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MattMatt

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Everything posted by MattMatt

  1. I by passed mine as well - there are fiddly little 5.5mm bolts on the plate and no room to work if you are trying to clean everything up nicely. Other option with to take the whole throttle body off and do it properly. Lot of time required for that.
  2. A mystery solved then. It's a different adapter. I notice someone wants £150 for an SD1 flywheel on Ebay I couldn't be arsed chopping up the old bell housing so have got another adapter plate off Ebay while I was there. Anyone want a conversion ring for an SD1 flywheel? It's going spare
  3. Here - you can see it's a bit thinner. It doesn't fit over the flywheel but about 6mm
  4. Cool - thanks for the reply. I thought I had the wrong adaptor ring for a minute but I just tried an old 90 clutch and is is fine. I already have a drilled flywheel. I will have to shim out the adapter plate I've got as someone has obviously machined it down for some reason - I've and old V8 bellhousing somewhere so I take a disc cutter to it and make a distance ring. The engine mounts will be made up in situ as I believe it will need to slight to the offside for the manifold to cleat the chassis
  5. Sorry to resurrect and old thread but I need a little bit of help The 200TDi is out of the 88 leaving the LT77 (long stick with short bellhousing) in place. The 3.9 V8 is waiting to go in with a Series v8 conversion plate in between but I've run into a problem...... The conversion plate seems to be too thin - it binds on the fly wheel and won't bolt up to the engine. I think maybe someone has skimmed it for some reason. Can anyone with a conversion plate just measure how thick is should be please????? What clutch housing are people using? The rangy one seems very big
  6. It will go into and 88" no problem. I've an 88 coiler and the prop is short. I've cut and rewelded the mounting on the rear axle (RRC) so the nose points up slightly - this gives me a slightly straighter line for the prop and has all but eliminated the binding issue.
  7. Had to get it sorted at garage as I ws away this week. They had to change the whole lot in the end. Fixed now though
  8. My D2 jammed it's steering lock in a car park when SWMBO was shopping, the key goes it but won't turn at all - it's never done it before and the AA said they haven't had one lock/jam before either. It's now on the local dealers forcourt waiting for Monday morning. Has anyone else ever had this problem or is it just a one failure?
  9. Yea you are right - apart from one or two studs the pattern is the same. I just thought I'd have a go at making one The manuel gearbox from a rangy 3.9EFi - is that an R380?
  10. When cruise is engage on my Disco2 it tends to surge. It accelerates then drops back then goes again - it's not a lot but it is a little annoying. Has anyone else had this or knows what might fix it - nothing shows up on the OBDII.
  11. Steve Parkers downpipe is the best really - I made up my own from a KwikFit parts bin raid but it never worked particularly well so I bought one of Steve's orginal down pipes for the 90 conversion and modified it, few ago that was. Steve actually came down and looked at it before he designed his own. The original Series exhaust pipe is small and the silencer will restrict the gases getting out of the engine quite alot. It is a completely different design to the 200 I think so may best to change it (or just leave it out).
  12. Henry - keep us posted on what you decide. I have just aquired a RR V8 3.9EFi with man g/b that I wanted to drop in to my series (200TDi/LT77) so it would be good to know how you get on. Has anyone got drawing or a description of their home made adaptor plate for a V8 to (short) LT77? I'd like to know how much work was involved and what you actually made it out of
  13. That was a long time ago Jericho - we're not that bad!!!
  14. Well it was the rad - Swiftly removed and taken to a specialist in Melksham who showed me just how heavy my old clogged up one was compared to new one. Half the weight! A new one is now installed and she runs beatifully Thanks for you help
