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Posts posted by haakon
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Sorry
I meant on the ign amp
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If that is the case then one of them may well be connected to 12v inside the loom and you need to identify which one and connect it to the +ve terminal of the coil. The other wire than connects to the -ve of the coil. If the wires still have their plugs on the end then that makes life easier as they can only go on one way as one will be male and the other female to match the coil.
How do you identify which one is + ve and which one is -ve?
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Removed www and it works for me as well.
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Hmm. I see this:
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Ok, so just carp from Summit then?
My old distributor was a 35DM8 and the one I've borrowed is a 35DLM8. Does anyone know how to wire the ignition amp ? It's two pins on the ignition amp.
I'm getting closer to MS every day now.. To bad this website isn't working. It was very informative.
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I asked Summit why my distributor wouldn't work on my car:
"The ECU needs to have rpm input from the distributor and to control the timing curve in relation to the fuel curve for the injection.
I don't know of anyone offering an aftermarket distributor for it. You will most likely need to use the stock one or obtain one from a dealer."
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I've now borrowed a distribtur from RRC, but it has the ignition module sitting on the side of the distributor. Will it work?
Does any know the recommend max vacuum advance for the 3,9?
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Emailen Summit and asked them if they had any suggestions with regards to my distributor.
I received this answer:" Has this been converted to a carburetor? If this still has the EFI, you will not be able to make it run properly."
So tomorrow I'll try with the an original one.
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No, I didn't have any clamps available. However, I get different errors depending on how I set the ignition.. Sometimes it runs ok on idle, sometimes on high rpms.. Sometimes it starts when the engines is hot, sometimes not.
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Yesterday I sat the ignintion to 36 degree and it ran ok for while. Then it stopped again ' It runs only in high rpm
I'm very close to give up and the sell the car in parts...
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As far I know the TDC has been checked and it was 2 degrees off So that I've been taking into considerations when adjusting the timing.
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Update:
I changed the gear the on my Mallory distributir yesterday, and it was different from my original. That is why I had to have some much BTDC to make the car run.
So I sat the timing to 4° BTDC, adjusted base idle, CO2 and lambda to the correct levels. The engine ran smoothly and was fairlu easy to start when it was warm.
So I took it for a test drive and it stopped running belove 800-900 rpm. I managed to start when I had full throttle.
This morning it was difficult to start and it stopped when I parked outside work.
I have a Piper RP4 camshaft, does it require more than 4°? Or do I have a fuel problem? Or other suggestions?
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BTW, I have some strange sounds coming from the Charcoal canister. What is the purpose of the Charcoal canister?
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I've got a original distributor. I will give that a try
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Thanks FridgeFreezer. If I go down the MS path, I think that starting with fuel control will be the best for me.
I do suspect that my distrubutor is giving me some problems. I've been reading about Mallory and trying to find info. I've found this . I've not changed the gear on my distributor. Could this give me ignition trouble?
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Well, that car is not running...
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I've read some of it already. Thanks
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I will need something like this? This will give fuel and ignition?
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I had some leaking injectors and therefore I decided to change them all at once.
What will MS cost me? And what do I need? And last, but not least, I live in Norway, and there are no LR's as far as I know that run MS, so will I get to work? I'm not very good with engines Can I be bought as a complete system?
I do suspect that my distributor is not behaving the way it should. I'll try with an original to see what will happen.
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I've got a D1 V8 efi automatic Saudi spec. My original distributor gave me some troubles last summer and was therefore changed with a new Mallory distributor. The ignition timing was set accordlingy to the manual, but now the car wouldn't start whenever the enginge was warm. So the next suspect was fuel, and I have therefore changed the injectors, all the sensor, the fuel pump, fuel filter, stepper, fuel pressure regulator but it still doesn't start whenever the engine is warm. The only way to start the engine is to have full throttle.
So today I decided to have a look at ignition again. I've now set the ignition timing in the area around 20-25 degree and now it runs nice and it starts when the engine is warm. The idle is a bit to high, around 950 rpm and it goes a bit up and down. I have not tried to adjust the base idle. I've tried to adjust it back the 4 degrees it runs bad and will stop shortly.
I've a Piper RP4 camshaft. So my question is, does anyone have good suggestions to why my timing is so way off? Anyone with Mallory distributors and/or Piper cam that have any ideas? Any other suggestions?
Should I start reading more about MS?
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I'm looking for a OBDII reader that I can use in my Disco V8 3,9l 1997. Any recommendations?
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I've tried to fit under the seat, but there is not enough room for the largest compressor. Or have I missed out of something?
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I had a look at this yesterday. To me it seems pretty much impossible to fit the largest kompressor in the engine bay. I'm considering putting in the back of my Disco. I will also give me easier access to the compressor.
D1 V8 EFI engine issues
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I've got some time of today, so I'll give this a try. What should happen?