MR-HIPPO
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Posts posted by MR-HIPPO
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27 minutes ago, Arjan said:
".. Karen Bee has a retrial company called Bustle About .."
Any links ?
I assume that it's these guys.
https://www.facebook.com/BustleAbout
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I used woolies trim when I sorted my sliding rear side windows.
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Firstly welcome to the forums.
From the description, I was fully expecting your story to end with, "when I drained the diff, a few crown wheel teeth fell out."
Good luck, I hope you have not done too much damage.
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May well be talking out of my arse here but:
Stub axle oil seal fitted back to front?
Perhaps this would allow lubricant to escape from the swivel housing into the hub, but not return, thus creating excess pressure in the hub when things heat up?
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Update.
Being a cheapskate I ordered from VGC thevehicleglasscompany The screen arrived the next day, and the total cost delivered was £126.
The screen was well packaged, and suffered no damage in transit. That said, the courier did not seem greatly impressed when I insisted on opening the package and inspecting the contents before accepting it.
I did not measure the thickness of the glass, but when placed next to my old screen the new one was noticeably thicker.
My old screen measured around 5.4mm thick.
This screen has now been fitted using a new Bearmach rubber (11.50 from ebay). This has been further waterproofed by injecting a butyl sealant into the joint between the rubber and the glass, in an attempt to prolong the life of the heating elements.
The heating elements seem to work as intended, and the whole installation appears to be waterproof.
In conclusion: I am very happy with the screen / service from VGC and would not hesitate to recommend them, I would also happily buy another screen from them if the need arises.
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
shade 9 I use for much of the thinner stuff like chassis and bodywork
9 seems to be the sweet spot on my (cheap) auto helmet as well.
My welding quickly deteriorates if the knob on my mask accidentally gets turned above 9.
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Good pics, that makes things a lot clearer.
The gap looks quite tight, is there going to be enough clearance to insert the block?
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2 hours ago, paime said:
My biggest problem with welding seems to be getting the puddle where i want it. My hand will move perfectly straight with the torch (or so i think) but when i stop and have a look the puddle has wandered all over the place.
Don't you just hate that. Nice weld, wrong place.
I have been sticking stuff together for upwards of 30 years, and that still happens to me.
I find adding lots of light on the workpiece helps (especially when working underneath), you can get some pretty decent LED floodlights from the likes of Screwfix for around a tenner. I have a couple of 10w LEDs that I use here and they help lots.
Great work getting your outriggers done by the way.
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I do not see a crack. (that said, I am as blind as a bat at times.)
Is it the daylight between the two horizontal white panel edges at the bottom of the pic, that you are referring to?
If yes, then (on mine at least) the lip / edge below the daylight is the edge of a separate angle section, it runs from just in front of the B-pillar, and only seems to be there to hold the top edge of the door rubber.
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Nice bit of kit that, and certainly a bargain at £50.
i have an old upright version of that, and it has served me well for quite some time.
9 hours ago, youngengineer said:Does anyone have any idea what the external pipe running from the crank to the 2nd piston is for?
As in the pipe just above the data plate?
That is a pipe to relieve pressure from above the piston.
The compressor is equipped with a starting unloader which relieves cylinder pressure when the compressor stops, permitting it to start
against a light load.
This increases the life of the drive motor and belts and also reduces the possibility of tripping the motor overload relay.The unloader incorporates a pilot valve which is actuated centrifugally by unloader weights attached to the end of the crankshaft
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5 hours ago, ianmayco68 said:
Must be coming up to a full moon, the weirdy strange people are coming out
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I resemble that remark!
Very shiny, have you any pics of them in situ?
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1 hour ago, ianmayco68 said:
I fitted SS braided lines on the 110 , had them on over 2 years now and they’ve been fine no problems braking at all , and I’ve just today took delivery of a full set for the project 90 . I did start to fit cunfer pipes but them thought no fit SS and I shouldn’t need to worry about them in my life time
will put a pic up tomorrow if anyone wants me too ?
Go on then, I like a bit of LandRover porn as much as the next guy.
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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
And, unless automotive, s l o w.
And heavy.