  15. Cheers - I will get it checked out
  16. Viscous fan? How do I check that? I think I remember it going round!!!!
  17. OK - bear with me cause you need to know the whole story. So, I bought a 2003 D2 V8, gas converted. On the way home it got hot and I stopped to let it cool down. On again and it was fine until a hill appeared then it got hot again so I reduced speed and it stayed hot. Finally it went into the red so I stopped again allowed it to cool down and limped home The engine was professionally rebuilt 20K ago with new top hat liners etc but I had it pressure tested and the coolant checked like you do but that came back all ok, so I'm confident it was not the block or a head gasket. The bleed screw on the top hose was leaking so that was changed for a brass version (much better) and a few other hoses were tightened or new clips put on to make sure. While I was there I had the thermostat off and checked that it was opening at the right temp - all ok. Finally I checked the rad and couldn't get water through it - AH HAH - found the problem. I flushed the rad with proper flush stuff and a big lump of blue spongy gunk came out and now I can get water through. I flushed the rest of the system to make sure, filled it up with new OAT and took it for a blast for 20 mins in sport mode. The temp stayed right in the middle SWIMBO took it from Swindon to Newbury the next day and reported no problems. Around town it never strays from right bang in the middle. Sorted the problem I thought. Went to Leamington yesterday - 2 hour drive. The temp started to rise to 3/4 going up a hill but dropped back down again later on. This happened loads of times but when I checked the coolant later there was not loss at all. Today around town it is fine. Two things I think may be wrong but I need someones advice before I go any further:- The rad is still partially blocked and I might as well change it and have done OR the LPG is set up so badly it is making it run hot (but wouldn't it always run hot not just under power) So the question is - has anyone else had this problem or got some advice on how to proceed? All help will be gratefully recieved!!!!!!!!!
  18. Guys PLease keep this post going - I'm just getting the plans together to do mine so would be very interested in sharing ideas. I've already got a 200TDi and LT77 in the Series (lovely Designa chassis so all the holes are predrilled for the g/b etc) but I'm hankering after the V8. I would want to use the LSE 4.2 or maybe the 4.0l p38 but I'm undecided on auto or manual I'm going with Megasquirt as well!!!! Should be a load of fun
  19. It does look close doesn't it but the picture is very deceiveing. In actually fact there is a good 6-8 inches. I haven't hit it yet!!!!
  20. Ok - if I can get these pics to load you should have some idea Bear in mind I have an 88 chassis made up to accomodate coil springs and RRC axles/diffs. I love this chassis as it has all the holes and brackets drilling so the builder can do/fit whatever he wants. I f you look at the gearbox mount you will see the bracket to hold the removeable xbar for the series g/box. You can also see how steep the propshalt is angled. I am toying with dropping the gearbox mount down a fraction so the rear of the gearbox will be slightly lower, or shorten the tie bars, or relocate the axle brackets, or.......you get the drift
  21. Too dark now - I'll get underneath it tomorrw and post some pics I am very lucky in having a Designa Chassis so the holes for the defender gbox mounts were already there. You'll see it from the pics
  22. I run a defender LT77 in my series (with a 200TDi). The rear prop was made up by a company in Wolverhampton is very short and so it does give a few problems - the angle of the UJs means they wear out quicker and the whole thing vibrates if not under load. The front prop was also made up at the same time. I had to "sculp" a notch in the cross member to get it through but it works very well I post some pics if you want
  23. I wasn't that impressed either and I haven't been before. Easily done in half a day so I don't know what all the weekenders did for the rest of the time Did the inter' offroad in the afternoon and got stuck in a 1.5 hr traffic jam. Not complaining though as we had a good chat with the group that was around us. Anyone own up to the holdup btw?
  24. It cleared bulkhead fine, it hit the chassis rail instead. I had to really mod the bend to get it too fit and then make a new bottom bend to hook up with Steve's exhaust. Looks great now though and I have a 'proper' TDI silencer. I just about to add an LT77 now
  25. Doesn't fit the series without mods although he took a copy of the one I did for mine and was going to market it. Don't know if he did though Sorry no, the steering box gets in the way - you have to split the intercooler from the rad and put it infront somewhere (there is room). Throw away the fan and cut the boss off , replacing with an electric one to give you the space. Use a 300 intercooler too - less cutting and welding.There's lots of threads on the forums about doing this conversion - it's not that bad.
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