Challo
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Posts posted by Challo
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Hi there, having an issue with my 1996 110.
Got home on Thursday evening and the "Planning Committee" asked me to move my car so she could get out the drive.
Move a foot forward or so and there was a bang.
Reversed back and there was lots of slop in the drivetrain that wasn't there before.
10 minutes later started it up and the starter motor would not disengage.
Also starter tries to spin in ignition on position.
Tried again, same.
So I'm thinking started solenoid.
Thought I would open bonnet n have a looksee.
But it's jammed shut and won't release.
It's chucking it down, been up 17 hours, done 14 hour shift day before n gotta be up in 7 n half hours so borrows Dads car.
By this time I was losing the will to live.
So this aft I change starter motor with a spare i had and an isolator switch that was badly worn.
Noticed flywheel had some burrs on edge of teeth where starter engages.
Started up and it's exactly the same.
Still tries to start in ignition on position.
The 110 has an immobiliser where in the on position you have to place a fob near the ignition for the lights to come on.
Now you put it in on position and starter cranks slowly, without any input from the fob.
So now I am thinking its the ignition switch.
Does this sound correct?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Chris
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Have you checked the dowels on the gearbox and flywheel cover?
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You should be fine at Forresters, run by nice folk who have a sense of humour.
Foods good, Tetleys amazing.
Nice selection of about 5 pubs within 150 yards of doorstep.
Don't know what rooms are like tho.
I will try and get over on Sunday for the day.
Just depends if I can get all brake pipes done on the Saturday as that's only chance I have to do em before MOT.
Cheers Chris
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Wow.
So which tank is included?
Green or orange?
Push button start, do you think any scotchlocks will have been used in the insulation?
Pills like a train eh? Do some folk not check their listing before posting?
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Ha
See your point for defo.
When I got it the previous owner had fitted the back out in 12mm ply and a hand made drawer between the wheel boxes, floor to roof cupboards on top of wheel boxes. Plus a few other bits n bobs.
I was getting 19 to 20mpg so decided to weigh it at work. 2900kgs!!!
Took all that out plus water tank roof rack and spare wheel carrier n it came down to 2200kg.
Mpg shot up to about 25.
But it was a lot noisier so I plumped for a compromise.
Still have enough issues to remind me it's a Land Rover!
Love it though!
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I have recentlly insulated and retrimmed the roof and rear of my 110 hardtop. Still got to do the front though.
After stripping it out and cleaning I applied flashing tape to roof, sides, wheel boxes and floors. Followed by 25mm Kingspan on roof and side panels. All areas not covered I used Wickes bitumen waterproofing stuff, cause I had some already n thought it'd cut down condensation.
Insulated it all then used 3mm ply for sides n wheel boxes covered in Veltrim vehicle carpet.
2mm mdf for the roof covered in a faux leather from Dunelm Mills and used 3mm chequer plate rubber matting for floor n 2mm chequer plate rubber matting for seatbox and footwells.
Got the ply from local timber merchants.
Kingspan from builders yard.
Veltrim, chequer plate rubber matting, Mdf sheets n adhesive spray came from Harrison Trim Supplies .co.uk. On eBay too as "toeragstruckmats".
Pretty impressed so far, it's definitely warmer, cured the condensation but I am
hoping the bulk of the noise will decrease when I finish cab area n seatbox.
Hope this helps.
Chris
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"Even Nene Overland would think twice about selling that!"
Well said, and that's saying Summat!
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That's brilliant chaps.
Much appreciated, i get it now.
And very promt replies too.
Thanks again.
Chris
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I bid you good day folks.
Last week I had an issue, where the coolant temperature gauge stopped working.
So, Saturday morning I decided to investigate and also change the engine oil at the same opportunity.
I started the engine to warm the oil before commencing draining.
Opened the bonnet and behold!!
A wire bunch of cables started fizzing and then set on fire.
Oh bugger thought I.
Upon further investigation it appears that the coolant temperature sender cable had been caressing the block beneath the cyclone breather.
In doing so it removed its outer garments and caused the short which led to the inferno.
That also fried the battery light wire and the alternator to starter cable.
