UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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Or machine a thread into the end of the pin to accept a grease nipple? M6x1 IIRC, which is probably too big for (as has been said) a 6mm-odd pin?
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X-Off Pikeys?
I'll get me coat....
But seriously, nice bit of kit! Certainly a better solution than those clanky pedal lock-boxes. Am I correct in thinking you’ve glued a piece of rubber to the side facing the pedals to act as a non-slip surface for your feet when it’s in ‘unlocked’ mode? Also, in that vein, how well will this work with rubber mats, soundproofing etc?
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A decent workshop vacuum cleaner. Especially if you do any woodwork with the pillar drill!
Other than that, if you're doing a lot of work on Landies....a decent flare-nut spanner set and a 3/4" socket set. Amazing how many otherwise-stuck fasteners yield to the 3/4" breaker-bar.
As you have a compressor, get yourself a £15-ebay special rattle gun. A lot of people may sneer, but it will undo 80% of all the bolts a pro-job will do, and won't half save you spannering-time. Also, even a cheapie will subject the nut to more hammer-blows per second than you could ever muster.
If you're doing mainly fabrication work, then as has been said, a metal cutting chop saw.
I covet a lathe, for the same reasons you have the pillar drill....once you have one you wonder how you managed without one. They do take up a looooot of room though.
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That's exactly the discussion I had yesterday... we sold half of our "big stuff" before the gates even opened. Next time, if you're a serious buyer, it would pay to enter as a seller with next to nothing, and then buy buy buy.
Re-he-he-eally? That's useful to know...didn't go this time due to not actually needing anything at the moment...but I will be there next time, with a some used Defender headlinings for sale...and bag some bargains...
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Can you tow a Sankey with a Bradley tow ball – jaw type with pin.
I am looking to buy a Sankey but don’t want to change my tow ball as I also have an ifor Williams trailer so just wondered if the pin is OK for towing a Sankey.
I know I could fit the trailer with a ball hitch but would like to leave it standard if possible.
If I have stuck this in the wrong section or if this question has been asked before I am sorry, I have done a hunt but I am not the best at it.
My other problem will be finding one for sale in Aberdeenshire – I have only ever seen one up here.
Regards
Frax
Does depend on which generation Sankey you buy – if you get the ‘narrow track’ it will have a swivel on the trailer part of the hitch, and will be happy in a non-swivelling plant-trailer type hitch. However, I would urge you to get the newer widetrack – as they have a drop-down tailgate and were designed to be towed by a 90/110 so are far more useful, IMHO. I managed to pick up a swivelling NATO hitch for £20 from Ebay, which I then bolted to a spare drop-plate. The holes were even pre-drilled in the drop-plate!
As for the sourcing one local to you, I initially tried that, but gave up, and got one delivered from Withams for £80, have a read here:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=66086&hl=&fromsearch=1
Don’t forget to budget for a new trailer electrical plug and some 12v bulbs. And it’s quite likely some of the military-style lamps will be broken.
Matt
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Oh and a tip for googling would be to look for 'Logic Gates' instead of 'AND Gates', they tend to be in families anyway so once you find one of the right type the one you are after won't be far away
Facepalm! I knew that...honest
Any CMOS chip will operate on 12v. AND gates are rarely used however. Instead you use NAND (Not AND) where the output is inverted. To implement an AND gate, use a second NAND gate with both inputs connected together - which will invert the output of the first gate giving you a logical AND function.
The relay is simpler though.
Si
What's simpler or more off-the-shelf than the relay?!
Thanks guys, you are both correct of course...I just wanted to ask in case I'd missed a trick. But yes a relay will be much quicker than soldering CMOS chips onto breadboard and heatshrink-wrapping the resultant assembly. Fortunately all I'm driving off this circuit is an LED.
M
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As the subject line really…Is anyone aware of a discrete, ready-built unit that would operate as an AND gate, but with 12v?
I have tried to google this, but 1) Google does boolean search-strings (kinda) and 2) search for 12v Gates produces gates of the common or garden-variety!
I know I could use a relay as described in the picture below, and probably will be what I end up doing, but I was just wondering if anyone had an off-the-shelf solution?
