DaveSIIA
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Posts posted by DaveSIIA
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Despite it being at the budget end of the market, I've had a Clarke 120E Mk2 for the past 30 odd years. The thing has been worked hard and continues to deliver the goods with whatever I've thrown at it - LR chassis, car repairs & even the odd bit of fabrication up to 8mm plate. Always been run with bottled gas and proved easy to get a good quality weld. Only real drawback has been the thermal cut out kicking in for sustained heavy duty welding (but I bought it primarily for LR work and that hasn't been a problem).
Torch has required complete replacement once in all the time I've owned it, tips & shrouds come under consumables. Parts have been easy to obtain and not expensive. Might consider a Euro torch next time it comes up for replacement. The earth clamp was upgraded early in its life.
Also has been easy to convert for occasional aluminium welding - wire, liner, tip & small bottled gas.
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Nice project. Should be an interesting drive when complete.
On the transmission side, I note you are opting for Compushift. Have you considered Microsquirt as the TCU? It is claimed to work in tandem with Megasquirt to retard the ignition during full power shifts, and may help protect the transmission. Although preconfigured to support US autoboxes, the principle of operation is the same for electronic control of the ZF 4HP22/24 - there is a reasonable amount of information on the forum about supporting 4HP22/24 & Megashift, pin outs, solenoid operation, etc.
The flip side with Compushift is that the job has been done numerous times before and you won't incur any real development / debugging time.
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
I'd be interested to know if the RV8 application had an adapter or bolted straight up -never played with a 727 box yet
Factory RRC fit came with a torque convertor housing to engine adapter plate. Back end fitted with an adaptor to a LT230.
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Tinning the ends of the wires and screw in to the block would improve long term reliability.
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When "adding it as an extra layer for initial heat ...", I would add it downstream of the original matrix so that warmed air doesn't flow over the heatsink of a cold matrix.
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Yes, don't have any part number though. I went in to my local motor factor and asked the lad at the counter. He bought out several bags of 10 in different sizes and I chose the sizes needed for the job (replacing perished boots on the suspension of an old Jaguar that had been standing too long). Weren't expensive.
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One-tonne Series LWB were fitted with a lower high range transfer gear. Could the box have been swapped at some point or might it be a One-tonne LWB (OP doesn't state vehicle)?
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2860 x 1470 x 195mm
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I'd check for a good earth on the trailer wiring itself, through to the 7 pin plug.
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Picked up a speedo binnacle from a scrap RR Classic 2 door, dismantled the housing and extracted the speedo head.
Series IIA / III speedo head is easy to open - examine the back of the black bezel to locate tags that are hooked over the lip cylindrical body. Rotate bezel until bezel and glass separate from the body, exposing the face of the speedo. Remove two screws from the back of the housing to release speedo head. RRC speedo head fits straight in and is secured by the same two screws. Align bezel and glass with body, and rotate to secure. RRC speedo cable fittings are the same as SIIA (but slightly longer) and will fit to drive on LT230 transfer box.
I would recommend starting with a SIIA speedo housing as I know from doing mine that everything fits together.
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The problem lies not with the drive gear in the Borg Warner, but with the Series 3 109 speedometer. The 109 speedo will require 1408 turns per mile (tpm) of the cable input whereas a Defender unit is nearer 1000 tpm, hence the 60mph > 40mph relationship. There should be some small lettering around bottom dead centre of the speedo face to confirm 1408 - 1536 is for SWB on 205R16 tyres.
Simplest approach would be to fit a speedo out of a Defender - less radical than dropping to 4.7 diffs! I have managed to fit an early RR two door speedo (~1000tpm) in to a SIII housing when 3.54 diffs were fitted to my SIIA.
Once on 253/85 tyres then a Blue drive gear should be correct.
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Is the 8274 stalling due to pulling heavier loads or could it be that the set up would benefit from a thorough service? Thinking about strip down, clean, lubricate and replace worn components. Equally, is the electrical installation still up to scratch - cable connections, contactors clean or has the battery aged (assuming second battery) so as not to deliver full current/voltage?
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There is no simple answer as much depends on the geometry of the tubes / load path. In some instances the twin tube design may be significantly stiffer than a single, while in others there may be no appreciable difference. Formal calculation against the design / perceived load cases will give you a clearer understanding.
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Aarhus (Denmark) to Buxton, via Hamburg and Calais, in a 300Tdi 110 CSW. Done as a 960 mile overnight run, with occasional breaks to refuel or rest. Not that uncomfortable a journey really.
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I'd look at the dip/main beam switch on the steering column. Either a poor connection internally or a broken wire.
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Attached is an old flyer, dating from 1992, from Watson & Turner for the M&D conversions in RRC & Defenders.
I had the 3 litre (HA) wastegated turbo in a 1985 3 speed auto RRC. Pulled much better than a 200Tdi and was good fun to drive.
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Surely triple-lining cuts the load on any given bit of cable down to 1/3rd of the total?
Correct
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My Overfinch 570 HSi RRC reputedly cranks out 330bhp from a 350ci Small Block Chevy. Brakes are standard 1992 calipers, ABS, braided hoses, cross drilled and grooved discs with Mintex pads. Braking has never been an issue - even when driven like it's stolen!
Advantage is that standard wheels still fit.
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Approach the problem from the other direction - which speedo gives the correct reading with the gearing you have?
Turns per Mile = 63360 / PI / Wheel diameter inches * diff ratio / speedo drive ratio
TPM is the number of turns the speedo cable makes in a mile.
e.g. for a 88" LR on 6.00x16 tyres TPM = 63360/3.1415927/28*4.7/2.2 = 1538.8
The TPM value is usually marked on the face of the speedo, around bottom dead centre. Standard values for Series LR speedometers are 1408 (7.50x16), 1504 (6.50x16) & 1536 (6.00x16). Early Range Rover Classic used 1152 and Defenders are around 1000. RRC and Defender mechanisms can be fitted in to a Series speedo housing with a bit of thought.
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Recollection is 2.2 turns of the propshaft flange / handbrake drum gives one turn of the speedo drive.
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Is there enough material around the holes in the manifold to take Helicoils and refit the studs?
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Got to be worth an ask. Wouldn't know the going rate, but it isn't a major job to fit the screen.
Anything else to supply? - copious quantities of brews & biscuits / cake?
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Rubber spacers were fitted to my late 94 Defender 300Tdi when I bought it at 2 years old. They have failed several times and steel spacers are now fitted.
Floppy Gearshift, Getting Into Gear Hit and Miss
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Could be worth removing the lever turret as underneath this is a selector which fits on the end of the selector shaft (running forward in to the main box). This is locked to the selector shaft by a grub screw. I have had this come loose and give similar symptoms. Requires a bit of fiddling with an Allen Key to tighten.