carlosbeldia
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Posts posted by carlosbeldia
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There is a perfect fittment for the Defender, the unit that comes in the Nissan Urvan made in Mexico. It costs around /USD 150 here in Colombia, fittment being around additional USD 100. That unit is perfect, going just to the edge of the rear door including the furniture..... the A17 compressor present in the TD5 (same element from Toyota HDJ100) can easily handle this additional A/C.
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I have found all my A/C switches are on all the time, no matter if I activate it or not..... what this can be doing to the complete system? I haven't found information about it.....
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Thanks FIlip, I'll block the filter pipe.
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I need to take out my TD5 EGR, but have no money at this moment, so decided to have the electrical plug disconnected, blocked the vaccum pipes junction (using a bolt and rubber tape), and blocked the pipe air passing from the exhaust (using a steel gasket and sealant). How much damage can I do to the engine? Brakes are feeling better, a faster response from the throttle is noticeable. Are they placebo feelings or can they be real effects?
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Ok, thanks a lot for explained me the function of the trinary.... It was recharged just 2 days ago, I think due to all the dirt in the system the technician didn't recharge it to the max pressure (system hasn't be used last 6 years), so maybe that's why it doesn't start when properly connected. I'll check tomorrow during the maintenance routine
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OK, I found the short circuit, is in the trinary switch (black circled wires are intentionally joint). Connector is C0279, in the photo. Fixing the short circuit didn't help, when fixed, compressor unit doesn't run at all..... some idea?
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I have just installed a new compressor in my car (old one was broken) and noticed there is always current in the compressor cable, so if the engine is running, the compressor is alwasy activated. I have just checked relays, cables, fuse, everything, with no results..... any idea?
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I used an additive from Stanadyne, really good stuff, not expensive and very impressive in the results..
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Thanks a lot everybody. My beloved Defender is back in the road. We make almost every tip you give us for cleaning and starting it.... after running for a while, there is a little disbalance in cylinder 5..... I'll let you know when a few more miles are in the odometer.
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I have a new set of fuel lines, will try them later today. We had to use a different filter due to here in Colombia only can get a TD5 filter in Bogota (we already ask for it, must be here today in the afternoon). Starter motor is OK, everything seems OK, fuel pump, fuel regulator, CKP sensor, ECU (Nanocom doesn't report anything), all of them, but engine still not running. We'll try today with a new ECU. Starter motor crancks fine, but engine doesn´t decide to run.... Tried all the priming methods....
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Took all lines out, blowed them with air (6 bar), took out HP line from fuel rail and blowed it with air, everything that was in the rail went out, now only blows air. Fuel pump was removed and thorougly cleaned (it's new), as well as the tank. FIlter was removed, also we blowed the fuel cooler. However still getting water in diesel from the HP line (the one that goes to the fuel regulator)..... we are thinking in doing all the procedure again tomorrow and using some anti corrosion aditive from Stanadyne......
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Today, after 2 months of no using my TD5, I went for starting it.... completely died!!!!! after searching a little bit, found that somebody had stolen my fuel cap, getting a lot of water in my tank.... diesel is coming full of water. Took all the contaminated diesel out but after washing, blowing and cleaning all the system, it still doesn't start and a lot of water come from the system.... can somebody tell me how to take all this out?
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Please for your own good try your car as it is, don't go locker or suspension before you learn how to use it. A friend of mine, an overlander coming from Australia to Colombia have a Puma with ARB in the back, before it he had a TD5 with ARB front and back, all his life he has been surrounded for lockers, suspensions, big tyres, etc...... 4 months ago he came to my city and went for a medium off road track (at least for us here next to the jungle, jejejeje) with my 110, a Toyota Land Cruiser and a Series IIA, all of us with open diffs..... Puma was spectacular, really near from the Series with General SAG, but once a tree took a piece of the locker hose, luck was done..... it took us more than 3 hours to take it out from the mud trial, a place where we use to be out in less than 1 hour, all because Randy was in really bad shape trying to go off road without toys..... everything scared him, he didn't know how slippery a mud hill can be, it doesn't matter how good your BFG are, how much torque you have or how tall the car is. The only thing that really matters is what is between the steering wheel and the seat. Inertia? what the hell is that? how the hell is the car supposed to be controlled when rear wins over the road? I think you must think twice before putting some toys, it's kind of cheating. Haven't you seen Camel Trophy? that was off road, not the actual games, all of them with no lockers or height kits...
I have 2 IIA and one 110. There is nothing to say, Series are far superior in off road when it's really off road, not playing grounds or competence tracks. Without lockers, they can go really far from everybody, maybe you can count a Willys or Unimog can go with you.
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How can I do if my alternator doesn't have a W signal?
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Thanks a lot. We have a new block, so suppose it's the improved version. What about the little plastic valve everybody mention?
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Good day. I know there is a lot of information on this subject, But I couldn't find it. Can somebody tell me if there is any improved head for this engine? a friend of mine have just bought a 2000 with fried engine, only head in aparently good condition. We have a new block, valves, pistons, etc.... but thinking in put a better head. Is Turner Engineering a reliable head? we have heard a lot on this engine being a really crappy one, so we are trying to make it the most reliable we can.
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SAG is the best for the mud, but too loud and really dangerous in the wet........
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Some brand you can recommend? I'm really interested in this conversion for my 110...
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Can somebody tell me the Dayco or any other brand reference for this belt? is the one with aircon, LR part PQS101500
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Can this be done? I have just bought a used engine from an insurance sinister and it's newer than mine, so I'm planning on changing those 2 things. I have a Nanocom....is this an easy job? apart from including new injector codes, new security codes what else have to be done? thanks....
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We are looking for a scanner tool that can read Disco I, II, P38, Classic, TD5, Free 1 and 2. Some ideas?
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No, the arm is bent, it's the mirror from my girl's car.... thanbks a lot for the part number....
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I think those are Happy, do you have the part number? the large arm ones they sell in LRSeries are straight ones.....
Rear A/C assembly for a defender 90/110
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
This is a generic unit installed in Argentina, a friend of mine that made Argentina - USA used it and it really did a good job. It's a shame the unit takes some space from the rear door. Nissan unit really freezes the inside of 110, I've been in level 4 armored 300 TDi with 35ºC in the outside getting really freezed...