MR-HIPPO
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Posts posted by MR-HIPPO
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If you are pulling power from the Yellow/Pink? then as this comes from the Speedo, I would suspect that that is where you problems arise.
There should be a spare White/Green in the large grey main loom / engine loom plug.
This should be live with the ignition on, it runs from fuse 12 (10A) and would have provided a live feed to the alternator, this wire is not used on 200TDI engines/Alternators.
Alternatively, there appear to be a bunch of switched White/Green green up behind the instruments, these should also work, These are fed from fuse 15 (5A)
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Looks like Yellow/Pink would have gone off to the ECU in a TD5.
EDIT: removed incorrect information.
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Excellent, added to my wish list.
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I would switch it if it were me.
Surely as you are using a TD5 loom, all the connections you need for the transducer, are already present in the main loom to engine loom plug.
Can you not just pick them up from here?
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3 wires to heater.
On the vehicle here they are
Green (on the diagram above this is purple/green?)
Green/Yellow
Green/Slate
Any way the first wire is a fused live supply to the heater (Green or Purple/Green)
The other two wires will read live from the heater end, they earthed back through the slider switch on the dash.
The speed is determined by which wire is earthed through the dash switch.
I believe that the Green/Yellow connects to the heater motor through a resistor inside the heater box, and so when earthed via the dash switch gives the slower speed, whereas Green/ Slate is directly connected to the motor, and so when earthed gives you full speed.
With all the wires appearing live at the heater, I would assume that the problem is almost certainly with the wiring at the switch. (You should have the G/Y G/S and an earth there) Or the switch it's self may be faulty?
Glad to hear you are up and running, I bet the auto electrician will be glad to see the back of you.
EDIT: I have just watched the two videos in you above post, they both look like good bits of kit.
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According to a Google image search, what you have there is PLYWOOD!
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Just checked an old military series 3 cap here, and it looks nothing like that one.
The size may help.
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There is more to this than just the spider.
PM sent.
Do not want to post details in an open forum.
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On 10/8/2013 at 11:55 AM, Snagger said:
............Don't replace the crush tube, just re-use it and tighten the main nut to about 150'lbs; that'll make the nut nice and tight without further squeezing the tube and increasing bearing preload (a new tube starts crushing at about 250'lbs and needs more and more to keep shortening). That goes for whether you use a new flange or not - the thickness of the flange has no influence on the bearings, just the nut torque. I have done this myself with good results.
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This may be worth reading.
Also: check that the breather is not blocked.
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Read this.
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@PaulMc Excellent, Thank you.
Above pic is the first diagram that I have seen that shows the Brake check relay circuit. 👍
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Yes I found myself needing a third hand quite often while trying to use them.
Crude, but an effective way to free up a hand.
Handy for storage & makes it easier to keep track of the little buggers during use as well.
If I were to make it again, (and not just smack holes through a conveniently sized piece of scrap) I would add a couple of bends / lips to act as stand offs / feet.
Happy tinkering, I would be curious to see what you come up with, Hippo.
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May not be a bad idea, if there is a 200TDI wiring diagram out there somewhere I would certainly like to get my hands on a copy.
I hope you get this fully sorted and properly up and running soon.
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LOL.
There is even an instructional video.
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Very handy indeed.
I bought some when I was rebuilding my truck, they were very handy for test fitting lots of body parts cappings, under floor supports etc, and especially useful when fitting the galvanised battery tray & under seat tool box into my old seatbox.
For single handed operation, I drilled an old ally body section with lots of 4.8mm holes to act as a holder for the clecos, this worked well and allowed me to pick them up with the pliers, and insert them while still having a free hand to hold the work pieces in place.
One of those tools that you could go a lifetime without, yet once you use them you wish you had discovered them years ago.
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^ I did say best guess. 😉
Strange how there seems to be a big hole in the information that we have available for the 90-110 / defender vehicles, when it comes to the electrical side of 200TDIs.
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After much searching: (with proper internet speeds)
I am unable to find a picture to confirm, but I think the correct label for the 200TDI fuse cover is PRC9902Chassis VINs from HA705857 to LA939975 (1991 to 1994 MY)
Your new loom is AMR2348. (As per your first post)
Defender 90/110 Main Harness. 200Tdi : AMR2348
Chassis NO: 922209 - 962814 (1996 Model Year)
The 200TDI I have here is a 1994 with chassis number 931*** (so well within the range listed by AutoSparks for your new loom, so I guess fuse cover should be the same as the one I have here?)
PRC9902 is my best guess with the information that I have been able to find so far. None of the online retailers show a picture of the part, and Google Images also comes up short.
