Souster
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Posts posted by Souster
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Thanks Ian that's great. Sorry I missed this reply.
One thing I forgot to ask...
Should I put any lubricant on the spigot bush, the gearbox shaft and the clutch fork pivot? Or anywhere else for that matter. If so, what sort of lubricant?!
Should be fitting it within the next day or so.
Thanks
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Ferodo were the manufacturers for land rover brake pads around the 300tdi/td5 years.
I think they are slightly better than mintex, don't squeal. But Ive got mintex on and they are fine.
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Nice welding. Great work
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Thanks Ralph. Just ordered one cheers
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Hi all
There's a few questions in this one so beware haha.
Time has come to fit a new clutch onto the 300tdi engine that I'm fitting. I would like some recent experiences from you guys on which brands to choose please and advise on which one.
I've hauled through many many threads but some of them date back quite far, and as you know. Parts quality can vary over that time. So 3 options: Valeo, AP driveline and Borg & Beck? Which Do you prefer. I can get the Valeo standard duty for a very good price, cheaper than all others by quite a lot.
Should I go for a 130 clutch? What are the benefits other than it being heavier duty? I don't really do much towing, if I do its under 1 tonne. When I go off road I rarely work it harder than on the road, other than the odd occasion pulling someone out. Couple of times a year at most.
Do 130 clutches make it harder to depress the clutch and cause more or less gearbox chatter? Are they harsher when taking up drive.
I'm obviously replacing crank seal, spigot bush etc. But is it worth replacing the master and slave cylinder, they are working fine at the moment.
Thanks in advance
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Hi all
Going to fit the rear crank seal to my donor 300tdi engine today, but there's a few things I'm a bit unsure of...
I've ordered genuine land rover items. The seal guide that comes with the rear crank seal is loose in the sealed bag, it's not actually fitted in the seal if you get me it''s separate/loose. And the rave manual states, don't fit a seal if the seal guide is either missing or not in position.
Is this seal faulty and should I return it? Or is it a case of fitting the seal guide in the seal, and then sliding it over the crank, then remove the guide? (I'll use some threaded bar to position it)
Any tips would be great as I haven't got much knowledge on this.
Lastly, should the spigot bush be lubricated before hand or lubricated in position. Rave manual doesn't state either so I'm guessing it's self lubricating.
Thanks a lot.
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You can check the vacuum pump by buying a cheap vacuum gauge and checking the reading.
I doubt it's that though to be honest if the pedal is sinking on start up, and if the pedal feels like it has servo assistance when the engine is running it doesn't sound like servo or pump.
If the pedal is firm and doesn't creep at all (air or failing master cylinder) I'd be inclined to try another set of brake pads. Delphi or ferodo. They arent expensive.
Other than that, there isn't much more it can be. Just make sure all bleed nipped are at the top of each caliper so it can be bled correctly.
HTH
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
Very little wear in all of them.
Now you have them out though.....
Thanks Bowie that's good to hear. Original shells are sitting on the bench at the moment, as you say seems daft to refit.
Should I just buy brand new standard shells then, big ends or mains as well?
Are king bearings a good make for shells?
Cheers
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Hi chaps.
Took the sump off this afternoon, as it needed re-sealing anyway. While I was in there I decided to remove the big end caps, and inspect the shells. To my untrained eye I think they look pretty good, however I'm no expert. So I'd appreciate the opinions of you experts please.
Should I replace these shells? And while the sump is off, is there anything else I should do?
I then took No.3 mains cap off, a inspected the bottom shell, which I believe is the one that wears the most.
Any input very welcome. Thanks alot
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Cheers guys. Sounds like the shocks are okay then.
Are the springs okay to fit then? Seems strange to me, I doubt that's how they were fitted out the factory when they have all those different variations/part numbers.
Shall I go ahead and fit?
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Hi All
I bought some springs and shocks off ebay removed from a puma which hadn't done many miles. In good condition and everything, I just have a query regarding the fitting/part numbers.
