Souster

The clips Mo linked worked far better for stopping pad rattle on 2 of my 90's. Really worthwhile fitting!

Hi guys I've just purchased genuine land rover door seals for the front of my TD5 90. And the doors have to be slammed to make them close properly on the 2nd click of the latch. As soon as the old ones are refitted, doors close absolutely perfectly. Sadly, the original drivers one is in a poor state, else it would be refitted. I'm familiar with the striker adjustment, and its adjusted as far out as I'm willing to accept. Has anyone else had this issue with new seals? I was under the impression that genuine seals were my best option. However, they aren't working well on my 90. I take it puma seals are the same as the older ones. Cheers guys

Thanks mate. So do they eliminate the rubber buffers on the puma and just use AZT500020? I take it AZT500020 can be used on older models?

Hi all Currently got the van panels off my defender 90 td5, and when looking to replace the odd seal etc I noticed there was 2 types of bushes for the rear tub to van panels. I need to buy some replacements as my original rubber ones have had it. But there are 2 kinds, the later type seem easier to come by and cheaper. Anyone used the newer type and can report they worked? The type that was fitted https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/338553 The newer type https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/AZT500020 Cheers guys

Hi guys. Didn't want to start a new thread for this. But im just wondering what to lubricate the internals of the lock with. I've cleaned it out and its bone dry now, been in the dishwasher infact. Would grease be ok in the mechanism and graphite lubricant in the lock barrel itself? Thanks

Thanks everyone for your help posting. I'm going to give removing the housing a go, hopefully won't be too much of a pig. And replace the seal behind. Also going to fit a low coolant alarm in the header tank while the coolant is drained.

Thanks alot guys. I will bare that in mind. I find the constant tension hose clips on the TD5 always seem to seep slightly. Is there any reason why they didn't fit worm drive hose clamps? I'm thinking of changing to those, any reason why I shouldn't?

Hi all Got to do the water pump on my TD5, Slight leak from the weep hole. Which brand would you go for, QH or pro flow? (Are genuine LR Quinton Hazell?) Anything else I should do while in there? Do all the seals that are required come with the pump? Any tips welcome. Cheers

With other faults such as interior lights diming and your fuel gauge.... my limited knowledge would say look closer into earth issues. Make sure the bulkhead earth is clean, and also the one next to the ECU. Most important one is the chassis to transfer box earth. I had all sorts of issues in the past from bad earths. Lighting and what i thought was over heating. All sorted with good earth's.

Thanks Ralph. Unfortunately no luck their. Figured the spring out but not sure on the rivets or bolts

Hi guys. Happy new year I've split the rear door lock on my TD5 to add central locking. My first question is, Pop rivets or small bolts to reassemble the two halves of the safari lock. I'm concerned about either sitting proud from the lock instead of flush. As a result causing, causing the lock to sit off the back door and cause a leak. Secondly, The small spring that sits behind the small internal lever. Arrowed in the picture below.. the centre of the spring isn't meant to sit in the centre of the hole of the casing is it? I'm hoping it sits off to the side else I've got no chance of getting it back together. Thanks guys. Would like to hear what you have used to reassemble.

Sounds like it could be earth faults. Start by cleaning up the one on the transfer box and chassis. Then bulkhead etc. All earth points can be found at the bottom of the page in this link. https://www.lrworkshop.com/electrics/defender-1999/fuse-boxes-earths-and-headers Hope that helps

Hi guys Has anyone made a substitute for the rather expensive peace of foam that fits between the dash and bulkhead heater duct on pre puma models. I realise it's just foam, but unsure of what thickness to buy if I make my own. I've got the dash removed on my td5 90, and want to make sure I dont have any heat escaping as I need all that I can get haha. thanks in advance

