DaveSIIA
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Posts posted by DaveSIIA
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Is there much radial play on the shaft through the turbo? Check by feel with the inlet hose removed, engine off. If so, new turbo not in the best of health.
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Possible air getting in to the fuel, retarding the injection a touch too much while cold? Could be anywhere from inlet of injection pump back to tank. Would be worth checking unions on the lift pump, fuel filter and sedimenter (if fitted).
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I've had to unblock the "bubble ejector" a couple of times on my 300Tdi, so would check both branches (& pipes) are clear - no cost quick check.
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Did the old propshaft come off easily or did it require a bit of compression to ease off off the diff flange? It's not uncommon for the transfer box position to float a little if the gearbox has been off its mounts for clutch work, etc.
Fully compress both propshafts and lay them side by side to compare length. Do the same when extended. They should be similar.
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Yet another lane to drive once more, before the order is enforced!
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As noted above, it should run to 60+ on standard series gearing if the engine is set up correctly. Only doing 40 in a Defender and struggling beyond may indicate that all is not well. The 2.5 N/A diesel is not the quietest of engines, but should haul a 110 up to a noisy 70+mph in 5th.
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We have a similar issue with mature beech trees which drop a sticky sap in warm weather and some other sort of muck in the autumn. While not solving the problem, washing the vehicles with soft brush or sponge using Traffic Film Remover diluted in warm water makes removal of the "scuz" much easier. A quick rinse with an all in one wash/wax helps make future cleaning a bit easier.
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Standard ISO connectors (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/63/ISO_connectors_for_head_unit_in_car.JPG) would have been fitted. Possibly tucked down the back of the dash / tray at the centre. Most single DIN stereos will plug straight in.
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Ex-display bin at Halfords can yield some bargains (especially if you don't want/need the original packing & box). I've stuck with Sony and not been disappointed.
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Could be worth checking the bypass hose from the thermostat housing and top of radiator to the expansion tank isn't blocked. The three way union is known to collect debris and choke the flow.
This hose bleeds off air from the highest points on the head (thermostat housing) and the radiator. If blocked, air collects in the head/rad and the engine overheats rapidly. Although the symptoms sound severe, it's got to be worth a (free) look before committing to a failed engine.
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Attached file has pin outs, solenoid details, outline of functions, etc for 4HP22/24. Also included similar for 5HP24 if of interest.
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The 300Tdi electrics file (attached) shows fuse 3 also feeds the rear wash/wipe. Might be worth checking that (if fitted).
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Above the "C" jawed plate that engages with the striker, there is a small, spring loaded latch. All four lost effectiveness on my 110 and the door wouldn't catch properly. Simple fix is to spray liberally with a cycle chain oil while operating the latch with a narrow (< 3mm) flat bladed screw driver. It has been a long term problem on mine and they have to be re-oiled every two years or so. Better than replacing the locks though.
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These instructions should help.
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Just a thought about the mileage - see if you can get them to include a clutch and clutch fork replacement in the deal; if they have their own workshops, it'll be much cheaper for them to do it at cost than for you to pay a garage, and at that mileage, I suspect the clutch plates will be coming up for renewal and the clutch fork, if the same as on Tdi models, will be near the end of its life.
Clutch arm is cast on a Td5, and not prone to failure like the Tdi - one less problem to be concerned about.
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My experience with 11" (x2½") drums all round on a SWB IIA was that a servo made the brakes a bit fierce. Chamfering (45°) the leading edge of the front shoes made the initial bite less severe and gave a more stable balance side to side. The servo was removed as the brakes remained very sensitive to pedal loading - sort of digital, all on or all off.
The vehicle had to work for its living and was regularly heavily laden or towing a large trailer. Brake fade was never an issue.
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I found likewise that the master cylinder (vacuum) side of the servo was open on a recently fitted replacement for my 300Tdi 110.
A quick visit to the local agricultural engineers found me a variety of O ring seals (assorted sectional diameters & internal diameters) that were close enough to do the job. Selected the one that fitted best and installed it with a smear of silicon grease. Braking greatly improved for no great cost.
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Have you checked the earth lead from the battery, via the chassis tag to the gearbox? The tag to the chassis can work loose under vibration and give a poor earth to electrical equipment grounded through the body, while maintaining a good earth to the engine/gearbox for starting. Will give similar symptoms those described.
Quick check is to clip a jump lead from an earth point on the bulkhead to the negative post of the battery and test radio, lights, etc.
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Have you checked the O ring seal between the master cylinder and the servo? A leak here would slow recovery of the vacuum in the servo.
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Is the new actuator also 5 wire? If so, it should be possible to splice the wiring to the correct pins of the original connector.
Also, is the new actuator a direct replacement for your orginal unit (i.e. a RRC unit) or a generic CDL unit. The latter may involve a fair bit of messing about to get it to operate the linkages correctly.
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It was from HSL.
The BV206 has a distinctive sound when heading down the road, get to hear/see it a few times when working from home. Appropriate vehicle for todays weather.
Conditions not bad enough to stop the postman in his little red van though.
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As the abbreviation of the méme goes: POIDH!*
Matt :-)
*Pictures Or It Didn't Happen
It's not that infrequent a visitor to town, typically on a fuel run. Will have to get some happy snaps next time I see it go past.
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I would go front for traction, braking & steering. Also, engage diff lock.
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Hagglund BV206 cruising the streets of Buxton.
Classic Battery light staying on.
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Can you disconnect the wire for the warning light from the back of the alternator to isolate a wiring fault? Switch the ignition on (no need to start the engine)- warning light should be off (if on then suspect a short somewhere in the loom). Earth the warning light cable at the alternator end and the warning light should come on. If you can control the warning light this way then the fault is in the alternator.