The front springs are both REB500220 red/green/orange. Which from googling the part numbers are both passenger side springs? Are they okay to fit, seems odd that they are both passenger side?!
The rears is the same story, RKB500270 white/green/pink which I'm led to believe is drivers side.
Are these okay to fit? Why are they handed? How will they be on a 90 truck cab, stiff?Also, are shocks meant to extend by themselves, as these don't, they just remain in position?
Thanks in advance -
Thanks for your help chaps.
Removed the cylinder head over the weekend, and was pleasantly surprised (for a change with a land rovery aha) with what it revealed.
There was no blowing of the head gasket at all, the gasket still had the land rover badge on so could this be the original? And all the bores looked near perfect (from what my little knowledge tells me), all honing marks were consistent and no up and down marks in the bore. No ridges in the bore either, other than 5mm of carbon around the top, which when removed doesn't leave any ridges.
The head looks good too, no cracking or blowing of any kind. Virtually no corrosion or pitting where the water galleries are. So I'm guessing regular anti freeze changes?
Now, the main reason for this post... I've bought a new set of glow plugs, and you wouldn't believe it, I've actually managed to torque all 4 glow plugs up to spec. Therefor, the one hole with the not so good thread has tightened down fine.
Do I leave it be, or get it helicoiled still?
Any input welcome. Thank's again
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Make sure it's a good fitting Allen key/socket into that grub screw. They are really tight, and thread locked into place. The slightest bit of dirt and incorrect fit chews them up. HTH
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On Thursday, October 06, 2016 at 11:29 AM, honitonhobbit said:
If it's out then then go round it with a fine tooth comb
Core plugs - don't just check, replace
Gaskets on ancillaries
Head off to sort the stripped thread - fit an Elford head gasket, bought direct form the factory
Valve stem seals
Front and rear crank seals
Front and cam seal
Oil separator - replace
Cam belt and followers
In fact everything - none of it is expensive, none of it difficult, but then it's done
Thanks for the reply.
Regarding the stem seals, how does it work regarding disturbing the valves? Obviously I keep the valves in order, but will they seat and seal as well after they've been removed?
As you can tell, even though I want to do a good job and have it running perfectly, I'm very cautious to mess with something running so well. In one sense, if it ain't broke don't fix it haha. But on the other hand, don't want to be a month down the line and have blue smoke on start up.
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Thanks chaps.
Looks like the head is coming off then. Anything else I should do while I'm in there and the engine is removed?
Wanting this engine to be very reliable and very strong. So all suggestions welcomed
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9 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said:
I would happily fit that with just the bits you mentioned replaced.
Only proper option is to fit a helicoil the affected thread or replace the head entirely.
Thanks Vulcan. It sounds like a healthy engine to you to then?
I mean the oil is filthy, with a good service and a good run I think it would feel even better.
Save myself the work and just do the neccessary bits then? (Clutch, cambelt, and it's looking like head gasket unless I can plug the glow plug hole to prevent swarf)
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10 minutes ago, western said:
head off & have the glowplug hole thread repaired with a helicoil thread insert.
Looks like it will be a project after all then ay Ralph. Cheers mate
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Hi all
Need your opinions please on the engine condition please....
Finally got my hands on a 300tdi, it's actually still in a discovery 1 MOT fail. It's done 150k miles.
Now the engine sounds sweet as a nut, starts on the button from cold with no blue smoke on startup, Just a small black puff. When cold there is zeropuffing/breathing/steam out the filler cap or dipstick, a very slight bit of steam when warm out the filler cap. Only a fraction really that can be seen with a torch in the dark. Is that a sign of wear?
The engine pulls like a train, and thedifference is black and white compared to the engine it's replacing in my defender.
I managed to get some compressionreadings when warm.
Cylinder 1: 380
Cylinder 2: 380
Cylinder 3: 390
Do these sound good to you guys?
Now unfortunately, I stripped the glow plug hole on cylinder 4. I managed to getthe glow plug back in and not losing any compression on tick over. What are my options here?
So my question is, it seems to good to strip down and rebuild, when it's running so well. What would you guys do?
