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DavidW
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Posts posted by DavidW
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Yes, they seem bizarrely standard although some of them have what looks like steering assistance.
The Merc sprinters looked very non standard.
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I'm currently in Iceland and thought you might like these pictures?
David
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I find Paddocks pretty good most of time apart from when occasionally you do have a problem and they can be a bit difficult to get hold of.
Whenever this has happened they have always sorted it out eventually.
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Removing the hiclone thing seems to be a common modification over on the Defender2 forum.
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Interested to see if this works.
Thanks for sharing.
David
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I made the mistake of powder coating galv rock sliders and have been disappointed how weak the finish has been.
On my galv chassis I've just treated the gear crossmember with mordant solution, primed and then painted which according to what everyone on the internet says, is the way to go.
Roller painting rustoleum paint has made a good looking and thick finish although I'm too early on to tell you first hand how it will last.
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I always thought on a 90 it was because you have the heavy fuel tank and driver on one side.
The springs on later 90s don't seem to be handed.
I've just put some take off 90 CSW springs on my 90 rebuild so am hoping it doesn't make too much difference.
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Interesting, the plate looks quite similar to the disco part I had (unfortunately no longer) too.
I was told they weren't really necessary, but you may have found otherwise. I think the temperature sticker idea is a good one.
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I had a disco v8 lt77 rebuilt to defender spec at Ashcroft and wanted to keep the oil cooler kit seeing as I already had it.
They said couldn't do it with the defender rear end.
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I've been doing things like this lately and am finding the 5 litre can of brake cleaner the winner.
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Before I lash something up with a bit angle iron, has anyone seen a damper relocation bracket that fits a standard discovery drag link?
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Sorry to interrupt but is there a guide anywhere to swapping the Transfer box input gear?
Thanks
David
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The ones I got form Rimmer Bros with the fitting kit for my stainless exhaust seem quite good.
The fit is fine and they are some sort of softish metal, almost like lead.
Having only just fitted the engine into my chassis I unfortunately have no idea how they will perform.
David
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Can you get a drill to the nut?
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Right, I got some time to go and have a measure.
Mine pretty much matches the measurements above apart from my LT77 gearbox is about 50mm shorter and the LT77 bell housing about 50mm longer to compensate.
I'm pretty sure the transfer box is in the right place as my original props will fit and are pretty much the same length as above.
My chassis engine mounts are in the same place as everyone else.
Before I go and fabricate some extensions for the engine mount brackets, would somebody be kind enough to check these measurements look right?
The end of my bell housing is dead level with the front of the bulkhead outrigger.
And the middle of the gearbox mount is 40cm back from the back of the bulkhead outrigger.
Thanks!
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Are you sure your engine will clear the firewall if it sits 2 inches back?
I have an efi V8 in mine which was once a 2.5 NA diesel, is also had the LT77 with a long bellhousing and my engine sits in the right place.
I might be mistaken but looking at your pics your rear gearbox to chassis mounts also seem further back.... Can it be as ash-Whitty suggested that you have the wrong set of gearbox to chassis mounts for your setup?
Sounds like you achieved what I was aiming for with my long bell housing and lt77.
The gearbox mount brackets are from the original defender chassis (lt77 with short bell housing but it for the seatbox etc) so I guess must be right? I am of course assuming the holes for the gearbox mounts on the new chassis are in the right place?
Does anyone know a dimension for one from an outrigger or something?
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Thanks all.
I'm going to make some plates to bolt or weld to the engine mount brackets to bring the rubbers forward by 2". I'll post pics when I've done it case anyone else comes across this in the future.
David
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I've heard they did use the LT77 for a brief period in between the Lt85 and the R380.
Would be interested to have look at one of those!
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I have pictures of exactly where my engine mounts are. ...
I used the gearbox mounts from the donor discovery. ..
my old set up which was 3.5 and lt77 had the engine sat 2 inches further back than stock v8...
will try to remember to upload pictures when I'm not on the phone!
Photos would be create. The lt77 with engine sat 2" back looks like where I'm headed.
Thanks
David
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iI have just gone from an old chassis with a 3.5 and long stick lt77 to a new chassis with 3.9 auto. .
I welded the engine mounts where the factory v8 ones were fitted and it all bolted up ok.
interestingly if your disco front prop is too short surely that means that the engine needs to be moved forward. .
The question is. What combination of engine and box did you have previously? ?.
if you've come from a 300 that's why you're wrong. The 300 & 200/v8 props are different lengths. .
from what I've been able to establish anyway
The plot thickens!
I hoped and expected mine to work out just like yours.
Don't suppose you have or could find a reference dimension for where your engine sits relative to the chassis or where the gearbox mounts are. I'm wondering if the gearbox I've had built is somehow 2" short?
The 90 was originally a 2.5 petrol so LT77 so the same props as 200tdi era vehicles. The new chassis is a Richards V8 specific one. The Disco was a 1993 3.9 with LT77s.
I'm also wondering if could have tried the original props on back to front, disguising the possibility the engine does in fact need to come forward and the gearbox mounts are wrong?
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Good question about the props so I went out and checked. The original 90 props fit which is good.
Interestingly the slimline disco front prop that I kept seems too short which is a shame as I think the extra clearance past the exhaust is needed.
Looking at n4s pics my engine mounts look in just the same place so I reckon I have lost exactly 2 inches somewhere in the disco v8 bell housing or my LT77.
Really disappointed as tried hard to try get everything into standard positions....
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you would be better off modifying the bracket on the engine in that case. Where abouts in Suffolk are you? I might be able to help if you need welding
I'm just slightly south of Diss. You?
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Yes, not keen to weld the galv chassis for both reasons of future proofing rust and my rubbish welding skills.
I guess I need to modify the engine mount brackets to extend them forward slightly?
It would be good to know where the v8 engine should sit relative to a reference point on the chassis in anyone knows?
Thanks
David
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Thanks for the comments.
The gearbox was built by Ashcroft Transmission for me using as a range rover v8 long stick and long input shaft LT77 which I think were actually fitted to Defenders for a short while after the end of LT85 and some bits form the disco LT77s to make it a bit more modern... In theory (so I thought) this should put the the sticks in the right places and allow the props to fit back on.
The bellhousing is the disco LT77 one which is 30cm long. Not sure if there is a different type for Defenders? This one does seems to be the right length for the 'long' input shaft and it mated ok with the flywheel etc. It certainly looks a lot longer the at the 4 cylinder one I used to have.
More photos in case they help shed any light?
Mach 5 beadlock rebiuld
in International Forum
Posted
Would there be any galvanic corrosion issues worse than plain steel if you used stainless?