Hi guys Sorry for the late reply. Injector cleaner and try bump starting it is definitely worth a try, it's difficult with it being not road worthy at the moment, but worth bearing in mind. The fuel system purge process hasnt worked in the past either. However, air was heard when the fuel pump was engaged today. So, I managed to get a mechanic friend to put a diagnostics machine on it today. The MAF sensor was reading next to no values, so that's scrap. But the strange live data that we observed was the ambient air temp reading 150°c. Anyone have any ideas why this would be? Somehow got a funny feeling the sensor isnt faulty; but could be wrong? Lastly, I replaced the air bleed valve in the filter housing. The new one could only blow one way, but the old I could blow either way. So I'm hoping that will help. Any ideas where I should go next please? Thanks

Hi guys I've got a 2000 TD5 95k on the clock. Purchased late last year, and since buying it I've had starting issues when it's been standing. Anyway, I've got it in the workshop at the moment for some body work. But the starting issues are causing it to be be a PITA. Let's say its left for a few days, when I go to it, it will crank andcrank and misfire, try again and it will run but miss for a few seconds. Then runperfectly! This happens every single time, but today it cranked untill the battery was getting low. Since buying it alot of things have been done to rule out the starting issue with no success: *New OEM injector harness *New genuine injector o rings & seals *New fuel/air/oil filters *Crank sensor removed and cleaned *Previous owner fitted new filter housing, also checked duckbill valve and replaced copper washers * glow plugs removed and tested * FPR rebuilt with OEM parts * New starter motor * EGR Blanked and removed wiring * Red plug cleaned several times * ECU Opened up to check and clean * All earthing points cleaned and additional added for engine * certain of no diesel in the oil * wastegate freed off * can hear pump running when key isturned * cleaned inlet manifold sensor * done the bleeding sequence a few times Once the engine is running, I cant really fault the sound of it. No smoke and seems to start back up pretty well. Although i havent checked this repeatedly as at the moment it hasnt had a good run, and thought it may not be too healthy for theengine. Only thing I will add, it's got about 1/4 tank of diesel, but that shouldn't makea difference should it? With my minimal knowledge and experience its seeming like air in the fuel? Can anyone help with this please?Unfortunately I cant get it to a garage fordiagnostics at the moment. Thanks in advance guys

+1 on the waste gate actuator. Had the same on mine. Also double check red ECU plug under the seat.

Hi guys I'm going to update this thread and highlight my stupidity, but hopefully it will help someone else.. The error I made was, I adjusted the rocker adjusters similar to how you would set tappets. So I just tightened the adjusting screw untill it touched the injector and then back one turn. This is WRONG! You have to wind down the adjusting screw against the pushrod spring on the injector untill you feel it bottom out and then slacken 1 full turn and tighten the locknut. My lack of knowledge caught me out. And unfortunately damaged the thread on one of the adjusting screws. So waiting on a replacement and hopefully all will be well. Do the said adjusting screws only thread out the rockers the one way? Cheers all

Evening all I stupidly braved the cold this evening and tackled the injector seals on my 2000 td5. Now it's all back together and running like a bag of spanners. Plooms of white smoke and alot of knocking. Maybe a cylinder down. Starts on button though. Looking back, I wasnt in the right frame of mind for this job tonight. Firstly, I only unplugged the pipe off the fuel pressure regulator, been as I couldnt get to the cooler pipe. I just left it. Secondly, When undoing the rocker shaft, I went in increments, but I'll be honest I could have gone around the bolts alot more than I did. I thought they were lose but they were still holding it down into the head. Second mistake was , the injector pushrod and spring came off the injector on number 1. As I pulled up in the wrongplace! It seem to push back together okay though? Replaced all seals and washers. Anyway reinstalled the rocker shaft. Made sure I'd backed off the rocker armadjusters (that adjust ontop of injectors) and then turned the crank untill the lobe was at its highest lift. Turned the adjuster down untill it touched and then backed off 1 turn. I followed this for each one. The only thing is, the nuts just seemed to be turning and turning for ages. Then finally they would lock. Odd!! So any ideas what I have done wrong or what is causing the problem. Can oil in the connectors ontop of the injectors where the loom plugs in cause it to run rough. Any ideas please guys. Some days you know you should quit spannering, but want to get it done (As a side note... it is safe scraping the carbon off the injector nozzle providing it's not anywhere near the tip isnt it?)

