UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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Do you mean the front or rear centre seat from the Multipla? And, come to that, fitted to the front or rear of the Defender?
Scenic Seats have been done a couple of times (in the rear), I intend to do the same myself. Scenics are relatively common in scrap yards, hence the popularity of the conversion.
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2nded. There are places in the US where you will need a 4x4 (e.g mountains in Arizona in Winter, to quote the example of where my brother lives), but I wouldn't go to the hassle and expense of importing my LR just for that. Hire/buy something local.
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I've got a Halfords top chest and Clarke HD base unit, both bought on special. Both not bad for the money, but if I was to buy again I'd probably go for Halfords industrial on special.
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Point is, if it’s a ‘trickle’ maintenance-style charger (Ctek or the Lidl knock-off in my case), it should happily cope with being hooked up whilst the rest of the vehicle is connected. In fact most of them are even designed for permanent installation for garage-queen (rivet-counter) cars. This type of charger is unlikely to revive a truly dead battery however.
However, I would still suggest not playing with jumpleads from your Anderson socket, as it won’t take much of a knock to short the two croc clips out, and you’ll be into under-wear change territory. Unless of course you wire up your charger with an Anderson plug…
All of this of course is merely fixing the symptoms not the cause. Even if only used on short journeys, your LR’s starting and charging system should be able to cope. Give your battery a good charge and take it for a drive. Make sure you’re getting 14.4v at the terminals with the engine running. If not, suspect alternator+wiring. If you are, check it stays above 12.5v with the engine off. If it doesn’t, it’s either a suspect battery or a parasitic current drain. Much has been written on the subject of finding faults with the electrical system. A google site search of lr4x4.com should dig up some useful threads.
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I was given a brand new £150 Sealey twelve speed. Not amazing quality, but fine for the use described. Previously I had a £45-odd Superstore job that I’d had since I was about 15 – which worked well, as long as you didn’t try drill holes over 13mm!
Packing an ex-industrial machine for export, and then sourcing a three-phase convertor….yea that’ll be expensive. I wouldn’t bother either, totally OTT for the use you describe.
O/T – I don’t know what it is about pillar drill handles but they like falling out…Loctite is the solution!
My take on this is that the extra cost is an unaviodable concequence of living in the Falklands. You'll be winning on other items that will be relatively cheap compared to what we pay.O/T again - but what is cheaper in the Falklands, other than penguin burgers?
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Excellent resource! Better than the Russian sites.
Thanks Henk
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http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69322-fuchs-renolit-ep-00-grease.aspx
Not bad value, for those with more LRs than sense!! ;-)
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To be fair to Paddocks, some of their own-brand stuff e.g. their salisbury diff guard ain't bad for the money, I've got their HD turrets to fit, which again seem good for the ££££ concerned.
Let's not get into another bash-the-Britpart thread, it's been done on here countless times before...
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No idea. But a website design as bad as John Craddocks I’m afraid doesn’t get my business!
LR Direct offer you a choice of the supplier of the bits so you can choose – that’s currently my supplier of choice (as well as Christian Autos local to me).
No hidden agenda, just a satisfied customer of the two mentioned.
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Got me a pattern one (item 1, QRF100870 for your model year, assuming TD engine) for not many £££ and appears to work fine:
Didn't bother with the 'shear nuts' though (item 5) - probably not the best security but hey it's a defender!!
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Busted! Your penance shall be a build thread for the 101...
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Finally a good use for a caravan!
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This any help?
IMG-20120512-00513 by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
Basically a crank-pulley holder, a la homebrew, with an f-off long extension bar on it (reacting to the torque by virrtue of resting on the ground, followed by a 3/4" breaker bar with an f-off long extension on it. I broke my 1/2" breaker bar....
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Before you spend money upgrading a Salisbury axle – whether it’s lockers or a disc-brake conversion – make sure you cost everything up carefully, it soon mounts up! It may well be cheaper to find a later standardised axle and add toys to that, which will give you disc brakes into the bargain.
E.g.
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And presumably once you've done all this work, you'll have to convince the "TUV Engineer" to stamp the paperwork too?
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Have you got a roofrack mike? How about some kind of de-rigable lifting eye to support a small block and tackle?
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Apparently this is a 'Scrapiron' design (no idea, they pre-date my involvement with Landies), but the following linkie has lots of helpful piccies:
http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/REAR_WHEEL_CARRIERS.html
Also, check this chap's thread out (it's on a Toyota, but again lots of useful piccies):
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56385
Both links saved in my favourites under 'future projects'
HTH,
Matt
(Armchair fabricator)
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Bill,
I guess you've just done this yourself? Any pictures you'd care to share with the group, especially the mounting frames?
Matt
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They list them with the Durite catalogue numbers - 01252 and 01253
Not quite, according to the Durite catalogue 0-012-52 and 0-012-53. Should be able to find a distributor more locally to you. I did try looking on ebay.be, but all the sellers were listed in "Verenigd Koninkrijk" ! At least they ship internationally....
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I’m converting my 110 van (HT) to a Station wagon, so I never had a self-leveller fitted. Rather than try to source one, I’ve fitted the later TD5-era ‘progressive’ springs, I.e. the standard LR fitment after they abandoned the self-leveller unit themselves. I can’t comment on the ride though, as my truck’s still in bits. However it might be the way to go to get you back on the round for minimal outlay. P/N RKB101111.
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Looks like a really tidy rebuild Gruntus!
Somewhat O/T, but would you mind posting some more pics of your engine bay?
Matt
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I saw that and uttered the infamous Bolton war-cry.
"'ow much!"
Nice if you're a rivet counter (your anorak's in the post Retro...) but an immaculate Landie (with square edges) is a bit...well, not right somehow. It needs to have the odd dent and ding, otherwise what's it for?
Just my £0.02
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This http://www.mod-sales...ange_Rover_.htm has just gone up on Witham's site, at nearly 4 tons!
What licence would you need to drive it?!
The kind of places where you'd drive it isn't the kind of place where the police are too bothered about driving licence categories, and if they are, $50-100 is folding ones will usually take care of that....But as JBS has said you'd better have the training to know how to drive it....
And I think on balance, I'd prefer my armour plating to be discrete
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Not so much a heap, but funny none the less:
With sales-spiel like that, no wonder he hasn't got any bids!
Also:
flashing orange Light cover now missing as it didn't fit under Mc Donalds height bar.Just about says it all really.
I guess the serious point is, this guy bought a work-vehicle and expected modern eurobox-convenience. He was disappointed.
Diesel Dipping - Testing VOSA
in Getting out and about
Posted
Seriously?
I doubt the good burghers of White Ladies Road know what red diesel is
They might as well setup a checkpoint on the King's Road in London....
Chelsea Tractor != Tractor
But seriously (and assuming we're talking about older Landies here), if you want to save on fuel, run veg oil. It's legal up to a certain amount per year.
As for 'removing' Red Diesel...yes that's just what builders, contractors and farmers need in the UK, more paperwork. As for your dirt bikes, nobody said you had to run these on 'road taxed' fuel...it's just that 'red petrol' isn't generally available. Assuming, that is, you're talking about running them on private land...
I'm surprised the nobody from the V8 mafia has yet stepped in with a "Satan's Fuel" comment
Hat, coat, door.