I replaced all the cables but this leads to the reason for my post.
After removing the cover on the alternator, in order to replace the cables, I actually gave some thought to what each wire does.
I worked out that I have the main alternator to starter cable.
A tachometer cable, battery charge light cable and a very thin orange wire that runs to my split charge relay.
So I had a ponder but I still can't figure out how or where the alternator charges the battery or batteries.
I have always presumed there was a cable running from the alternator to the battery.
I would appreciate it very much if a grown up would enlighten me.
Cheers
Chris.
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Could try Boars Head and the Maypole (about 200yards apart) but they are a bit further away at Long Preston near Settle. Give Ilkley a miss as you'll be looking at a lot more £££
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Try the Woolly Sheep in Skipton town centre. It's a Timothy Taylor's pub so plenty of decent beer to choose from, lots of rooms friendly staff and secure car park. Or you could try Devonshire or Forresters in Grassington.
Hope this helps.
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apmotorstore.co.uk/contact-us/
Try contacting them on there.
I have used them for exhaust wrap and silicone pipes also got some alloy pipes from them.
They can chop em to the length you want then put a bead on to prevent the pipes blowing off!
Hope this helps
Luckily for me they are on my way home from work
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I currently have harnesses in my Defender but intend to install seat belts soon. Fridge Freezer summed it up perfectly. Hope this helps
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"Don't be too quick to assume you know better than every car manufacturer in the world "
Bit harsh that ain't it? Elastic in ones undergarments slightly convoluted today?
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I have seen jaguar heads start to melt at 650 c but that was during the first stage of heat treatment when a thermocouple failed on the furnace. Those heads were also cast from LM25 TF.
Pouring of the alloy into the die was done at 750 to 800
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The cylinder heads on 200 & 300 tdi and the V8 head and block were all cast using LM25 TFT alloy.
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Or try these for less£££.
They also do intercooler pipes any length you want then put a bead on the ends.
http://www.apmotorstore.co.uk/
Hope this helps
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Yeah no details of the "Full Expedition" spec.
Also no mileage entered and year given as null.
Doesn't inspire confidence does it?
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Item 270968140808
Beware, I went to have a look at a 90 a couple of years ago that this guy had sold to a naieve punter.
It'd had a 4 inch lift but ran on standard radius and trailing arms plus the bushes had seen better days.
Steering was dangerous and more akin to using a rudder.
Hence it drove like jelly.
It braked like one too as discs and pads were very badly worn.
It had holes in footwell that the guy had used his imagination to hide. Newspaper glued on footwells that painted black!!!
2 outriggers needed replacing immediately in my opinion and the rear crossmember had filler in it.
The guy who bought it had seen the bling, chunky tyres, tree sliders, big lift,
Lots of lights and the only bit that impressed me was the interior of the rear tub had been coated in speedliner. Only problem was it was in a migraine inducing shade of orange.
Basically the guy who bought it had paid about £4500 for it and after a couple of weeks realised he'd bought a turkey.
He contacted the seller who told him there was nothing wrong with it and all defenders were like it.
I felt really sorry for the guy as he'd ploughed all his savings into it but realised he'd made a mistake and tried reselling it for £3000.
In my opinion it wasn't worth that but I did ring the original seller and he gave me the same waffle about all defenders being like that. When I mentioned the footwells he put the phone down.
I advised this buyer to contact trading standards but he never got back in touch.
Just thought I'd warn you folks on here.
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Partially remove screw, ptfe round threads, spire clip on t'inside and tighten.
Mines been like that since December and only very very slight seepage.
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Thanks for that Steve I will check on that tomorrow.
Cheers
Chris
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I have a 300tdi Defender, I have run out of fuel a couple of times but never seem any light come on.
Where is the elusive light located, on the gauge?
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Wow it's like 'play your cards right' with Bruce Forsyth!
Top, middle or bottom?
Lovin it.
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Thanks for the advice chaps, much appreciated.
Think i'll be doing this in new year.
Currently got Britpart +2 heavy duty all round which was on when i got it.
Very bouncy indeed unladen.
300tdi Starter Motor not disengaging
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Any ideas anyone?