But good.
Slow?
My 4236 turbo conversion would almost do 60MPH (4 speed range rover box + overdrive)
Pulled like a train though, did not really need the gears.
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I have a Leatherman Rebar that I have owned for several years.
It seems solid enough, and is still in excellent condition.
If I had to pick fault with it, my only gripe would be that the handles are "inside out" while using the pliers, so can dig into your hand somewhat when squeezing hard.
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48 minutes ago, hxk494 said:
I recently had one supplied (but fitted locally) from these guys who came recommended. Well packaged, think I went with them as not many of the other suppliers would cover for damage during shipping. No complaints with it. New seal from them too which in my opinion was poorly finished at the join, they supplied a new one, no questions asked.
From the part number on that site (7012AGNH) that would appear to be a Pilkington screen, can you confirm that this is the case?
Looks like the price delivered is £219.58
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Certainly not something you see every day.
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Flaring the ends in situ is a doddle with one of these.
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Having done a little more research:
heatedwindsceen.com Price delivered is a few pence shy of £200. I do not yet know who makes the glass.
Masai & LR Parts are both coming in cheaper than this at around £175 delivered.
thevehicleglasscompany.co.uk Price delivered £126. The screen is produced by Nordglass.
So the obvious question is, are Nordglass screens any good?
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It has bee about 20 years since I replaced one of these, but If my memory serves me correctly:
I think that the feet slip inside the bottom of the door pillar, and are spot welded in place.
You would need to locate and drill out the spot welds in order to pull the old foot down out of the pillar.
Glad to hear you are making progress at last.
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I need to replace my windscreen, and am looking at upgrading to a heated version.
After much searching on here, heatedwindsceen.com seems to come up quite a lot, but I can't seem t find any posts from anyone who has actually bought a screen from them.
I also came across a link that western posted to these guys thevehicleglasscompany.co.uk but there is very limited information in the listing, and at £85 +VAT it seems too good to be true.
If anyone has bought from, and able to give any feedback on the heated Defender screen from either of these suppliers, it would be greatly appreciated.
Alternatively, are there any other suppliers of decently priced (<£150) heated screens out there that anyone has actually had experience of using?
Many thanks, Hippo.
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A few weeks back, an old but unused Exmoor trim seat base foam came my way, so I fitted this into the the base of my 1989 drivers seat, reusing the original cover.
What a difference!!
I was absolutely blown away by the difference that this made. My sitting position seems to have gone up by around 2 inches, the seat back now correctly sits against my back, and the thing is so much more comfortable to drive, it is literally like driving a different vehicle.
If you have an old defender, a new seat base foam is quite possibly the best £30 ish you could spend.
Fully re-trimming my front seats in now most certainly on my radar.
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Have you tried the tests that I outlined above? They will test/eliminate the rest of the wiring outside of the speedo head.
If those tests do not find the problem, then with pink plug (c1061) unplugged from theback of the speedo,, and the tank sender plugged in, connect a wire between pin 3 Green/Black, and pin 7 Light green/Black on pink plug (c1061) this will complete the fuel sender circuit while bypassing the speedo head circuitry as per westerns suggestion above.
Depending on what your fuel gauge now reads (ignition on), this will prove / disprove that the speedo is the problem.
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Thank you.
Reckon I could find space in my tool box for a few of those.
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1 hour ago, Petefender90 said:
received an email this morning from them to say they now have a chassis shop online so looks as though they definitely sell to everyone for marsland sorry dont no how to put it on here but it has the link to the website you have shared on it
pete
Thanks for the heads up.
You can just Copy links and paste them directly into your post.
The forum will do the rest.
(hint, you can then delete the link text, and type what you like in it's place.)
Or, you can use the little paper clip looking link button in the menu bar thingy just above the reply you are posting)
Either way you may well have to hit ENTER after your link to return to typing normal text.
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will put a pic up tomorrow if anyone wants me too ?
Speedo gear
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by MR-HIPPO
Here you go.
Land Rover 90/110 speedo drive gears
Taken from THIS page.
Transfer box ratio does not affect this, as the speedo drive is driven from the output side of the box.