Souster
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Posts posted by Souster
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Was with Adrian flux last year. This year footman james considerably cheaper
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Thanks anyway mate.
How many of you use a dial type torque wrench? And how many of you use the click type with success?
Buying a dial type seems very pricey
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Where abouts are you?
Wolverhampton based mate
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As stated above the tension is not the cause of the problem and is not critical. Something else is not correct. Check that all teh pulleys are secure and can not move in or out. Put a straightedge on them and make sure they are all in line.
Thanks for the reply (s).
So if tension is not the problem. I have no idea what is the cause for the belt moving across and rubbing on the engine side, casing. Its rubbed that badly that when i removed the front cover only half the belt was remaining, and masses of rubber swarf.
Ive had the timing gear off 3 times:
1. Land rover specialist fitted modified timing kit. ALL Ok.
2. I Had to replace the Crank seal which said land rover specialist fitted poor quality seal and it failed. Fitted new belt in process. ALL OK.
3. I removed front cover and timing belt attempting to advance the FIP gear due to running out of adjustment in the inspection hatch (factory setting with 9.5mm pin was as far advanced as it would allow). Basically trying to get the the bottom of diesel knock that i had. And unfortunatley, this time caused the FAILURE.
This evening i removed the FIP gear again to see if i had fitted it wrong etc, but realised it could only be fitted in one way. Also i checked the modifed crank gear with no issues, and all the gears/pulleys are in line.
Anyone got any further ideas to stop this happening again?
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Thanks for replys.
I didn't adjust/remove the centre nut on FIP, so that's not the issue.
Regarding the belt tension. I didn't use a dial type torque wrench to tension the belt, I just used a normal click type wrench. (Granted it was tensioned to 15 and not 11nm). And also did the same on my dad's.
Would you advise me to inspect my dad's timing belt gear, and re adjust the tension to 11nm. Is a dial type torque wrench absolutely necessary?
Cheers
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Thankyou everyone for your help. I've got all fingers crossed that the valves are okay.
One thing that is concerning me is that last time I had the belt off, I removed the FIP gear, to try and advance the timing slightly. After instruction from a friend. However I ran out of adjustment, and just refitted the gear.
Could I have done anything wrong in refitting it? Can it only be fitted one way with the retaining plate?
I now know thanks to you guys that the belt tension is 11nm instead of 15nm.
I've got a new timing kit coming tomorrow, apparently britpart with 'G' part numbers. Despite there being no markings on the tensioner and idler it's apparently OEM. So I hope it's okay.
I've also ordered 8 new push rods, and checked cam followers which are fine. Is there anything else I should check?
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The 15nm catches people out because of the service bulletin that is easily missed:
STC4096L is a good kit to get. Bearmach have good parts and forged crank pulley
https://www.lrdirect.com/STC4096L-Modified-Timing-Belt-Pulley-Kit-3/
The specific parts you listed seem correct; they match here: http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/timing-belt-modified-britpart-stc4096l-p-8163.html
Thankyou mate thats very helpfull.
Ive got a few questions for you all that im unsure on....
1. Would you advise replacing the tensioner and idler despite them being fairly new? (Already had the modified crank gear etc fitted)
2. When refitting the belt, How can i check its aligned properly?
3. Can i still follow the rave manual, and just tension to a different figure to what the manual states?
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Unfortunately, the previous owner stripped the timing case wading plug thread on my 300tdi. And I've been making do with PTFE tape.
Been as I've got the front cover off, I've decided to fix it and repair the thread. What's the best way of doing this?
Thanks alot
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Guys can anyone confirm these parts are suitable for my 300tdi with the modified crank gear? Mine is a 1995 300tdi defender 90. The reason I ask I'm getting confused with earlier and later type timing kits.
1x ERR1092 Dayco Timing Belt
1x LHP100860 Tensioner
1x LHV100150 Idler
1x ERR7293 Front Cover gasket
Thanks
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Could be overtightening (15nm instead of 11)
Also, not pushing the crank sprocket in far enough (it takes some effort to get the o-ring to seat)
Thanks for the reply.
I followed the Rave manual for tensioning the belt, IIRC it states 15nm, is this wrong now? I did use two torque wrenches to tension the belt.
Is there a way you would advise pushing the crank gear fully home? I have got a spare crank gear if that would help, just don't want to push it too far and cause damage.
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Thanks all. You were right, failed timing belt. It looks like it has been rubbing somewhere very badly, the whole cover was full of rubber swarf from the belt with only half the belt remaining.
What could have caused such drastic rubbing like this? It's only done about 1000 miles since I refitted it.
http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac253/souster4/Mobile%20Uploads/20150824_224601.jpg
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Thanks to you all.
I had the timing kit replaced by a local land rover specialist. But then the crank seal failed due to them fitting a poor brand. They replaced the tensioner and fitted a modified crank gear.
I then replaced the crank seal along with a brand new dayco belt. So is there any reason the belt could have failed? Could it have been fitted incorrectly? Aligned wrongly?
So where do I start...