Obviously the engine has got to come out. Would you rebuild it? Or Just put acambelt, clutch and crank seal? Orsomething else?
It also doesn't leak.
Thanks in advance guys -
Hi all
Need your opinions please on the engine condition please....
Finally got my hands on a 300tdi, it's actually still in a discovery 1 MOT fail. It's done 150k miles.
Now the engine sounds sweet as a nut, starts on the button from cold with no blue smoke on startup, Just a small black puff. When cold there is zeropuffing/breathing/steam out the filler cap or dipstick, a very slight bit of steam when warm out the filler cap. Only a fraction really that can be seen with a torch in the dark. Is that a sign of wear?
The engine pulls like a train, and thedifference is black and white compared to the engine it's replacing in my defender.
I managed to get some compressionreadings when warm.
Cylinder 1: 380
Cylinder 2: 380
Cylinder 3: 390
Do these sound good to you guys?
Now unfortunately, I stripped the glow plug hole on cylinder 4. I managed to getthe glow plug back in and not losing any compression on tick over. What are my options here?
So my question is, it seems to good to strip down and rebuild, when it's running so well. What would you guys do?
Obviously the engine has got to come out. Would you rebuild it? Or Just put acambelt, clutch and crank seal? Orsomething else?
It also doesn't leak.
Thanks in advance guys -
Thanks Vulcan and Les.
Thats good news. I'm glad it won't affect the value.
Granted I'll be stripping it apart an rebuilding. But how important is it to hear one of these engines running before buying? Imy guessing the better the engine from the start, the less money it requires getting it up to scratch with rebuilding
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I'm no expert. But have you tried it on 15w40 oil? Mind I spose when it's warm it will make no difference.
My 300tdi isn't the best engine, it's noisy and down on power. However, it doesn't use a drop of oil between services either. Just thought it's worth a mention
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Hi all..
My defender 90 300tdi has always been very sluggish and noisy from the day I had it, a real poor performer. Tried everything to remedy it so deciding to replace.
I plan on doing an engine rebuild as a winter project from a discovery, and replacing my defender engine. It will be a full rebuild to as new like it left the factory all being well.
My question is, will fitting a rebuilt discovery engine affect the value of the vehicle and cause any problems when I come to sell?
Thanks a lot.
(If anyone knows of a good 300tdi going spare please pm. Midlands)
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Just tested my alternator.
I'm getting 14.7 volts on tick over.
14.3 volts when revved .
I was under the impression the voltage increased when revved, not decreased?
Bulkhead post was spotless too.
Does this sound normal?
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clean the earth wires at bulkhead earth point single screw or bolt with lots of plain black wires under it, these earth lots of circuits.
I think I've already done that Ralph. But I will double check again thanks mate
Mating engine to gearbox problems
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi all
Fitting a 300tdi to an r380 gearbox and having so much trouble. Tried for 3 days now and still absolutely no luck!
It's a 300tdi engine to a defender r380. Fitted with a brand new genuine land rover spigot bush, new clutch kit all lined up with an alignment tool bought off ebay.
I've got the engine on a hoist, I can seem to get either the top of the bell housing and engine to meet, or the bottom. Occasionally can get it even all the way round but it still wont go that last bit. Im about an 1 and half inches away from getting the engine to sit up tp the gearbox.
I've tried jacking the gearbox, tried all different positions still no luck. Removed the slave cylinder to release pressure off the release bearing. No luck! Also tried clutch friction plate on gearbox splines, and it fits no problem.
I don't think it's the clutch at fault, or my alignment, because I've stuck it in 2nd gear and turned the crank and the car started to move. So to me that means the clutch is on the splines fine, it just won't go that last bit.
There's also no dowles/studs or threads in the way.
Could the spigot bush be the problem, could it be too tight? It is genuine land rover. I'm going to remove it tomorrow and see if it fits on the gearbox, if it doesnt I spose that could be the problem.
Any tips, hints and comments welcomed. Really hating this job at the moment. Thanks