Thanks for the help. Took it to a land rover indy today, who very quickly put it on diagnostics, which read zero as a MAF reading. He said also that unplugging the MAF will make it drive better. However it was worse?! And slower. MAP sensor cleaned in the inlet manifold. All filters new. I think the majority of the problem with the noise is the actual centre silencer removed. It's awful, way too noisy

Hi I've been ticking off the jobs on my recently purchased 2000 defender 90 and its slowly improving. It has been sat for a good few years, and ran like a bag on spanners when I first drove it home. Anyway, it pulls so well bottom and mid range, I cant fault it in the slightest. Butanything over 60 or 65 is an ear ache anda choir for the motor. I also have like a rattle jiggling noise which doesnt disappear when clutch dipped. Its deffo not engine, more speed related?? I'm led to believe 70-80 should be no problem in a good td5, on muds. Well this one is on AT's. Right so heres what I've done: *Fully serviced *Blanked EGR *ECU Plug cleaned after harness *Wastegate actuator freed off *Filter head replaced with new internals in the right locations *cleaned MAP sensor * ran without MAF Pump seems to be okay noise wise, primed it today after filter change and filter housing and all good. It is running without a centre box and a cat, which although sounds great. Isnt good for volume at all, so I think a centre silencer will be ordered. Any ideas why I cant get it into a good cruising speed please guys, and whatcould the rattle/jingling be? Thanks guys

guys ive got an abundance of ep90 gl4 in the garage. Would it be safe to use in a 2000 td5 transfer box without any harm? i know rave specifies 75w90 but is it that important, will it help take out a bit of backlash until it gets warm? TIA

False alarm guys. No pun intended haha. It was due to also swapping the radio and it must of immobilized it with the cobra alarm. So if anyone knows how to swap the radio with one of those alarms any help would be great. Mods feel free to delete thread if need be. Thanks again

Hi guys I'm finally back on the scene with another defender 90. This time with a 2000 model td5 90. It's been a while since land rover ownership, but this one hasnt began too well. Last week I bought this td5, with 95k on the clock. Noticed the injector loom was leaking oil into the red plug under the seat, so lastnight I replaced the loom and flushed the red plug with brake cleaner. Let the plug dry over night, come to start it this morning. And it wont start! It's sort of doing half a crank, and then stopping dead. Every time! Sort of like something is stopping the engine from rotating?? I fitted an OEM loom, battery reading 12.5 volts, and has a cobra alarm/immobiliser. Any ideas please? Thanks in advance

Just like to say a big thanks to everyone for your help. Fitted a new genuine land rover bush this afternoon, reamed it very slightly and refitted clutch. Engine was mated to the box like a glove 5 minutes later. Thanks again chaps. Lets hope it runs well now

Thanks very much for all your replies I really appreciate it. I won't quote each an every one as I'm not the best at it haha. I haven't got a load leveler, so that maybe something to try and borrow or bite the bullet and get one! I must admit the engine hasn't been going in level, but I didn't think that mattered providing the gearbox was jacked up to suit? How much jacking up can the gearbox take? The clutch plate certainly isn't burred or the cause of the problem, as I've fetched it off and slid it on the gearbox shaft with no effort at all! The angle of entry could still be the problem, but I've tried that many times I would have thought I'd have got it with how many attempts I've had. Regarding the spigot bush, how do you go about reaming the bush? If the diameter of the bush reduces when it's installed to the crank, how the hell do you know it's going to fit without some very precise and expensive measuring equipment? I know the bush is perfect, there's no lip or anything. I was going to hydraulic the bush out tomorrow, test it fits on the gearbox shaft and go from there. Although I Dont think that will gain me a lot as again, I'm told the I.D reduced when fitted in crank. I wouldn't mind if this was britpart, but it's genuine land rover as I disn't want to be mucking about like I am now. Hopefully I'll have some help tomorrow, fingers crossed we can get it sorted. Thanks again chaps