Matt
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First of all, can I add my voice to those already to everyone else in congratulating Jason for organising this…this is a big, public, two fingered salute to those unscrupulous persons-of-questionable parentage who try and diddle people (whether old, young, or just lacking in mechanical expertise). Unfortunately I was unable to help due distance and previous commitments but it appears you hand plenty of experienced hands on board…
Excellent idea Si, I certainly would welcome a ‘fix it’ weekend (certainly my truck could use it!), perhaps with some camping...and maybe play day on the Sunday. But I suspect the main problem is those requiring help probably have an immovable vehicle anyway, and the costs+logisitics associated with transporting/trailering said vehicle make the prospect unattractive.
Getting really advanced here, we could do a fixit+flog surplus bits stand at the Bristol and West Land Rover show? Or Newbury? Speak to the organisers of the former and we might be able to do it indoors in one of their cowsheds exhibition halls. Point is, if we do it at a show, there should be plenty of sources of bits+sundries should we run short!
Otherwise, sign me up for a chez X-eng weekend, even if I just come along to 'learn', rather than bring my truck. It'd be great to see/help with a swivel rebuild, for instance, before taking one on meself...
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with trucks starting at about £1250 up to £1500 plus, are these prices reasonable?
I think you're looking in the wrong places, try entering 'discovery spares or repair' into ebay and sorting the results by nearest to your location. I had to travel a bit for mine (Dorset, going from Bristol), but I picked up 200tdi rotbox with 130k on the clock (with, importantly enough remaining MOT+tax so I could drive it home) for £450...
Oh, and keep hold of it for as long as your other half will tolerate seeing a rotting discovery on your drive...there are loads of bits that can be robbed which aren't immediately obvious but can be made to fit with minimal fettling...such as wiring, loudspeakers, seats if they're in good condition...etc. As you have a 90 you can swap the axles over too, giving you an easy rear disc-brake conversion (not possible on a 110).
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If you don't have a torque wrench, VVVFT is also "two grunts on a 3 foot bar"
It’s worth mentioning that most of the DIY-priced troque wrenches I’ve come across only go up to 200 Nm, so when I re-fitted my towbar I went all the way up to the 200 Nm click, then put the breaker bar on and proceeded to grunt in a manly fashion whilst I gave it the extra 40-or-so Nm by feel!
Make sure you’ve had your Weetabix….
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Personally, I would spend a little bit more and get a 'garage' style jack - one with a handle you can pump whilst stood up. So much better than the 'hobbyist' ones - F-heavy but way more stable and quicker to use too. I've got the screwfix std issue one, which has now gone up to £99 (hence not linked to it!) but does everything a jack should...
Costco were doing a very decent one 'Arcan' copy for £75-odd a while ago, if you have/know anyone who has a card.
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Si,
Excellent idea, and I suspect you might gain more traction with it now, as "whipcash" has gone political! If I were you, I'd write to your MP (theyworkforyou.com) and send a copy into 10 Downing St and the DfT.
What with 'Dave' Cameron now holding summits* on the cost of motor insurance, if this doesn't generate interest from your local MP at the very least I'd be surprised. As you said, the two parties concerned deemed it not in their interest to do anything about it (though that may not be the case now), but surely a motivated MP should take this up like a shot?
(a slightly less cynical) Matt
*honestly, asking the insurance industry how to drive costs down = asking turkeys to discuss the benefits of Christmas
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carling swiches are expensive and you ideally need to re wire. so why not keep the originals? use carling for extra lighting etc
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I always try to keep things standard and factory. makes life so much easier if and when they fail to replace
That sentiment is certainly true, and ordinarily I agree with it wholeheartedly, however I would add the following caveat:
I always try to keep things standard and factory, except when they are known weak spots, in which case I would upgrade to something better (having done some careful research on it first).
It so happens that both std lights and the std hazard switch IMHO fall firmly into the ‘known weak spot’ category. The lights especially crack, discolour, fill with water etc far too easily for my liking. Hence I’m planning upgrading them to the NAS ones, preferably proper, E Marked Perei LED jobs although the budget may not stretch to that.
