Frax

I take it that you are getting some movement ? The seal is a rubbery foam thing so it will flex - it may need a good wiggle to get it to break away. Frax

It will be tight as there is a seal stuck in there Frax

Hi I run BF's 33" 12.5 x 15 on standard suspension and dont rub the arches, I did need to adjust the stops though and the side of the Defender is covered in dirt. I have 35" sitting ready to go on but they will need a lift. A lot will depend on the wheel offset. Lazy springs wont help eather. Regards Frax

I think they do I am sure there is one screw that you can not get to. Regards Frax

Hi if I was you I would take the air intake off from under the wing, It is easy to do and access will be a lot better also you will be able to clean out the drain hole. There are nuts in the footwell to be removed, clamp your heater hoses and it will save drainingyou system. It may be blocked and water is building up inside yer heater and causing that rust as that are should be dry. You will also be able to check your heater controls and set up. While you have the heater out give it a good flush through and you might even land up with a toasty Land Rover, Excellent tutorial in Tech archive by Ralf. Regards Frax

Sure is - it will never rust hope my Defender will stay as fresh.............. Regards Frax

Put some duck tape over the chassis drain holes or it will run out is srayed hot. I did not do this and did my on in the garage - what a mess on the floor. Frax

Hi and thank you. Ralph I have only one ring connector on a black wire and it is a new chassis loom. I would have checked this against my own loom and may well try to do this but my problem is the person or previous owners decided to cut up the loom and botch it up. Under the driver’s seat the loom was cut through and all wires to the back end have been run in various bits of cable, the front is not that much better. When I got it the fuel gauge did not work, stupid me thought it would just be a corroded connection or loose wire but no, there were no wires going to the sender unit. They had also removed the connector plugs on the bulkhead (what a job that turned out to be) I did eventually find the taped up wires and got it working, next no reversing light and no diff lock. This is why I thought I had better get a new loom for the rebuild. Regards Frax

I have spent hours today trying to feed a wire through my galvanised chassis so I could pull the new wiring loom through. What an effin job that was , but in the end I got there. Next I decided to cover the new wiring loom in a rubber sheath so split some large fuel pipe down its length and covered the loom part that sits inside the chassis (just in case some galvanising cuts through my new loom. Well that all done it was time to try and pull the new loom through ------------------- Now my problem which end is which. Both end have the same amount of wires obviously but one end has a black wire with ring connector on it (presumably the chassis loom earth) the easy way to explain this is one end has a white connector all other connectors are black. I have had a look through RAVE Cd but the electrics are for a 1997 which is to new. My one is a 90 1995 pre ECU. Could anyone tell my which end is which or point me in the direction of a wiring diagram for my model . Thank you in advance for all yer help Regards Frax

I went to B&Q got just enough ply and a sheet of Kingspan insulation. Stuck the insulation to the bare panel and then covered the ply with old carpet. Warmer and looks good – well I think so... Frax