UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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I am not a Td5 owner but I'm fairly sure you won't be able to reprogram the ECU by use of the OBD socket. Even if you don't need to reprgoram it, you'll probably not be able to clear the fault codes
Ask your local independent Landie specialist to drive to your place (possibly on his way home as a 'cash' job ;-) with his diagnostic machine (Nanocom/Hawkeye etc).
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If you prefer to buy something from a shop you could do worse than Machine Mart:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cat73-air-hydraulic-riveter
Sign up to their email-list (to a spam address) and get their VAT off voucher emailed through. Whilst I haven’t used the Clarke one, I’ve used one identical in design, to rivet ally treadplate loadbeds to trucks (hundreds of the bu**ers) and it was fantastically easy, and produced a visually very neat rivet. You can probably find a better deal online though.
You’ll find that even cheap air tools are more robust and able to withstand daily use better than their cheap electrical tool bretheren.
Compressors:
Several threads in the tools and fabrication forum on this. Basically, buy the largest you can afford in terms of motor HP (= Free air delivery) and tank size. A compressor is one of those ‘how did I manage without?’ tools. Whilst you think you may need one only for this task, soon its use expands. That said, I bought a factory-return ‘Wolf’ compressor (the kind you see advertised in the back of Saturday Papers), and it’s stood up well to 6.5 years of use so far. But I couldn’t use it for spraying or sand blasting. And no, I didn’t think I would want to do either of those tasks initially either…
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Plenty of threads on this and other forums debating the merits of various split-charge systems. There is no 'right' answer to this one. It depends on your intended application.
My take on it (given I haven't actually got to that stage in my rebuild yet!):
VSR or split-charge relay, essentially it's a case of tomato/tomato. All it does is sense the engine is on and charging, and connects the two batteries together. It's only how it determines the state of the engine that differs. Either way, even an 'HD relay' may not be suitable for connecting the two batteries together when winching...the potential to draw large currents across the relay contacts will shorten its life.
I want my split charge to do both, i.e. let me run camping kit without discharging the starter battery AND be additional power available for winching or jumpstarting. Therefore, I'm going to fit an suitable relay to connect the two batteries when the engine is running, but also have a suitable rated manual switch (this one) to allow me to connect them together. Actually it'll do more than that, in that I can join both batteries, or select which battery powers the winch. To top it all off, the split charge relay can be manually switched via a Carling switch on the dash, and a voltmeter can monitor both batteries.
The two alternators option is there, but frankly to my mind it's mechanically complicated, and imposes additional load on the engine that will reduce power available to the gearbox. I think your typical alt requires about 2-3 HP to turn - so why have two alternators sapping power at half load all the time when you could have 1 alt sapping power at full load when required. Overly simplistic I know, but you get the point.
Which might sound ridiculous, as I've no intention of building a challenge truck (it's a 110, FFS!), but let's face it the 200 Tdi doesn't have that many HP to spare...your mileage and application may vary...
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I was going to direct you to the pdfs posted online of the later (TD5) wiring diagrams as they show the pinouts of the connectors, but I can't find the link to it at the moment (am sure an adult will be along to help us shortly). Meantime, here's a screengrab from the pdf that should help:
Matt
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I've driven a 2.4L (2010 - 60 plate) one and think it's a bag of **** if that's any help
Fair enough! Any particular reason?
Maybe I'm just used to a petrol 2.5 NA...
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Has anyone on here driven a MY12 Defender? Reason I ask is 'cos I've spent the weekend driving a new transit minibus from Snowdon to Fort William for the annual work 'charidee' challenge. It pulls bloody well for a tranny all through the 6 gears so an empty Defender should go like a scalded cat. If only there wasn't a bar-steward 62mph limiter on the thing!!!
Ok, so I'm unlikely to buy a MY12 defender but just in case I do give up this engineering lark & start a business where I 'need' one...what are people's thoughts?
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I must be in the wrong job. How you lot can afford a fondleslab and to run a landie is beyond me. ;-)
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The bracket on the 110 item has to fit the Salisbury diff, which IIRC has a different bolt pattern on the pan (where the bracket affixes) to a 90 diff.
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Looks like I’m going to be in the minority here:
If you don’t have the time or space to do this yourself, and you have the cash for the trade-in, do it! Garage labour is expensive, and by the time you’ve paid for a chassis swap (which even at a specialist ain’t cheap) and the Exmoor seats are serious £££, you won’t be much better off. Also, once you’ve done all this, you still won’t have a truck with rear passenger doors, which will make using the rear seats a pain (assuming you’re talking about Exmoor forward facing fold-down jobs rather than inwards facing). Hence my suggestion of getting a ‘proper’ CSW.
Yes there is a lot to be said for ‘better the devil you know’ – but the thing is, you already know the 110 relatively well, so you’ll know what to look for. As for ex-police vehicles being thrashed…hmmm yes but they are very well maintained, and presumably if it’s a landie, then it will have been on a slightly more rural, quiet beat, than say a Ford Focus thrashed round the estates of Bristol in hot pursuit of pikeys on nicked mopeds.
I’ve just re-read your post and you’re also talking about a galv bulkhead…which is a complete strip-down and rebuild. Which is what I’m doing. But I’ve managed to source all the bits needed from a CSW (doors, tub, C pillars, etc) in order to turn my HT into a USW. I shudder to think how much it would cost to do that if I had to pay someone else to do it. There’s a link to my (stalled) build thread in my signature below.