The hazard switch is another one. It’s known to have internals made of cheese, when I got my truck it was borked, and the (genuine Lucas) replacement didn’t feel as it if it had a match better action. Therefore, I’ll replace it with the Carling hazard switch in my mud dash. Whilst it might not be standard, you can keep the wires going to it the same colour (just extend them from the original connector. Pinouts for the switch are on here and on the Mudstuff site so it shouldn’t cause issues).
Just my £0.02
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<Homer Simpson> mmmmmmmm tool porn
Looks good Soren! Keep us informed how you get on with it.
Are you planning on expanding into rebuilding engines professionally, or just keeping it as the hobby for the time being?
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Whilst I’m not qualified to comment on the effects towing will have on a series transmission* (although the Severn Valley leafer’s link seemed the most sensible, IMHO). With respect to other members on here, given that you received conflicting advice, perhaps a call to Ashcroft transmissions in the UK would give you confidence, given you’d get some answers from a transmissions expert…
Seems that perhaps the best solution would be getting a good trailer setup. A proper, dual (or even tri-) axle car transporter trailer should not impose too much tongue (nose in the UK) weight on a vehicle rated to tow it. Having a good trailer setup also has the advantage that you can get the truck home, should you have some kind of breakdown that makes the vehicle un-towable (bust a diff, steering borked, whatever). Obviously that would not be a cheap solution. A trailer built for the purpose should also not require adjusting of ramps and the like, and with practise and proper tie-down straps you should be able to get the loading down to <5 minutes…ultimate ‘luxury’ is one of those hydraulic tilt-bed trailers which don’t need ramps at all. I’ve hired one in the past and it was really easy to load a car which was basically otherwise immovable (‘barn find’, brakes seized on, tyres flat, etc).
Just my $0.02
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How often? At a guess, behind your RV, quite a lot?
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I'm afraid my inner pikey doesn't see the point of expensive alarms, especially when as has been mentioned 1) alarm fitters vary wildly in quality 2) an immobilised Tdi is particularly easy to bypass, given the correct know-how.
However given that in the UK we're not allowed some of the more, uhhhm, South African1 security measures, we need to take precautions.
The point I'm meandering towards is that my plan is to fit one of these. The installation manual (here, PDF) gives a few clues as to where you could hide the various bits and wire it in to the ignition/fuel stop circuit. There should be plenty of places to hide the actual alarm itself in Brian (or indeed any LR), and you could make the wiring hard to identify by making it look 'standard'. Ok it won't resist professional attack for long, but that, combined with a PIR light/camera combo and some other physical security (pedalbox, steering lock) should be an affordable arsenal. It won't resist Mr P Ikey and a flatbed truck, but nothing much will.
As a bonus, the kit I'm talking about includes remote engine start (which will be wired to the eventual webasto/eberspacher) as well as a central door locking kit. I've checked with Hawk and the unit will power and additional door lock motor for the rear door too...
1 = You know, the ones where the thief is immobilised, not the car....
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I know it is no help, but when I first wired that trailer it all worked perfectly with incandescent bulbs, so unless the trailer wiring has been interfered with, it can be assumed to be OK.
Chris
Not true:
The other issue with LEDs is that they are Light Emitting Diodes. The diode part is important, in that they can only be wired one way or they won’t work…my guess would be that the wiring in your trailer is stop/tail socket is wired backwards. So what would normally be +ve is wired to -ve With bulbs this would make no difference.
In other words, your trailer could be working perfectly with bulbs (as the OP describes) but wouldn't work with LEDs because the socket within the lamp might be connected backwards.
The information I have was given by my supplier was that they LED's are no longer polariy consious.
I can only say what information I've been given.
I've only use LED's since 2004 and I know the first LED's I fitted were polarity consious.
One of the problems with the lights fitted into the 200/ 300Tdi make it difficult for people to fit the wires correctly.
Whilst LEDs themselves are, by definition, polarity concious, LED lamps might not be - they might have two LEDs wired in opposite directions - so they work whichever way they're connected:
Anyway you shouldn't be fitting LED's into any lamps into vehicle lights. They are not legal.
The newer-style NAS Lamps are now 'E' marked, such as these
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Have spoken to someone and they think I need to add a ballast to the 90 wiring. MAy fit LED's to the trailer and see if that solves it.
