtaining a D1+E licence. £1600 was the cheapest quote I got. I uttered the Bolton war-cry and put the phone down ('ow much?!').
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Definitely done that before too, ie bounced around the lanes in Somerset and ended up with hazards on. Took several attempts at ignition on/off before the blady thing would cease flashing!
Matt
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Thing is, the only way to truly fix the build Quality issues is to start again from scratch. Otherwise they're just chasing their tales constantly. Look at the water-ingress issues. Try as they might, LR just couldn't stop the leaks without major changes to the panel design. Easier solution was to just delete the carpets from the base spec!
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Just to add to the above: don't abuse a vice to press in bushes. That's why I had track down a decent Record vice on t'ebay, and they aint cheap.
Also the bit of vice that fell to the ground was f-heavy, even with my steel toe-capped boot!
As for fold-y axle stands, they might be TuV rated, but I prefer summat solid between me & a two-tonne invitation to meet my maker!
That said, most axle-stand related accidents are caused by user-error.
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Got a Nilfisk on special from, off all places, Argos. So far happy, and got some poke to it. Better than the black & decker crud that I swapped it for.
Matt
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So Q plates are stigmatised through laziness and poor education, both traits you couldn't accuse their owners of having
This. Like/+1/retweet/hashtag getalifeMatt
So I guess, if you're planning on keeping the truck for the forseeable, it comes down to finding an insurance company who knows what they're talking about?
In other words, this debate is only really relevant if you plan to sell it? "My truck, I'll do what I (legally) like!"
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Back on-topic, I went to Newbery earlier in the year. Decent selection, but it does depend what you're looking for. I tend to pick up things that will need work, for not much money, late in the day. I walk straight past people asking £150 for a tatty winch bumper!
As I previously alluded to, there was a visible police presence there too, in a tidy 110!
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Worth noting that from TD5 onwards, the Land Rovers schematics are actually quite good, and readable. For anything pre-TD5 you're better off using Haynes
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I think what Landy Novice meant to say is, once you get to an Autojumble where parts are being sold to joe public, there isn't much you can do to satisfy beyond all doubt that you're buying kosher parts. If a seller has lots of panels that seem too straight to be true (and a bad attitude), walk away and have a quiet word with the constable patrolling the site. Other than that, you take a caculated risk at an autojumble. I've no wish to support the illicit trade in stolen parts, but neither will I spend hours having moral dilemmas.
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Has your new farmer neigbour got a teleporter?
Crikey farmers are getting high-tech :-)
Are they waving phasers at trespassers too, shouting "ger off my land!"
My hat and coat? Why thank you!
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If you were in the UK you could pick up a set steelies with something road-biased for not much on the bay, as people who buy MT wheel+tyre packages flog off their old set. Not very helpful I know!
However, a quick google search reveals that Belgium doesn't require winter tyres, but recommends them. Might that figure in your search? I.e. a set with a 'winter rating' for mud + winter, and an everyday/summer set?
Personally, I don't like alloys on off-road vehicles, period. But I know I'm in a minority here!
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You could not however tow a larger trailer such as a car transporter or horsebox, even unloaded.
I think i'll email them this query, specifically regarding a larger trailer, and see how they respond!
You could, IF you had a post Jan 2013 licence
Licences issued from 19 January 2013From 19 January 2013, drivers passing a category B (car and small vehicle) test can tow:
- small trailers weighing no more than 750kg
- trailers weighing more than 750kg, where the combined weight of the towing vehicle and the trailer isn’t more than 3,500kg
But not a 1997 - 2013 licence. This is the madness of it, they have made a nice simple rule, but not applied it retrospectively.
I suspect the reason they'vechanged it this way is that it is easier to enforce. If you get pulled over at a weighbridge, as long as you're < 3500 kg, on your way son. If you're over....time to break out the fixed penalty notice...saves arguing with traffic officers about the what constitutes MAM and Weight.
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So, Kerb weight of a 110 is 2123kg (for a modern 110 CSW), per http://www.carpages.co.uk/guide/land-rover/land-rover-defender-110-station-wagon.asp
Good luck finding a MAM on the ID plate of a Sankey, but lets assume the 375kg kerb weight is accurate.
375+750 = 1125 kg Sankey 'MAM'
2123 > 1125 => Ok to Tow on B licence 1997-2013, and 2013+
2123 + 1125 = 3248 kg. 3248 < 3500 kg => Ok to Tow on B licence 1997-2013, and 2013+
So even a fully loaded Sankey can be towed behind a 110. I will check my figures at home when I can see the ID plate of my older 110 and the Sankey.
The confusion occurs for 2 reasons:
- The payload of the sankey is 750 kg - this is not its MAM
- It's actually quite easy to overload a Sankey. And remember that kerb weight of the 110 doesn't include whatever you put in a the tow vehicle.
For 1997 - 2013 licences only:
3500-2123 = 1377 kg MAM of any trailer you can tow (again check this against the kerb weight written in your v5).
For 2013+ licences
Whatever you like, upto 3500 kg train weight ("trailers weighing more than 750kg, where the combined weight of the towing vehicle and the trailer isn’t more than 3,500kg")
3500 - 2123 =
So for 2013+ licences they've simplified it, but tragically for the 1997-2013 licencees, not applied it retrospectively. Either way(having checked your V5), tow your sankey behind your truck with impunity. Just don't overload it!
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Yeh, the point there being that "fully loaded trailer" means MAM, and not "the amount of weight i happen to have put on it today"
So MAM still has to be below unladen weight, but the 3500kg combination is actual weight.
No, it means weight. As per the email confirmation from the DVLA. Hence why mike4444244 asked them.
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Awesome, I know the direct.gov website used the word 'weight' not MAM (physics fail!) - but this apparently wasn't enough for some people. Any chance you could post up a scan of your written confirmation (with your personal info blanked out of course) - this would help allay future queries.
Cheers,
Matt
I went to Newbery and all I got was, er...a winch
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Evening all. Hoping somebody here can help. Whilst perusing the stands at Newbery the other day I found this for suitably low amount, so I failed to resist the temptation and bought it, for £60. Apologies for the terrible photo
Winch! by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
The p/n sticker on it says RTC9587AB. This appears to be a SuperWinch Husky X6, however googling for that appears to show a winch which looks nothing like mine. Any ideas what it actually is? And does anyone have a link to a manual/parts diagram?
I touched the two wires onto a battery, and it appeared to work, and even the freespool lever appears to do its thing, so that's a start anyway! I assume the winch can be made to 'pay out' by dint of reversing the polarity via a solenoid?
Matt
P.S. in case anyone's wondering just why I bought a winch when I'm still at the 'rolling chassis' stage of my build, well, I'm a weak-willed creature, and also, I need to send a load of stuff for galvanising, so I might as well fettle my £15 winch bumper to fit and set that off too!