Frax
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Posts posted by Frax
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Sorry Jason it sure is not camping mat - that stuff looks really good quality. I did the same job last year and used stuff called fatmat which was and still is good but a bit costly - will have to have a good read of your truck page. My roof is covered in foil covered camping mat and from the foil side looks the same but not near as good, to compensate I covered the roof with car carpet, all glued on and is holding up well so far.
Frax
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Like the idea of being able to direct where your hot air is going and your use of camping mats. I hope that I wont need to use my one on the move but you never know - just want it to heat up and defrost in the winter months. I only got a room style stat with a on/off switch on my one and did think about buying a timer but have decided to go for a remote instead. bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-remote-control-switch-2-keyfobs-6A-max-POPULAR-/190745867912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c6956f688 which was only £17 and switches on a 12v+ supply. the plan is to use this to switch a relay and wire it across the stat on off switch - if I have worked this out right I should be able to turn it on by remote or from the stat on/off switch.
Keep the updates coming Jason
As you can tell I am still at home flight delays - 6am check in for me in the morning.
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I did the same as Orgasmic farmer, used heavy earth wire with a loop on the end in an effort to get it to up and down the curves, used string at the end to fish it out. I then the loom inside a rubber tube and pulled it all through with the earth wire. It is not easy but doable.
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Looked at that but its to high up and if air is going to get into the system that is where it will land up especial when the Defender is not running.
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Well I started fitting my Eberspacher today - decided to fit it in the back of my 90, I know some people fit them under the cubby box and behind the seats but I only carry useful **** in the back of mine and the occasional dog so wont miss the small room it uses up.
It is hard up against the rear bulkhead and as the bulkhead slopes at the bottom I am only loosing about 1" so no big deal.
First checked underneath to make sure I had no obstructions to my exhaust and fuel supply lines, it puts it right in the middle of fuel and power supply so no large runs.
Removed my mat from the back and marked the position of the holes using the gasket from the unit.
Drilled the holes the size required and fitted the unit.
Connected up the exhaust and the inlet.
Secured all the electrics to the bulkhead and made a cover from part of my sons old singe bed headrest to keep things bashing against the unit.
Thats about for now and next update might take a while as I am due to go to work in the morning (offshore) but will update as I go.
Frax
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Did you get your heater fitted yet and can you tell me where you put it, I am just about to do the same job - ever thing here now and tested just need a tee for fuel line and a place to put the heater might go in the back up against bulkhead but open to suggestions. I have a 300tdi 90.
Any help would be great.
Frax
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Found this which is a bit better than my effort
http://letonkinoisva...her_Fuel_2.html
I know I have strayed a bit away from Defender and more to pump repair - Sorry
Frax
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Well decided to strip my fuel pump and see if I could get the thing to work. I had some success and it now pumps.
These pumps are solenoid valves which means they require a pulse voltage to get them to work.
You can test these with a flasher relay or just keep touching the live feed to the terminal with the earth connected, each time you touch the terminal the pump will click which is one stroke of the piston.
These pumps are not meant to be stripped as the pump cover is crimped over the pump end, I used a little screw driver and tapped the crimp back, I then pulled out the pump base (it is tight but does come) when that is removed you get to the piston which has a light spring on it.
The piston should move freely and return on the spring.
At the other end you have the outlet which can be removed with an 8mm spanner – in there is another spring and a ball which is the none return valve (don’t loose these).
Then you have the 10mm nut which is the housing for the none return valve, this part also adjusts the piston stroke which you use to calibrate the pump flow, if you don’t have to remove this don’t, I have and now I need to find out how to set the calibration of the pump again --- any help with this would be appreciated.
As said I now have a pump the pumps but needs calibrated and the heater has been tested and is working but only runs for app 1 min – not sure why, it gets slightly hot but just cuts out, could be the pump flow not sure.
Sorry I forgot to say the pump goes back together in reverse order – make sure the base if fully seated and use a very small hammer to re-crimp to body.
I have attached my best effort at a pump break down picture.
Hope the info will help someone.
D1LC Fuel pump operation and bits
1 = Inlet
2 = Pump base
3 = pump body
4 = Terminals
5 = Piston stop / None return valve holder.