G
I think you’re getting the two common issues with LED lighting confused.
You need to add ballasts to indicators, in order that they don’t flash too fast. Reason being, flasher relays are required to have a bulb failure indication function. They do this by sensing load (current) drawn by the indicator bulbs. If one is blown, the current will be lower, and the relay will make the remaining bulbs flash faster. LED lights, because of their lower current draw, tend to cause the relay to flash too fast, hence the need to fool the relay by adding ballasts (the other option is to swap the flasher relay for LED-compatible one).
This lower current draw/ballast requirement isn’t usually an issue with any other lights other than indicators.
The other issue with LEDs is that they are Light Emitting Diodes. The diode part is important, in that they can only be wired one way or they won’t work…my guess would be that the wiring in your trailer is stop/tail socket is wired backwards. So what would normally be +ve is wired to -ve With bulbs this would make no difference.
A multimeter with a continuity buzzer should help you diagnose this, and workout where you need to swap the wires over. As mmgemini says, it’s not unknown for Defenders to be wired up ‘backwards’ too.
Edit to add: better explanation of why you need a ballast with LED
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I worked for a self-employed builder a few years ago...he ran a crew of 3 full-time tradesmen - drove to work in a 15 year old transit van, but lived in a million pound plus house in a village outside bath. He had a two-year old rangie parked on the drive, and an orange wife parked on the...anyway
Oz Slang => Queen's English
Chalkie = Teacher
Tradie = Tradesman
Ute = Pick up truck
Bench = (kitchen) Worktop
Seppo (Septic Tank) = Yank
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A member on another forum (I think he is/was a member on here but don't quote me on that) has completely LED NAS'd truck, first with coloured lenses, then with clear lights. Pictures below show them - hope he doesn't mind me linking to his photobucket pics, but then his truck has been a 'covergirl' for LRO, so I suppose he's used to the publicity!
Personally I like the coloured LED NAS lights on the back, not sure about the front, and the clear ones look too blingy for me! But each to their own.
Coloured LED NAS Lights:
View of upfront:
Rear now changed to clear lights:
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Also, the cheap stuff tends to freeze I have found. It doesn't freeze in the bottle under the bonnet, but on a cold morning like we've had the last few days, if I am unfortunate enough to need to use the washers it just freezes as soon as it hits the screen! At which point I end up with a big smeary freezing mess and can see literally nothing!
This is exactly what the cheap stuff from Lidl does - avoid. It was only -7 for crisssakes!
I honestly don't know why we in the UK can't have proper stuff sold to us unlike in Europe (surely pikeys attempting to drink it is just natural selection at work?) Last time I was in Poland, I went into the local Tesco (really - largest supermarket chain over there) and poured own-brand into the car, and it was quite happy at -10 and below. Do that with Tesco's own-brand here and washer jets will freeze. /rant
Has anybody used the 'Four Seasons' stuff from GSF successfully?
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Err arent carling switches rated to 20A?
My bad
Didn't read the
So, for instance this one is carling p/n VLD2UHNB- AAC00- 000. The 3rd character 'D' equates to 20 A @ 12V rating, according to the datasheet (pdf)
I'd still be interested to know how people ran all the cabling for the consoles? Presuambly the main feeds came froma seperate fusbox, out through the battery box, back in via the bulkhead (in the usual LR wasy) and via the switches back out again to lights, compressors etc?
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Thanks guys I'll leave well alone, I'd held off doing a build thread as it would likely turn into war and peace given the amount of work done vs actual driving time ratio over the last 7 years
Fair enough - my own build thread has been languishing dormant for months, almost as much my truck has....damn things like needing to earn a living and house refurb keep getting in the way, not to mention spending quality time with SWMBO...
Back on-topic, looks like the sensible thing is to leave alone regarding seat numbers too...
hinge pins
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
What he said...female thread grease nipple and pin turned/had a die run down it to create suitable male thread.
Stealing the theme from another thread...how about the X-Hinge Si? I'm sure if you build it, they will come?? A good source of hinges (as in not slop-out-of-box-part) with mod'd grease nipples? I'd buy a set!