Inspect and replace timing kit
Replace all push rods and broken rocker arm? Re do valve clearances and see how it runs?
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Hi all
Had a break down yesterday in my 300tdi returning from wales about 40 mile into our 120 mile journey.
I had noticed the engine was very noisy and down on power, and tried to find somewhere safe to pull over and investigate in the engine bay. Unfortunatley, before i managed to pull over. The engine cut out at 40MPH, and would just about restart, to pull into a safe place in low range 1st gear.
The engine sounded like it was running on 2 or 3 cyclinders, and like the exhaust had fell off. Incredibly rough!
Anyway, i looked in the engine bay and couldnt find anything wrong, no oil and water mixing and no fluid loss. So phoned for recovery.
The recovery guy turned up and popped off the intercooler top hose and started the engine, to find the inlet manifold was blowing out, and extremely noisy. With lots of grey/blue smoke out of the exhaust. The engine would barely run, even worse once it had cooled. He suspected valve damage!
This evening, i removed the rocker cover, to find a snapped rocker arm and a bent push rod under that arm. And havent had chance to investigate any further as im not sure of where to look.Can anyone help please? Where should i start looking? What could caused the pushrods to bend and snap a rocker arm?
any advise would be greatly apprecited, Thanks alot -
I thought MTF was Manual Transmission Fluid?
Me too.
I Didn't know ATF was thinner than MTF though. I did try ATF some time back, replaced the ATF that was originally in the box. Can only remember that the fresh new ATF (thicker due to being new?) Wasn't as good as what I drained out. It made 2nd gear much harder to change when cold.
In fact I actually regretted changing the gearbox oil.
2nd gear won't go in for nothing in the winter untill the box has warmed up. Then short shifting at low revs untill finally changing half decent after a fair few miles. Summer is slightly better!
My dad has just bought a 300tdi defender with an R380. And some of you will totally disagree with this...
But I advised him not to change the gearbox oil, because it is changing so nicely as it is now. A gear oil change may make it worse, like it did with mine. Odd I know, you'd think it would be the opposite.
If ATF is thinner than MTF94 though I think I may give it ago.
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For some reason, my R380 box won't change into second when cold with MTF94. Give it a few miles and it will change into second gear but with a crunch. Give it a few more miles and it changes into second near perfect!
There is 135k on the box though. It's a bit annoying because it's clearly lubricant related as once the box and oil gets warm it's fine.
Is almost seems like the MTF94 is too thick? The hotter the gearbox gets, the better the gear change, even ambient temperature makes a big difference.
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Hi all
Recently purchased a black sheep cross member, what an incredible peice of fabrication.
I'd like to keep it looking as new for as long as possible, and am not sure what paint to use. Has anyone got any recommendations? I want something decent and long lasting, my plan is to paint it and then dinitrol over the top and the rest of the chassis.
Thanks alot
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Just a suggestion, and apologies if it's a stupid one but it's a land rover, and they are strange.
But on my 300tdi 90, granted a totally different set up to you being standard.
My apparent over heating issue was due to a poor main vehicle earth. It was only showing too hot at 50mph plus, into the red zone. Same with different gauges and senders. It's surprising the impact poor earth's have.
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I also saw this today. Bargain I think! Valvoline is plenty good enough for a 300tdi, been about years.
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I also saw this today. Bargain I think! Valvoline is plenty good enough for a 300tdi, been about years.
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+2 on what western posted. Worked on kunifer for me. Granted I only did a few pipes but it was faultless.
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Sorry to dig this thread back up guys. I was looking into fitting new hinges this afternoon. And was going to buy the TD5 type. Untill I saw what Retroanaconda put regarding the newer style hinges being a different shape, Therefor leaving an area of no paint/old paint around the new style hinge.
Are they different shims to avoid this? Or is it a case of repainting in order to avoid it looking wrong.
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If you are getting knocking that's usually a sign of too far advanced. Are you sure you are adjusting in the right direction?
I didn't realise that. It's knocking a fair amount when cold, when warmed up it'd not as bad. I'm rotating the fip clockwise, which seemed to make it slightly better.
One other thing I would like to add, is there seems loadsss of turbo lag, it's extremely down on power untill you can hear the turbo sucking/blowing which is quite loud. Again much worse when cold and better warmed up!
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Nothing wrong with comma oil. They've been about years and very reputable
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Belt stretched? They will usually go one tooth either way, been there done that
It's a brand new belt. Or at least was 200/300 miles ago. Me and my dad were both looking at it, and we're racking our brains on how to adjust it a tooth. And each orientation we tried failed and brought us back to the original position.
What does concern me is most 300tdi engines are timed using the 9.5mm pin, including my dad's and run faultlessly with no knocking. Baffles me to why mines different.
Thanks to all
Broken 300tdi. Wont run!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Managed to borrow a dial gauge and torque the belt up this evening as per your instructions. Thanks guys.
Would there be any issues with turning the engine over on the starter motor to see how the belt runs? And to see if it rides across anywhere. Have no idea how the belt failed to tell the truth. Can't see any rub marks on casings. And don't want this to happen again.
Cheers