6 = Inlet / None return valve holder
7 = Spring
8 = None return ball
9 = nothing
10 = Spring
11 = Piston
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Thank for the pics, see what ye mean about no low level heat. Strange place for a heater..
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My one turned up today, the f-in fuel pump does not work so have just ordered another one. Hope the unit works when I get the pump.
Does your fuel pump cope with the unit being so high up ?
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Thanks Reb, might look at mounting it in the back and make a tin box to cover it, Gromits thread is good though and might do one when my one turns up.
Will bench check it all first just to be sure it all works. My heater is good but just takes about 3 mile to heat up.
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O now I know, I fitted wide terrafirma to mine, the rubber ones will cut but wont be nice to look at, dont think they would bend, if you have plastic they will bend but would be hard to get them uniform.
Frax
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Had a look for gromits thread but had no luck, even went to his profile and looked at posts but none show up which is strange.
Jason that box looks like it was made for gromit or at least his mate Wallace who liked his cheese - why all the holes.
Frax
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Might look at mounting it behind the drivers seat if it does not restrict seat movement, I suppose I will get a better idea when it arrives. Will also look at under cubby box - my box sits 1" from the base but dont think that will give me enough space even with the base plate modified.
Frax
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I would cut but make sure you dont leave a sharp edge, a 1mm cutting disk on a 4" angle grinder does the job nicely.
Heating and bending will kill the galvi if its coated.
Frax
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Hi all - I have just bought a eberspacher air heater and wondered if anyone has fitted one to a 300tdi.
I would like to fit it in the engine bay if this is possible and route the heat to the passengers side foot well.
It would be great to see pictures of them installed if anyone has one.
Any advice appreciated.
Frax
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Hi I have a 300tdi and used the switch and hose fitting from http://www.x-eng.co..../X-Fan 25mm.asp
Works a treat and easy done.
The hardest part was fitting the fan as there is not much room in there.
Frax
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Will have a look at that.
Thanks
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Advice needed, My back prop has a lot of play in the spline and could be done with being replaced, I have a 2" lift and run 35" tires.
I know that there a lot of different type prop's out there and a large price range - I am not planing to pay silly money for one but would like to know what would be best suited for my type of modifications.
I use the Defender for mainly road driving but do a lot of driving on farm roads which can be rough with lots of pot holes.
Any advice on type and suppliers would be great.
Regards
Frax
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My 300tdi white smokes for about the first mile of running and then its fine, does look bad on start up, head gasket was done along with timing.
Runs fine - I thought they all did that, pump tweak probably does not help.
Have you just got yours or has it just started doing this ?
Frax
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The Raptor dash is a really nice bit of kit and is well made, if you are planning to add lots of switches and gauges I can recommend them. But from there web page though as you can pick the panels you want. (I have no connection to them but I am a very happy owner of one )
Speakers can be mounted anywhere as said, my ones are in the headlining.
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Hope these will help.
Used them when I did mine - nice man on here helped with these.
Regards
Frax
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I did think of painting it all Grey but thought it would be a bit bland so decided to put the black splodges back on.
The tires are General Grabber AT2's 35"x12.5x15.
I did have BF mud's on 35" but removed them due to the continual burring road noise, Love BF's but got a bargain on the Generals.
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Well the only good thing is its like Xmas when you get home lots of boxes with things you want, only big downside is you have paid for them.
Sankey finished - chassis cleaned and painted and tub is back on so thought I would take some time and load some pictures.
Eberspacher D1LC into a 1995 Defender 90
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
All my bits turned up so thought I would start with the remote module, the module switches 12v & I required it to open and close a volt free contact.
This was easy to do with a relay. Removed the cover on the eber room stat and got the printed circuit board out, soldered two wires onto the two point for the on/off switch and run the wires to the volt free contacts on the relay. rebuilt and tested and all worked so now I can turn the eber on from the stat on/off switch or the remote.
Run my power cables with 4mm2 wire and an inline fuse. Not a hard job as the battery box is close to the unit. Eber fuel pump mounted but not wired up yet. Remote unit mounted on rear bulkhead behind drivers seat.
Hope to pipe up tonight and test ------ will see how I get on.
Frax