I did find an old thread on this forum that also points to this part number, but due to the age of the posts the picture links no longer work.
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Beat me to it.
That matches the fuse cover that I have on the 1994 200TDI 110 3 door commercial that I have here.
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It looks like AutoSparks have screwed up.
I am unable to find a wiring diagram for a 200TDI, so I have taken this from the 300TDI diagrams. (the earlier 90 - 110 pre TDI models just had the resistor, with no diode)
The picture below shows how the charge light circuit with the diode should be wired. (This would appear to be in keeping with my test results from the 200TDI here last night)
With the ignition switch in position"II" a feed is supplied to the ignition/no charge warning lamp (pin 4 on the 10 way plug) on a white wire.
The warning lamp (from pin 5 on the 10 way plug) is earthed via the diode (C118-1) on a yellow/brown wire* and through the alternator field windings (C185-1) on a brown/yellow wire.The flow of current through the warning lamps and field windings partially magnetises the rotor.
A resistor (C037-1& C038-1) is wired in parallel with the warning lamps to ensure continued exciter voltage in the event of bulb failure.
*The Yellow/Brown wire in the diagram is Brown/Yellow on the 200TDI loom.
This should give you enough info to rebuild the circuit.
As for the oil light: Earthing the oil light wire at the engine end. (ignition on)
If the the oil lamp on the dash illuminates. then the problem is with the sender on the engine.
If the oil lamp does not illuminate, then I would check the bulb, and connections at the bulb holder. (perhaps even the copper contacts that the 10 pin plug slides onto?)
Hope this helps, Hippo.
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6 hours ago, roamingyak said:
A. My only issue there so far is having a Brown/Yellow wire that is in the small alternator loom, plugs into the main loom, but then doesn't seem to connect through to the Brown/Yellow wire on the dash lights connector - when the auto electrician tests each end they are not connected. Faulty wire/connection or does it pass through something that we don’t have a relay in etc etc? Any suggestions appreciated!
Just had a fiddle with the 200TDI here.
It does matter it seems, how you measure the continuity for the Brown/Yellow wire.
Pretty sure that there is a diode in the brown/yellow, hidden somewhere between the dash warning light plug and the Bulkhead to Engine loom plug.
The continuity tester on my meter did not beep when testing in either direction. BUT with red+ connected to the Brown/Yellow at the dash plug, and the black- on my tester connected to the bulkhead to engine loom plug, it did register a resistance.
I repeated the same tests with a test light:
NOTE - For the live in this test I used+12v from one of the white wires that are live with the ignition on, (I used pin 4 on the left hand warning light panel plug, this was convenient, because the Brown/Yellow goes to pin 5, and you need to make sure that you have power to pin 4 anyway), the plug is unplugged for the test. The warning light panel, and bulkhead to engine loom plugs were unplugged for these tests.
If I connect the live to.the Brown/Yellow at the the warning light panel plug, and connect a test lamp between the bulkhead plug and earth, the test lamp will illuminate
However
If I connect the live to Brown/Yellow at the bulkhead plug, and connect a test lamp between the Brown/Yellow at the warning light panel plug and earth, the lamp will NOT illuminate.
If you have +12v at pin 4 of the left hand warning light panel plug (white 10 pin plug with an 8-2 split) when the ignition is on, then, with the plug plugged into the dash, if you earth the brown/yellow at the bulkhead to engine loom plug (unplugged), the red battery light on the warning light panel should illuminate.
Hope this helps & good luck ,Hippo.
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@Mo Murphy Had a similar problem, it is discussed here.
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Hello and welcome to the forums.
Is this a new chassis loom from Auto Sparks?
The Auto sparks chassis looms seem to have the wires for both the petrol and diesel models.
When fitting to a diesel engined vehicle, you may well be left with a spare White/Purple(ish) where the loom joins the main harness at the bulkhead.
This is normal, and you can leave it unconnected.
On a V8 engined vehicle, this White/Purple would provide power to the electric fuel pump.
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Just had a poke around with the 200TDI here.
The two large (10 pin) white plugs that connect to the back of the warning light panel both have one plain white wire.
These white wires should be live with the ignition on.
The left plug has the white on pin 4 (this has an 8-2 split)
The right plug has the white on pin 8 (this plug has a 3-7 split)
If you look at the front of the plugs (the side that plugs into the warning light panel) the terminals are numbered (on the raised portion just below the wires)
Bulkhead woes
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
If you are going to replace it anyway, you have an whole outrigger to practice on. 😉