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haakon

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Posts posted by haakon

  1. Might be something wrong with the canister purge valve (like stuck open) so it allows fuel vapors to pass to the engine on idle or vehicle not moving (which it shouldn't do).

    Try clamping the hose between the canister and the intake plenum if the hose is soft/flexible enough or disconnect the hose and block both sides (be careful what you use to block the intake plenum hole to prevent it being sucked in by the vacuum).

    Do a test drive with the hose clamped/disconnected and see what happens.

    I've got some time of today, so I'll give this a try. What should happen? :)

  2. If that is the case then one of them may well be connected to 12v inside the loom and you need to identify which one and connect it to the +ve terminal of the coil. The other wire than connects to the -ve of the coil. If the wires still have their plugs on the end then that makes life easier as they can only go on one way as one will be male and the other female to match the coil.

    How do you identify which one is + ve and which one is -ve?

  3. Ok, so just carp from Summit then? :(

    My old distributor was a 35DM8 and the one I've borrowed is a 35DLM8. Does anyone know how to wire the ignition amp ? It's two pins on the ignition amp.

    I'm getting closer to MS every day now.. To bad this website isn't working. It was very informative.

  4. I asked Summit why my distributor wouldn't work on my car:

    "The ECU needs to have rpm input from the distributor and to control the timing curve in relation to the fuel curve for the injection.

    I don't know of anyone offering an aftermarket distributor for it. You will most likely need to use the stock one or obtain one from a dealer."

  5. Emailen Summit and asked them if they had any suggestions with regards to my distributor.

    I received this answer:" Has this been converted to a carburetor? If this still has the EFI, you will not be able to make it run properly." :unsure:

    So tomorrow I'll try with the an original one.

  6. Update:

    I changed the gear the on my Mallory distributir yesterday, and it was different from my original. That is why I had to have some much BTDC to make the car run.

    So I sat the timing to 4° BTDC, adjusted base idle, CO2 and lambda to the correct levels. The engine ran smoothly and was fairlu easy to start when it was warm.

    So I took it for a test drive and it stopped running belove 800-900 rpm. I managed to start when I had full throttle.

    This morning it was difficult to start and it stopped when I parked outside work.

    I have a Piper RP4 camshaft, does it require more than 4°? Or do I have a fuel problem? Or other suggestions?

  7. Thanks FridgeFreezer. If I go down the MS path, I think that starting with fuel control will be the best for me.

    I do suspect that my distrubutor is giving me some problems. I've been reading about Mallory and trying to find info. I've found this . I've not changed the gear on my distributor. Could this give me ignition trouble?

  8. I had some leaking injectors and therefore I decided to change them all at once.

    What will MS cost me? And what do I need? And last, but not least, I live in Norway, and there are no LR's as far as I know that run MS, so will I get to work? I'm not very good with engines :) Can I be bought as a complete system?

    I do suspect that my distributor is not behaving the way it should. I'll try with an original to see what will happen.

  9. I've got a D1 V8 efi automatic Saudi spec. My original distributor gave me some troubles last summer and was therefore changed with a new Mallory distributor. The ignition timing was set accordlingy to the manual, but now the car wouldn't start whenever the enginge was warm. So the next suspect was fuel, and I have therefore changed the injectors, all the sensor, the fuel pump, fuel filter, stepper, fuel pressure regulator but it still doesn't start whenever the engine is warm. The only way to start the engine is to have full throttle.

    So today I decided to have a look at ignition again. I've now set the ignition timing in the area around 20-25 degree and now it runs nice and it starts when the engine is warm. The idle is a bit to high, around 950 rpm and it goes a bit up and down. I have not tried to adjust the base idle. I've tried to adjust it back the 4 degrees it runs bad and will stop shortly.

    I've a Piper RP4 camshaft. So my question is, does anyone have good suggestions to why my timing is so way off? Anyone with Mallory distributors and/or Piper cam that have any ideas? Any other suggestions?

    Should I start reading more about MS?

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