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Si,
Am afraid I can't help you with the measurements as my truck's in bits at the moment. But I like the idea, definitely superior to a gas strut...my X-eng shopping list has grown, again! (X-trouser, pedal lock and now this!)
Further to over-ride, what about over-load? The PO of my truck managed to punch a hole in the tub, I'm guessing through trying to slam it closed whilst the stay was in the 'locked open' position
D'oh! by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
Do you reckon the leaf spring holding the pawl would yield in the case of severe overloading?
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Mike,
Carlings have gained some traction, as the two main after-market consoles (Mud Console & Raptor Dash) support them out of the box.
Also, unlike a lot of aftermarket switches, these 'look' right, i.e. they don't look like they've come out of a blister-pack on a display stand in your local branch of halfrauds. They certainly suit the Defender.
And yes, they seem to be fairly robust & easy to operate, which suits us sausage-fingered Landie people.
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When I was at Newbury last time, the chap from YRM metal solutions told me to use simple insulating tape between the two. No I didn't like the sound of it either but I figured he would know. Hence I merely pass this nugget on.
In aerospace they use this stuff between two dissimilar metals. Again, I've not used so merely pass it on.
good point, thats the good thing with marine sealant, it dosent stick like tiger seal but whilst creating a barrier also stops water getting in
iv been using marine sealant, seems to be doing the job, once it sets it leaves a rubber mask between the 2 surfaces
Do you have a link to the stuff you've been using Ian?
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Unless I really hammer it on, I suppose
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Unfortunately not, there's too much of a jump, size wise, between the rounded bolt and the next Irwin down...
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So I received my set of Irwins and tried them today....hammered them gently on, they gripped perfectly, I gently heated the bit of the hub wit the threaded holes were, applied a bit of torque, and it slipped...rounding off the bolt. Bu*****! Very round in fact.
What to do? First thought was to split the caliper so I could get to the other side of the hub. This I did. Had to pack up for the day so I left the upside down with yet more penetrating lube soaking into the threads on. All suggestions gratefully received. Maybe angry-grind a slot into the bolt for a large flat screwdriver?
I've also ordered a set of 12-point sockets (couldn't find any 'triple square' or XZNs in 'female' form).
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Unfortunately I couldn't make it either due to family commitments...I did also spot a few trailers heading down the M4 on sat AM loaded with challenge vehicles, but maybe on their way to another event?
By the way, you lot do realise that, locally, 'Shepton Mallet' is pronounced to rhyme with 'Ballet'?
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There is exactly the stuff you speak of available for boats...I've had mixed results using it though.
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Oooh, one Britpart bit I have used in Anger was a replacement rear door lock mechanism for a 110. Fitted perfectly & worked fine.
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I would avoid, as stated, bearings/bushes/gaskets/seals etc because the tolerances are just not there.
G
I ordered a set of 'OEM' bushes from Paddocks, they came in a blue bag with a 'G' after their part number. I've fitted them for now, we'll see how they do...
Actually, the quote is "If it turns, seals or is safety critical - use Genuine" - but the above is close.
I think we (collectively) are much of the problem. We accept poor quality parts without complaining often enough and prefer to buy cheap versions even though common sense would say, for the price they must be made from chewing gum.
Si
They only problem with the expanded statement is that an argument can be made that just about any mechanical part of a vehicle could be considered safety critical. Where do you stop? Braking components, fine; ditto steering bits, but that then includes PAS components, which includes belts and pulleys...and so on.
But I definitely agree with the last statement! We have to, as a group, be fully paid up members of the awkward squad otherwise nowt will change..
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Some people have adopted the following rule:
If it turns or seals, avoid Britpart.
My truck is a project, so I can’t really comment on the quality of various bits I’ve fitted as I’ve yet to test them in anger. But certainly the bulkhead outriggers I fitted were acceptable. Steel was the same thickness as the original, appeared to be the same alignment, welds were good (visual inspection only!!), and a generous coating of paint was present.
Frankly, the likes of LRDierect, LRSeries, Devon4x4 etc offer you a choice, and Bearmach/Allmakes have a better reputation for about the same money, so if you wished to avoid the Blueboxes it’s not that hard logistically!
Also, if a part is poor quality, use the warranty, don’t just chuck it in the skip and be surprised when the quality of parts doesn’t magically improve.
Just my £0.02
Matt
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Mine also stiff as a stiff thing but will move a little, provided I've had my weetabix! Mine hasn't been used in a while either (Tow vehicle in bits next to it on the driveway!!)
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In the old days I would have said "Find your local friendly insurance broker and talk them face to face" - I.e. NFU, CIS, etc....but by all accounts they NFU at least is trying to divest itself of that business? The point being, talk to an actual expert, not an underpaid, undertrained call centre-operative who's used to covering Mondeo-man...
Sell a few cars a year? Get trade insurance!
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Awesome, thanks Ralph!
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Mav,
I meant the tie bars that attach at the chassis rail and at the bottom of the 'ladder'
Not the bit of angle that connects the ladder to the x-member, I've got that! I just appear to have 4 of the former, when I should have 2, none of which quite seem to fit.
If some kind soul could apply a tape measure to their cross braces and tell me the size of the angle iron, I'd be most grateful.
ECU? Yes I know. Again
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Sounds to me like the engine is in 'limp home' mode, in which case you will need to clear the fault codes before it will work properly.
Most likely cause - the water shorted out some contacts, giving odd readings, so the ECU put the engine into limp home mode in order to protect the engine, and logged some faults. It now won't allow the engine to be taken out of limp until these faults are cleared. As you've proven, cutting the power will not clear the codes.