MattMatt

Do you mean a lower turbo from a Disco? A flexi pipe from the front of the turbo pointing forward should miss the alternator etc. It can them be routed up to where ever you wish to mount the air box. Mine was on the top of the housing using some fabbed brackets

Defo different - why would you do that?

IT could be the Dizzy. I had problems for a while which sounded like fuel but ended up being bent advance retard springs. If you have the 35DM8 dizzy you can just see them through the base plate. Be very careful if you remove the rotor cap as pulling it up can bring the spindle with it and bend/dislodge the springs - which was my problem.

Like you HR, I have heard these stories to - they mainly seem to stem from the fragile electronics mentioned in my first post. A colleague had the electronics go which stopped the pump and cooked his engine however that was traced back to a blown fuse on another circuit. Mine just stopped working - power was getting to the board but nothing else. MAWS insisted I had wired it up wrong after a fuse box change (which I hadn't) which is why I suggest the control box remains in view. This gives you much more info on what the system is doing. I understand the new boxes have been upgraded Having said that the basis of this system and the German one mentioned has loads of advantages. The pulsing pump at start up does greatly improve the warmup time particularly if you remove the thermostat and the variable pump speed does keep the engine at the optimum temp you set, seemingly in any conditions. IMHO any engine that either is built for performance or situations like a low speed trial or winch event should have one of these. I have a EWP 115, Another person I know has a EWP80 on the same type of engine and is equally happy with his....... BTW. I had to fit a small boost pump (from a Merc I think) for the heater.

I run one on the Jag 4.2 and it does a good job - ticking over in loads of traffic through France and it stayed just over 85 the whole time while all those around me were starting and stopping to prevent boil over. Jags can suffer from heat retention in the head if stopped while hot so the EWP keeps pumping after the ignition is switch off - allowing cool down in a sort of protected way. In the end I replaced mechanical pump with a plate and spigot - I found retaining it impeded the water flow. BUT... The electronics seem to be fragile - mine went just after two years although MAWS did supply another 'at cost' in an act of compassion. If you connect the Kenlows it auto tests them at startup - this annoys me as I can't hear the fuel pump ticking. The remote warning light is next to useless - it's meant to tell you different things but I can't remember them all. Better to have the box of tricks visible so you can keep and eye on things. Having said all that I would fit one on the V8 if I used it more. Aussie racers seem to use them exclusively.

All done so many thanks to the contributors, advisers etc. I remade the front pipes so they were arranged as per the original RRC, checked the pressure failure switch but couldn't find anything wrong and finally filled and bled the system. Now the brakes feel hard and up to spec

Ahh - someone is a little more patient than I am. My wife was doing the pumpy(?!!!) thing and it was cold and wet so I didn't want to leave her there too long. I will try again tomorrow with all the advice given here put into motion - tell you how a get on..........

How do you do that? I have a compressor but won't that blow it apart?

Yes I did initially but it doesn't seem to make any difference either way. I have just had a thought about the brake failure switch. If the shuttle has seized in one postion could this be the problem?

Any help would be appreciated eventhough I don't have an RRC but the brake system on my Series coiler are from an RRC hence the post in this forum. It has the early AP master cylinder with primary and secondary circuits but I can't get pressure in the front system. The brakes were working fine but I had a piston in the front caliper seize so replaced the them in both front calipers with Bearmach stuff. After that when trying to bleed them I could get no pressure in the pedal so I assumed the master cylinder (new a few years ago) had gone. The bores seemed perfect so I replaced the seals firstly with B***part stuff (didn't fit well - jammed) but then with a kit from Rimmers. I get good pressure in the primary circuit but virtually nothing in the secondary circuit (furthest from the servo). Opening the bled valve and pumping the pedal slowly results in fluid going back and forth instead of pumping through. Bleeding in the normal way I don't get much fluid coming through. There are no fluid leaks either from the master cylinder or calipers and I have triple checked the master cylinder seals and springs are assembled correctly I have tried everything I know and it's not working. Any ideas what could be wrong? BTW both front brakes seem to be connected to the secondary circuit and the rear to the primary instead of the conventional way but they worked perfectly before for many years

From what I remember (mine has a V8 now) the 300tdi intercooler fits better as both connections come out of one side whereas a 200 has one out of the top in the middle which is a pain. On a series you can fit it infront of the (200) radiator with a bit of adjustment. That means you retain the series front end. I have pics somewhere I think

Ignore this - I wrote something stupid, edited it but can't work out how to delete the post completely.

Designa Chassis. There are very good - I have one on my series running early RR axles. I've had different gearboxes/ engine combinations from stock series to 200tdi and now V8, from standard series box to LT77. Every time the bolts holes have been there to suit, never had to drill or modify apart from letting in a piece in the cross member to allow the front prop shaft through with the LT77. It saves you loads of time and effort and will pay for itself - I've never regretted it!

Question Rob Are the spring mounts lowered? You have added box section on the underside so I assume the body has lifted compared to the axles. If not, aren't you in danger of hitting the axles on the chassis (with some wild articulation)

You wanted a piccy? This is an LT77 with Disco transfer box and a 200TDi up front Defender mounts are welded to Chassis and you can see the old bolt on cross member mounts just in front (from when I had series box) They are mounted slightly below the rail to avoid the top of the gearbox hitting the seat box. I had to 'create' a way for the front prop to go through as you can see Before you ask - yes I have a coiler. It's Series 'Designa' galv chassis - a series chassis but adapted for RR axles

The one of the left is a standard T5 14v capless with just a green rubber sock over it. The other two are neo wedges. You can get both of the internet for little money. You might even want to replace them with coloured LEDs.......very cool

Just completed this myself using a 3.9 which I had running on EFi but have just changed to SUs for simplicity. It doesn't give you much room to work around the engine and the exhaust is a complete ****. If you are using a 3.5 with the original manifolds you will be ok but the 3.9s foul the chassis on the nearside. You have to shim it up a little or remake the engine mounts. I used a 200TDi rad and got it all in without moving the rad panel forward. Use a good quality fuel pump (Facet or sim) and you won't go wrong

I've been looking for some for a long while - in the end I fabbed some up from old RRC mounts - it's abit of a hash though. Basically you have to cut them in half then weld a good size plate inbetween so the lower half is forward of the upper. I did mine a little high in hinesight as I wanted to clear the chassis for 3.9 manifolds Having said that I don't know if Steve Parker will sell you just the mounts - I never thought to ask!

Agreed - where does it get side to side strength from? Surely the whole axle could move about without the rear shackles?

So I have a coil sprung Series - Designa Chassis - Clicky Reasons - I prefer the series look, it's smaller ( for trialing) it is very adaptable (range of gearbox, engine, axles etc) and cheap to run. When I did it, DVLA accepted it was a replacement chassis and as I was using all LR parts they weren't concerned. Lastly, it is very cheap to run and insure - although I've just dropped a 3.9Efi in it so that will change. (just because I can)

If you have a later ECU (14CUX?) the wire that exits down by the MAF Sensor goes to the coil the the other wire goes back to the ignition switch. The two wires from the Dizzy go to the coil as well - if you look at the dizzy connects they are like a 'T'. The top is the neg and the leg is the pos.

Which ZF box? - one like this or something different. I have a galv chassis so don't want to go down the coiler PAS route so would be interested to know.

Sorry I didn't get there guys - Exhaust took ages to fab' up on Sat and ran out of time. It will be going soon!!!

Didn't know there was a Swindon group - might just come along.....and where is the Gas club place?