Jump to content

Frax

Settled In
  • Posts

    959
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Frax

  1. Hi

    Westerns brackets are the ones I used, you may just be able to see it on the Landcruiser.

    As said I fixed a bracket to the bottom two bolt holes on the drop plate and tied it the chassis about 3 feet back so that the strain was directed to the chassis and stopped it twisting on the mounting points.

    Sorry can’t get a better picture as I sold the Cruiser and it now lives in Africa.

    16062010025.jpg

    Frax ;)

  2. This is a great link by gruntus and I used it a lot in my conversion. :)

    http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38064

    Most of the point I found to be correct for the 300tdi and required but

    Point 1= not required for 300tdi.

    Point 4 = not required as fuel filter is fitted to the wing.

    Point 5 = threaded holes available.

    Point 6 = two holes already there.

    Point 9 = Not required as it is a straight swap.

    Point 11 = not required as same as 300tdi.

    Some stuff that is required for a TD5 300TDI conversion.

    Relay bracket from behind the dash = simple drill out the two rivets and mark up and drill & rivet to TD5.

    IMAG0074.jpg

    Starter motor fuse box = I had to cut this free from the 300tdi (welded along the top and bottom) cleaned up & marked position on TD5 and drilled two holes in bracket and through into foot well & riveted in place.

    IMAG0044.jpg

    Three tabs on drivers foot well for holding connectors on 300tdi are not on TD5 but I never moved these.

    IMAG0071.jpg

    The bulkhead earth wire bolt on the left under brake pipe was not there so M6 Rivetnut was fitted, Bolt for holing relay on right was also not there so again another M6 rivetnut was fitted.

    IMAG0072.jpg

    Hope this is of some help.

    Regards

    Frax ;)

  3. I had the same problem with a Landcrusier I had with a 4” lift and 35” tyres.

    Fitted another drop plate which you can get from any caravan place.

    I then fabricated up a bar that tied the drop plate to a point about 3 -4 feet back on the rear chassis.

    Frax ;)

  4. I blasted my callipers with the old seal in to keep the grit out then painted them.

    Stripped them down and fitted stainless steel pistons and seals.

    I also had a pig of a job with the retaining rings but found out later that it helps to fit them upsides down before fitting the pistons as this helps them get into shape. :blink:

    Fitting disks is also a bit of a pig so if you don’t need them don’t bother.

    As for pads I always change them on both sides at the same time so you know when they ware that both side will need done, I do keep the old pads if they are in good nick just in case you get a piston sticking and uneven ware.

    You can always use an old pad to get you by. :unsure:

    Frax ;)

  5. Would any of you knowledgeable people out there know where I can get the mating part for the two plugs below? Part No’s would be great. :unsure:

    Bought a rear loom for my 300tdi 90 about 6 months ago and have just transferred the front loom from my old bulkhead to new and found that the loom has been cut at some point and fitted with bullet connectors.

    These are the plugs that send the feed to the rear and are down on the side of the bulkhead near the gear box tunnel.

    There are two of them as shown with 6 pins in each and both look the same.

    Daft me though that it was only the back loom that had been butchered. :(

    To make thing worse the rear loom was advertised as a 300tdi 90 – well I think his 90 must have been on steroids as it has grown by about 4 feet. :huh:

    I am not going to cut it just make a coil and tuck it out of harm way.

    Frax ;)

    IMAG0067.jpg

  6. Hi I have just stripped the dash out of my 1995 300tdi and found a blue plug which is unused.

    It is slim with what looks like two strip connectors in it.

    Has anyone any idea what it is for? :unsure:

    I know it is unused but are there any upgrades that would be easy to do with the aid of this plug.

    Regards

    Frax

    <_<

  7. At the bottom of the power steering unit there is an arm described as the tie bar (item 9 if this works).

    Should there be a bush on this part ?

    Powersteering.jpg

    Part 9 goes through the hole in part 19 at that point but the hole at 19 is about three times the shaft size.

    Armmounting.jpg

    Am I missing something ????

    Frax :huh:

  8. Thank you for all the replies; I think I will have a look for some rubber tape. Dont think Tiger Seal would be a good idea thinking about it. Knowing my luck if I stick it down I will need it out & if I dont stick it down I will never need it out.

    Frax ;)

  9. Do any of you have an alternative to the seals that Land Rover use to seal the seat box to rear bulkhead also the floor plates and seat box to floor.

    Would silicon or Tiger seal do the same job or is there a rubber strip that you can buy that is sticky on one side just in case they need to be removed at some point.

    Regards

    Frax ;)

  10. I got some 1” box about 18” long and cut it along the length and landed up with 1” at one end and 0 at the other – if you understand what I mean. It now looks like two tapered U sections. Bolted the seat runners to these and then onto the original mounts.

    This lets the seat slide back over the 1” rise on the back bulkhead.

    Frax ;)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy