MR-HIPPO

So we are looking at the chassis loom. As far as I can determine from the electrical reference library, I believe that the orange plug is C0390, and the other two plugs are C0391 & C0392, see picture below. Green / Black, and Slate / Black to the top of the tank (as per your reply), these go to the sender for the fuel gauge. The two fat ones, Purple permanent live ACC, and White / Purple power to fuel pump. The Library I am looking at is for a 2002 model year, it looks like C3092 has changed colour.

Just been looking at a TD5 electrical library, Is that the chassis loom? The small wires, are they Green / Black, & Slate / Black? Is there a 9 pin plug on the end of the loom next to those cut wires?

My early defender manual is showing the following. The first column is NM, the second is lb ft

Thank you for the replies. I really should spend more time here. I have not changed the switch, I fitted the pressure gauge, and assumed that the rapid drop to around 10 PSI was proof that I had a low pressure problem. Will do an Oil and Filter change, the current filter is a genuine LR part, and the oil is 10w 40 semisynthetic.

Thanks Western. As per my first post in this topic, I have seen my oil light flicker at idle a few times after decent runs in hot weather, although I have yet to witness this since installing the Pressure gauge. It kind of sucks getting stuck in traffic after a decent run, then having to keep the revs up to quell the oil light until the traffic clears. With the current weather, it only takes a four or five miles for the Oil pressure to drop to around the 10 / 12 psi mark at idle.

!0 psi is hot idle. Cold is more like 40. Engine was purchased back in 2018. It was allegedly from a 88k ish vehicle. There was a green new owner slip with the engine, that was allegedly from the vehicle that the engine came from, the DVLA MOT history confirmed the mileage It is certainly one of the earlier 11Ls & and the FIP has been messed about with prior to my ownership. I have no reason to think that the engine has previously been rebuilt. But I have had to replace the head gasket, so I expect that this engine has more miles and has had a much harder life than I was led to believe. Was quite gutted to read that you need to separate the gearbox to remove the ladder frame on these, so popping a couple of bearing caps off and having a look inside is not a quick job.

OK, update on this. Mostly to answer my original question. For ERR532, I used RTC6167 (Thanks Retroanaconda for the heads-up). I measured the new O ring RTC6167 as best I could with my Lidl digital Vernier. My best estimate for the physical size of the O ring is 25.3 mm OD with a thickness of 3 mm. I was fitting this to rule it out as the source of low oil pressure, I fitted a capillary gauge last week, and it confirmed that with the engine up to temperature I have around 10 PSI at tickover. The old O ring inside the skew gear, sealing it to the vacuum pump was indeed very brittle and flat, however replacing it has made no difference to my oil pressure reading. Sadly, when removing the Vacuum pump, it popped out with the skew gear firmly attached, so I lost all reference as to how the skew gear & camshaft gear were originally meshed. There are lots of warnings about the skew gear / camshaft drive being a matched set once they have been used together, and apparently it is important to ensure that they mesh together in the same place. I really hope that this does not come back to bite me on the arse at a later date. So there it is, My 11L 200TDI engine is now suffering from a case of low oil pressure. Compounded with a dose of Skew gear / camshaft gear mesh misalignment. Not quite sure where to go from here.

I made mine. I ordered THIS inline brake pipe connector from eBay. The remote bleed is simply a length of brake line with a male fitting at each end, this runs from the bleed port on the clutch slave, turns back on itself 180 degrees, and runs upwards along the back of the bell housing / gearbox towards the gear stick. The top (gearstick end) of the remote pipe screws into the female fitting. The bleed nipple screws into the other side of the female fitting. The long hollow female fitting also has a small plate welded to it in the middle at 90 degrees, this has an 8 mm hole drilled in the other end and is attached to one of the bolts on top of the remote housing

Mine was a complete dick to bleed after fitting the later type pedal, I ended up pumping the pedal up and down by hand to get pressure, then while holding pressure on the pedal, opening the bleed valve to purge the air. It took several cycles to get any kind of return from the pedal The bleed valve on mine is on an extension pipe, and sits attached to a bracket on top of the gear selector housing, pointing upwards. Bleeding can be done manually from the driver's seat. The nipple is accessed by simply removing the rubber gear stick gaiter in the cab. That first bleed with the new pedal set up seemed a lot harder than it should have been, for sure.

!/4 chassis is probably a little bit of an exaggeration, the new section was the rear cross member and chassis rails up to the front of the fuel tank cross member, it finished just shy of the rear spring seats. I am not sure who made the new section, but it was constructed of 3 mm steel, had been galvanised and all threaded holes had been tapped ready to use. The old section was cut off, leaving around 40 mm protruding beyond the front of the fuel tank cross member. The new section needed to be trimmed a little on the nearside, as there was a suspension linkage attached where the two sections should overlap. There was also a bracket to hold the fuel filter situated right on the join on the offside rail, this had to be removed, and re welded after the new section had been fitted. If I remember correctly, the new section was test fitted six times before I was happy with it, and then welded on the seventh fit. I drilled lots of holes into all the sections of new chassis that overlapped the old, and these were plug welded for good measure. This was for a friend, and I expected the job to be done over 3 days, however I ended up crawling around on the floor under this for the best part of a week! (you know what they say, "a friend in need is a pain in the arse" and all that)

Thank you for the replies. I feel like I learn something every time I come here. So for ERR532 use RTC 6167 (That should be on the LRW website) And it looks like Britcars dimensions should probably be taken with a pinch of salt as they show 25x1.4mm for ERR532 and 70x1.5mm for RTC6167.

Obscure question I know, but would anyone here happen to know the physical dimensions of the O Ring that seals the Vacuum pump to the oil pump Skew gear. (200 TDI) Part number ERR532. This is the same part that is referenced in this post. Reason for asking. I have seen my oil light flicker at idle a few times after decent runs in warm weather and would like to rule this O ring out before I investigate further. ERR532 is showing as discontinued on several sites, and I was hoping I could just purchase the correct sized O ring to replace mine. I also plan on fitting an oil pressure gauge early next week to see what is actually going on. Has anyone here ever found this part to actually be the cause of low hot oil pressure? Thanks as always, Hippo.

Update. Having replaced the chassis section in question, I can partially answer my original question, the rare body mounting rubbers are NOT the same as the Disco 1 part ANR1504 is a completely different shape to the Disco 2 part. The Disco 2 rubbers are a single conical design that need pressing through the mounting holes in the chassis. I was able to re-use the original rubbers.

I will be replacing a rear quarter chassis on a friends Disco 2 shortly; I Would like to fit new rear body mounting rubbers at the same time, these are the rear most mounts that sit outboard of the main chassis rails just forward of the rear Cross member. Are these the same as the disco 1 part ANR1504 or is this a different part. Many thanks, Hippo.

I also have this leak, and stumbled across a couple of very good Youtube videos a while back showing the fix explained in this thread. Given that all the pics in this thread are no longer here, I though the videos may well be of use to any who is contemplating this fix. This video, although not exclusively about the intermediate shaft oil leak, does show the various parts, and briefly describes the process. (this should start playing about half way through at the relevant part) The second half of this video (again not exclusivity about this fix) shows the O-ring replacement in more detail. (this should also play from the relevant place) Another short follow up video showing the guide studs in use to replace the intermediate shaft O-ring.